Ryan
(lol)
You got that from Tommy Boy right?
Sam
1706/200
(lol)
You got that from Tommy Boy right?
Sam
1706/200
The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource
Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey. Login to browse without most ads.
V8EATER
Well-known member
quote:Originally posted by number3:
This is the current Spearco core I am using.
11" x 4" x 18" Custom piping. [/QB]Harry,
a little polish goes a long way. I've tried polishing mine this week, but can't get it shiny enough to burn my retinas in sunlight like yours. care to share your secret?
This is the current Spearco core I am using.
11" x 4" x 18" Custom piping. [/QB]Harry,
a little polish goes a long way. I've tried polishing mine this week, but can't get it shiny enough to burn my retinas in sunlight like yours. care to share your secret?
quote:Originally posted by V8 Eater:
quote:Originally posted by number3:
This is the current Spearco core I am using.
11" x 4" x 18" Custom piping. Harry,
a little polish goes a long way. I've tried polishing mine this week, but can't get it shiny enough to burn my retinas in sunlight like yours. care to share your secret? [/QB]www.eastwoodco.com ,quality metal and welds, understadn you will get dirty, and about 4 hours of time. http://www.eastwoodco.com/Department.asp?dep_key1=mfb&SKW=FBUFF
quote:Originally posted by number3:
This is the current Spearco core I am using.
11" x 4" x 18" Custom piping. Harry,
a little polish goes a long way. I've tried polishing mine this week, but can't get it shiny enough to burn my retinas in sunlight like yours. care to share your secret? [/QB]www.eastwoodco.com ,quality metal and welds, understadn you will get dirty, and about 4 hours of time. http://www.eastwoodco.com/Department.asp?dep_key1=mfb&SKW=FBUFF
Awesome thread. Nice work Whistler, Katie and CCDSM69. For those that have to remove the top support and have a saggy cover, I'm sure you could add something to the top off the core to bring the cover back up, either some rubber or a piece of aluminum welded on.
All that argueing gave me a headache. Please, this is not Tooners. Uh oh, the old lady just said we need to have a talk. I'm going to sneak out to the shop and chug a beer first. Peace.
All that argueing gave me a headache. Please, this is not Tooners. Uh oh, the old lady just said we need to have a talk. I'm going to sneak out to the shop and chug a beer first. Peace.
quote:Originally posted by Bigfoot:
All that argueing gave me a headache. Please, this is not Tooners. Uh oh, the old lady just said we need to have a talk. I'm going to sneak out to the shop and chug a beer first. Peace. I agree w/you completely, and I hope your talk went well. I think people sometimes let emotions cloud the issues at hand. This is an awesome thread that produced a lot of good info, but there was also a lot of chest beating going on (and I apologize now for any that I may have contributed).
And for my on topic content, I'm not satisfied with how my RRE Griffen/Spearco FMIC sits on the car. It seems sort of caddywompus, like it's not straight in any dimension. I used the "GVR4 specific" brackets that came with it, but they also shipped the TEL bracket by accident. This bracket attaches the top endtank to the hoodlatch, and the entire hoodlatch is removed, the core effectively taking it's place. So, I'm thinking of trying to mount it TEL style. Anyone ever done this? I'd just go out and try it, but I'm away from home right now so just thought I'd gather any opinions in the meantime. This will change the angles of the core, so I may have to shorten some of the pipes... which by now we all know will gain me at least 20 hp, lol.
All that argueing gave me a headache. Please, this is not Tooners. Uh oh, the old lady just said we need to have a talk. I'm going to sneak out to the shop and chug a beer first. Peace. I agree w/you completely, and I hope your talk went well. I think people sometimes let emotions cloud the issues at hand. This is an awesome thread that produced a lot of good info, but there was also a lot of chest beating going on (and I apologize now for any that I may have contributed).
