transparentdsm
Well-known member
im going to say its not the fans because there the same fans i was using on my 1g and they cooled that down just fine. that car never over heated.
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overheating
- Thread starter transparentdsm
- Start date
Number996
Well-known member
Turn the engine on. Don't let it over heat but let the temperature climb. Kill the engine and go feel your radiator hoses. If the top radiator hose is significantly cooler than the lower hose, you have a circulation problem and I would suspect the water pump.
This is assuming you have removed your thermostat, if you have not this trick won't help you.
This is assuming you have removed your thermostat, if you have not this trick won't help you.
transparentdsm
Well-known member
so i have no idea HOW this happened, but i did a whole bunch of the things everyone told me to do and i ran the car after checking everything. i think it may have been a air bubble or maybe a clog opened up after the last time it was hot. i guess the car finally wants to be driven because she stayed from 200 to 219.. fans came on every time at 206 and kicked off at 203. i revved up the engine a few times and kept it at 3000 rpms for a bit and it only went up to 219. when i turned the heat on inside the car she stayed at 206 - 211 and would drop down to 200 before the fans kick off. this is with no thermostat though. im going to put it back in on saturday and try again, see if i get the same results. it's a 180 degree thermostat so those numbers really shouldn't change, right?
turbowop
Well-known member
The car is engineered to have a thermostat, so the car should be much more consistent with one installed. A 180 t-stat will only keep the car cooler if air is flowing through the radiator. So if your fans come on like stock, it will see the same temps at idle as it does with a 190 t-stat. While driving down the road it will stay cooler. And if you have a way to kick the fans on sooner (like with ECMlink) then you can really get the most out of a lower temp t-stat.
I use a 180, and use one of the outputs ECMlink provides to pull the fan relay to ground at 195. Stock the fans will come on around 206 like you are seeing now. Having mine come on at about 10 degrees cooler allows me to maximize the use of the 180 t-stat.
I use a 180, and use one of the outputs ECMlink provides to pull the fan relay to ground at 195. Stock the fans will come on around 206 like you are seeing now. Having mine come on at about 10 degrees cooler allows me to maximize the use of the 180 t-stat.
transparentdsm
Well-known member
oh wow, link is so awesome, i can't wait to get the car tuned now so i can actually drive it at full throttle. ill have to do that so mine grounds out at 195 too.
turbowop
Well-known member
You can choose any temp you want. It's pretty slick. I wouldn't go with what G is selling though. That's too low. My car stays above 180, but not by much. Anything below 180 and the ECU won't adjust fuel trims, etc. It really comes in handy at the track in the staging lanes. Launching the car and running down the track at 190 is waaaaaay better than starting out at 206+ after sitting there idling for several minutes.
transparentdsm
Well-known member
i have link, but its not a racecar, its gonna be my daily/fun car. it won't be driven every day, but at least 3-4 days a week.
turbowop
Well-known member
The colder coolant isn't going to make more power. You just wanna keep it below 206 so that you don't lose that precious 1 degree of timing that the ECU pulls at that temp. Putting anything lower than a 180 t-stat in is pretty much worthless for any application on a GVR4.
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transparentdsm
Well-known member
i even think the 180 is overkill, but im using it because i do plan on tracking the car once in a blue moon and i will probably do autocross every once and a while too. its really just mean to be driven on the road and enjoyed. i bought this car to be a cruiser, drive around town and have people look and wonder WTF? and also have a little fun with "tony and joey" in there mustangs... im not looking for crazy hp or anything. id be happy if i made near low 300's when im all done with the current setup.
transparentdsm
Well-known member
so i was sitting on my couch thinking and i just thought of a great idea for people who have there a/c removed. im actually going to do it for those track and autocross days and for safety.
im going to wire a 12v source with a 20 amp fuse then into the old a/c button then out to the fans so i can control them on my own, but no one will know it just from looking. if anyone has any ideas or comments on how they would do it different or what im doing wrong let me know.
im going to wire a 12v source with a 20 amp fuse then into the old a/c button then out to the fans so i can control them on my own, but no one will know it just from looking. if anyone has any ideas or comments on how they would do it different or what im doing wrong let me know.
Quoting turbowop:
The colder coolant isn't going to make more power. You just wanna keep it below 206 so that you don't lose that precious 1 degree of timing that the ECU pulls at that temp. Putting anything lower than a 180 t-stat in is pretty much worthless for any application on a GVR4.
Sure it will, let me break it down for you:
The overall engine temp can be reduced by lowering the valve opening temp. The lower the air temp prior to combustion, the higher level of engine output. Because the density of oxygen inside the combustion chamber increases, resulting in an increase in volume of oxygen. Since this temp is in a proportional relationship with the overall engine temp the following can be said:
Reduced coolant temps reduced air temp prior to combustion = reduced thermostat opening temp increased engine output.
Also a 154d thermostat is not worthless if you are running aftermarket ecu.
The colder coolant isn't going to make more power. You just wanna keep it below 206 so that you don't lose that precious 1 degree of timing that the ECU pulls at that temp. Putting anything lower than a 180 t-stat in is pretty much worthless for any application on a GVR4.
