The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource

Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey. Login to browse without most ads.

Overhaul of #244/2000 New Pics. 09/25/08

V8EATER

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 19, 2003
Messages
2,172
Location
Independence, MO
On the radiator support? Jeremy, ditch it with the rest of the crap that will just be useless on this build. Less to worry bout anyway with the carbon hood.
 

jcgalntvr4-244

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 9, 2003
Messages
3,135
Location
DesMoines Iowa
Todays work....


Couchguy helping out

Wasp Nest inside the headlight ...Mad Tight JDM YO!






This is a Bunch of crap that came out of my lower fender a nice Matchbox car for all u car lovers








Glad I did this because I hate rust and this could get real bad if not attended to.



Im trying to keep everything neat and in its spot so when I put it back together it wont be a searching game.

 
Last edited:

jcgalntvr4-244

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 9, 2003
Messages
3,135
Location
DesMoines Iowa
Quote:
Jeremy, I'll come up and help you, if you give me 45 seconds to grab as much as I can!



You a very funny guy /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 

jcgalntvr4-244

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 9, 2003
Messages
3,135
Location
DesMoines Iowa
Motor is ready to come out now all I need is another Engine stand anyone around Des Moines have one they dont need for about 6 months?


I have allot of rust on the underside guys what would your suggestions be for dealing with that? use rustoleum paint on it then have it undercoated?

Anyway thanks for all the advice guys.
JC
 

blacksheep

Well-known member
Joined
May 1, 2002
Messages
15,485
Location
Urbandale, Iowa 50323
rust is like cancer - painting over it in most cases wont work. I would sand the crap out of it and see how bad the damage done is. If very bad, cut and replace metal. Else, sand the heck out of it and coat it with POR-15. Supposed to help with rust!

ABS removal is easy. What do you need to know? Remove 4ws lines as well and throw as far away as you can. Buy those welded arms from v8eater that I didnt (sorry again, Andy)

Ditch fuel tank and do a fuel cell. I wonder how rusted that mofo is?

I would re-locate cruise box from up top. Limitless options when you are doing a full re-build. Look at number3
 

rheckert

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 4, 2004
Messages
4,115
Location
Indianola, Iowa
If you are going to try and compete with #3 you HAVE to cut and fix ALL rust, otherwise it WILL show its ugly head again. Maybe not tomorrow or the next day but we live in the salt belt of america. Fix it right the first time. Just my 2 cents. If you are going to the work and expense fix it.
 

jcgalntvr4-244

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 9, 2003
Messages
3,135
Location
DesMoines Iowa
I cant really say I want to "Compete" with #3 I just want it as nice as his or close. Maybe I said that wrong lol. I dont want to sound like and asshole sorry Harry.

I do want to fix all the rust issues but I need a professionals opinion on the underside of the car. Im not sure what I think about the underside. I believe its fixable but it may set me back a few months...
JC



]

Harry if you are reading this How bad was the underside of your car and what did u do to fix it? I will shoot pics of the back tomorrow as I'm to tired to do it now.
Thanks,
JC
 
Last edited:

blacksheep

Well-known member
Joined
May 1, 2002
Messages
15,485
Location
Urbandale, Iowa 50323
For underneath - Best way is to take it all off, put the vehicle on a rotissiere and spin around. Then mediablast.... You can tell how bad rust is. If is got holes or pretty thin, time to cut and replace, else POR-15 it as you have cleaned the surface well already!
 

rheckert

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 4, 2004
Messages
4,115
Location
Indianola, Iowa
Quote:
For underneath - Best way is to take it all off, put the vehicle on a rotissiere and spin around. Then mediablast.... You can tell how bad rust is. If is got holes or pretty thin, time to cut and replace, else POR-15 it as you have cleaned the surface well already!


Correct answer.
 

Quote:
remember you dont need 9" wide wheels..... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif


duh! 10.5"
 

Terry Posten

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 16, 2003
Messages
9,009
Location
Davenport, Iowa USA
If your really going to take it down to the frame, send it off to the media blaster. I think you will find that it is 99% surface rust and there will be enough metal left to have acid dipped and re-sealed with proper undercoating. Have the rear sub-frame sent out at the same time to be blasted and it will be just fine.

Good luck.
 

Yeah, thats a bunch of work in front of you. It can be done. The real issue is that you can't see yet what you are really up against.

Don't forget the inside of any box sections.

One thing is for sure, you will break off a bunch of bolts and nuts if you don't wire brush the threads and use endless amounts of WD-40 or PB blaster.

When I used to restore classic Mustangs, on more than one occasion we sent out a car to be dipped, and it came back in multiple pieces.

Rust sucks, it is absolutely the worst thing to deal with in any restoration. It takes time, patience, and lots of $$.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

jcgalntvr4-244

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 9, 2003
Messages
3,135
Location
DesMoines Iowa
Yeah i hear the $$ part of it but I'm going to stick through it and do my best .

Anyway the motor/Transmission are out of the car.





It was the easiest motor trans pull i have ever done almost to simple. Its slowly coming along.



Time to pick a place to send this paperweight to for a rebuild.
 
Support Vendors who Support the GVR-4 Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Recent Forum Posts

Recent Classifieds Listings

Top