And for my on topic content, I'm not satisfied with how my RRE Griffen/Spearco FMIC sits on the car. It seems sort of caddywompus, like it's not straight in any dimension. I used the "GVR4 specific" brackets that came with it, but they also shipped the TEL bracket by accident. This bracket attaches the top endtank to the hoodlatch, and the entire hoodlatch is removed, the core effectively taking it's place. So, I'm thinking of trying to mount it TEL style. Anyone ever done this? I'd just go out and try it, but I'm away from home right now so just thought I'd gather any opinions in the meantime. This will change the angles of the core, so I may have to shorten some of the pipes... which by now we all know will gain me at least 20 hp, lol.
quote:Originally posted by number3:
This is the current Spearco core I am using.
11" x 4" x 18" Custom piping. [/qb]OK, just to stop the arguments I've noticed something way more important, nice shirt hanging over there in the corner Harry
This is the current Spearco core I am using.
11" x 4" x 18" Custom piping. [/qb]OK, just to stop the arguments I've noticed something way more important, nice shirt hanging over there in the corner Harry
[/qb][/QUOTE]OK, just to stop the arguments I've noticed something way more important, nice shirt hanging over there in the corner Harry
[/QB][/QUOTE]
I was just checking my sanity, no pun intended, sorry guys. I can take a hint. No more facts, experience or sanity checks... got it.
Now on the shirt...
Three Rivers Stadium, 15 years old, March 4 1989, I had find my way out and back to Pittsburg 4 hours way. That was the day I truely new I had cool parents. Queensryche was the opener! http://www.queensryche.com/releases/operation-mindcrime/index.html
BTW that shirt shrunk or something
it doesn't fit anymore so I had to hang in the garage so my wife doesn' throw it like she did the others.
I was just checking my sanity, no pun intended, sorry guys. I can take a hint. No more facts, experience or sanity checks... got it.
Now on the shirt...
Three Rivers Stadium, 15 years old, March 4 1989, I had find my way out and back to Pittsburg 4 hours way. That was the day I truely new I had cool parents. Queensryche was the opener! http://www.queensryche.com/releases/operation-mindcrime/index.html
BTW that shirt shrunk or something
Ignorant people will argue all day long for what they believe in. Shorted, less bending IC piping will equal: less pressure drop, cooler turbo outlet temps, better spool up, less weight, and MORE POWER, AND FASTER ET's. Why?
Lower pressure drop due to less bends = cooler air temps going into the TB which is more dense and normal gets you more power, turbo produces less boost to get the same manifold pressure, no extra heat. Less IC/piping mass to fill up (volume of air) = better spool up, low end torque etc. Total weight of the vehicle, every 100 pounds you take out of sprung weight (weight held up by the suspension) is 1/10th off your 1/4 mile, 1lb is 1/100th of a second, every little bit helps to make the car faster, and it adds up.
There for I see shorter less bending IC piping will make more power and run a faster time then a long, bendy IC set up*. There is no way to say it will not help. But ignorant people will believe what they want.
~John
* If the same car, the same day, at the same track/dyno swapped out IC piping with the same IC and turbo set up, one being long bendy crap and the other nice short light minimal bending IC piping. But I don't think anyone will do that.
Lower pressure drop due to less bends = cooler air temps going into the TB which is more dense and normal gets you more power, turbo produces less boost to get the same manifold pressure, no extra heat. Less IC/piping mass to fill up (volume of air) = better spool up, low end torque etc. Total weight of the vehicle, every 100 pounds you take out of sprung weight (weight held up by the suspension) is 1/10th off your 1/4 mile, 1lb is 1/100th of a second, every little bit helps to make the car faster, and it adds up.
There for I see shorter less bending IC piping will make more power and run a faster time then a long, bendy IC set up*. There is no way to say it will not help. But ignorant people will believe what they want.
~John
* If the same car, the same day, at the same track/dyno swapped out IC piping with the same IC and turbo set up, one being long bendy crap and the other nice short light minimal bending IC piping. But I don't think anyone will do that.
Not to beat an already dead horse but its also what works for your setup. I HAD to go over the turbo due to the setup of the intercooler etc, etc. I am sure that if an intercooler had one more bend than another intercooler it would be more efficient etc. but not enough to go change my whole setup. Now when I am trying for that 9 sec pass thats a different story....
Then I wake up....