Sure it will, let me break it down for you:
The overall engine temp can be reduced by lowering the valve opening temp. The lower the air temp prior to combustion, the higher level of engine output. Because the density of oxygen inside the combustion chamber increases, resulting in an increase in volume of oxygen. Since this temp is in a proportional relationship with the overall engine temp the following can be said:
Reduced coolant temps reduced air temp prior to combustion = reduced thermostat opening temp increased engine output.
Also a 154d thermostat is not worthless if you are running aftermarket ecu.
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transparentdsm
Well-known member
how does the coolant temp affect the intake temp? i can understand while sitting at idle, but while moving i dont see it making any difference as my intercooler is in front of the rad and i have no coolant flowing anywhere near my intercooler pipes. i understand the increase in volume in air density, but what role does the coolant play? as in how do coolant temperatures affect the air thats coming in from my intercooler piping?
prove_it
Well-known member
He's talking about a 10 degree air temp change.......
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Anyway, WOP, I never even thought of using a relay control for the fans from link's outputs, brilliant idea. I always hated that you could set fan temp on the 2G, but not 1G.
Also using the A/C switch to control fans works great. I ran it in my non A/C car and loved the control I had.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Anyway, WOP, I never even thought of using a relay control for the fans from link's outputs, brilliant idea. I always hated that you could set fan temp on the 2G, but not 1G.
Also using the A/C switch to control fans works great. I ran it in my non A/C car and loved the control I had.
marvinmadman
Well-known member
Use a eco/power switch from an auto trans Galant to ground the fan relay.
Number996
Well-known member
Now i'm sweating because not only do am i running without a thermostat, but i've been running withot a thermostat all winter!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jawdrop.gif
Stays around 154-164 degrees withfans constantly on
Stays around 154-164 degrees withfans constantly on
turbowop
Well-known member
Quoting G:
Quoting turbowop:
The colder coolant isn't going to make more power. You just wanna keep it below 206 so that you don't lose that precious 1 degree of timing that the ECU pulls at that temp. Putting anything lower than a 180 t-stat in is pretty much worthless for any application on a GVR4.
Sure it will, let me break it down for you:
The overall engine temp can be reduced by lowering the valve opening temp. The lower the air temp prior to combustion, the higher level of engine output. Because the density of oxygen inside the combustion chamber increases, resulting in an increase in volume of oxygen. Since this temp is in a proportional relationship with the overall engine temp the following can be said:
Reduced coolant temps reduced air temp prior to combustion = reduced thermostat opening temp increased engine output.
Also a 154d thermostat is not worthless if you are running aftermarket ecu.
Sweet theory, bro. Brought to you by the guy that thought logs could be produced that show IAT temps lower than ambient by using aluminum IC piping. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif
I'm sure that super low temp t-stat has its place. But like I said, for our application (99% of the guys here have street cars) it's worthless. Driving around with such low coolant temps is horrible for efficiency and not worth the minimal gains you might get out of it. There are better ways to make power.
Quoting turbowop:
The colder coolant isn't going to make more power. You just wanna keep it below 206 so that you don't lose that precious 1 degree of timing that the ECU pulls at that temp. Putting anything lower than a 180 t-stat in is pretty much worthless for any application on a GVR4.
Sure it will, let me break it down for you:
The overall engine temp can be reduced by lowering the valve opening temp. The lower the air temp prior to combustion, the higher level of engine output. Because the density of oxygen inside the combustion chamber increases, resulting in an increase in volume of oxygen. Since this temp is in a proportional relationship with the overall engine temp the following can be said:
Reduced coolant temps reduced air temp prior to combustion = reduced thermostat opening temp increased engine output.
Also a 154d thermostat is not worthless if you are running aftermarket ecu.
Sweet theory, bro. Brought to you by the guy that thought logs could be produced that show IAT temps lower than ambient by using aluminum IC piping. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif
I'm sure that super low temp t-stat has its place. But like I said, for our application (99% of the guys here have street cars) it's worthless. Driving around with such low coolant temps is horrible for efficiency and not worth the minimal gains you might get out of it. There are better ways to make power.
turbowop
Well-known member
Quoting prove_it:
Anyway, WOP, I never even thought of using a relay control for the fans from link's outputs, brilliant idea. I always hated that you could set fan temp on the 2G, but not 1G.
Also using the A/C switch to control fans works great. I ran it in my non A/C car and loved the control I had.
Well I can't take credit for it. Me and a lot of other guys on the link forums wanted it and they made it happen. The link guys just had to add the coolant temp parameter to make it work. I think it was finally added around January of this year.
I can't use my AC button to kick on my fans without turning on AC. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Anyway, WOP, I never even thought of using a relay control for the fans from link's outputs, brilliant idea. I always hated that you could set fan temp on the 2G, but not 1G.
Also using the A/C switch to control fans works great. I ran it in my non A/C car and loved the control I had.
Well I can't take credit for it. Me and a lot of other guys on the link forums wanted it and they made it happen. The link guys just had to add the coolant temp parameter to make it work. I think it was finally added around January of this year.
I can't use my AC button to kick on my fans without turning on AC. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