Katie
Katie
When I say that the shorter routing is not really that much better than following the stock routing I’m speaking from experience because I’ve personally tried both ways on my car and didn’t notice much of a difference. I’ve also seen some very fast cars that follow the stock routing. Both Victor Brant (stock routing and over the exhaust manifold) and Andy Beachely (follows the stock routing from throttle body to intercooler, but goes under the manifold from compressing housing to intercooler). I know on my set-up that I’ve run for years over the exhaust manifold that it has two 90-degree bends and one 45-degree going from the turbo to the intercooler. I decide to point the t compressor down and now I have a 90-degree silicone hose coming of the intercooler, another 90-degree pipe and a 90-degree silicone hose off the turbo. The piping is a little shorter, but I now have three 90-degree bends instead of two that I had before, this is with a the older style Spearco 2-178 core with the piping on the end tanks pointing left to right. Did I notice big difference? No. Sorry if some of you don’t agree with me, but I’m just giving my opinion because I’ve actually tried it.
What did make a difference on my car was better intake pipe off the turbo. When I switched from the stock intake to the BR intake the car felt more responsive and was much faster when I took it to the track. The intake to me lowered my times more than the bigger intercooler and shorter intercooler piping, which were all installed at the same time.
What did make a difference on my car was better intake pipe off the turbo. When I switched from the stock intake to the BR intake the car felt more responsive and was much faster when I took it to the track. The intake to me lowered my times more than the bigger intercooler and shorter intercooler piping, which were all installed at the same time.
I have to agree with doug on this topic.
We KNOW from physics that the shorter piping will help in spoolup,temp, and pressure.
What we DO NOT KNOW is exactly how much it would help. It could be a tenth and 1mph. It could be 3 tenths.
It could also be .003 and 1/64th of a HP. Apparently noone has done a true back to back, even doug.
From my experience it's not worth the trouble to worry about it. Car packaging, ease of install, and not having to change other things are far far more important than pipe length.
Ill for sure take the longer pipe routing over having to either replace or hack my radiator to fit the pipes.
If your building a no holds barred type car (#3) than you do what you want or think is best. for normall basic upgrade cars I honestly don't think it makes any differance.
We KNOW from physics that the shorter piping will help in spoolup,temp, and pressure.
What we DO NOT KNOW is exactly how much it would help. It could be a tenth and 1mph. It could be 3 tenths.
It could also be .003 and 1/64th of a HP. Apparently noone has done a true back to back, even doug.
From my experience it's not worth the trouble to worry about it. Car packaging, ease of install, and not having to change other things are far far more important than pipe length.
Ill for sure take the longer pipe routing over having to either replace or hack my radiator to fit the pipes.
If your building a no holds barred type car (#3) than you do what you want or think is best. for normall basic upgrade cars I honestly don't think it makes any differance.
quote:Originally posted by Invader:
JDM GVR4 FMIC and piping with a 2G elbow...
Hey invader, did you have to remove the fog lights to fit the jap spec fmic and plumbing or was it just personal preference?
JDM GVR4 FMIC and piping with a 2G elbow...
I have one of the RRE group buy kits from back in '99. The I/C is similar to the one shown but the top tank is flipped. Core is 18x6x3
Spearco tanks, Griffen core. It's not nearly as big or cool as some of yours, but the first Colorado 12.0 sec DSM used the same core pictured. That's well within my E.T. goals. On the next turbo car(DSM. Z, Supra, 7, one of those) I'm going air-h20.
Anyone else wonderin why this is in the tech section? I could see dimensions being in here and all.. hehe
well i wanted to see what all the dimensions people had so i could know what size to pick, and i wanted to see if the majority or people had stock routing or short routing on the piping and stuff
i just wanted to get an idea of what i should do, but, if it belongs somewhere else im sorry
i just wanted to get an idea of what i should do, but, if it belongs somewhere else im sorry
curtis
Well-known member
I don't think a few feet of air volume makes that big of a difference on a street car. If we wanted the shortest route we would be ploping our intercoolers on top of the motor and runing a set up like the WRX or the old turbo coupe thunderbirds. I think we should be happy we have room for intercoolers in the front. Some cars dont have that ability. I know I would hate to have to buy and plumb a air to water under the dash.
