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Oil pan replacement advice/top tips?

turbowop

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 29, 2001
Messages
11,975
Location
Yakima, WA
Quoting blacksheep:


Hoping he has tranny jacks or something to hold the tcase and shaft up.



You won't need that. Just slide the xfer case off the driveshaft. Keep the back part up and lean it against a wall while you do the rest of the job. You can let the driveshaft hang there since it's only a u-joint.
 

raptorWagon

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Joined
May 17, 2007
Messages
2,828
Location
Oak Harbor, WA
Quoting blacksheep:
Interesting - gray RTV is all I need? I figured there would be a gasket and rockauto showed it for the turbo option.



FSM even states to only use a sealant. True they sell one, but doesn't mean it was originally required either lol.
 

holeshotmoe

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Apr 7, 2005
Messages
1,296
Location
VA
You might want to check the pan for warp-age once you get it off and cleaned. Lay it on a flat surface like a glass tabletop so you can verify the mating surface is not severely bent as a result of the hit or jack-lift you mentioned. Also check around and between the bolt holes for stress cracks...which is what caused mine to leak.
 

blacksheep

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May 1, 2002
Messages
15,485
Location
Urbandale, Iowa 50323
I ordered a new pan, holeshot. RockAuto has them for 67 shipped in the US with the discount code posted on here. I don't want to deal with another leak, so I figured I might as well replace the pan.
 

holeshotmoe

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Apr 7, 2005
Messages
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VA
+++ on new pan. It's not too bad a mission. Ha, just remembered, wear glasses or goggles so when gravity causes the occasional drip of oil or grit to fall it doesn't go in your eye /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
 

blacksheep

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Urbandale, Iowa 50323
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif I always grab goggles gloves and stuff and half way thru whatever I am doing - I realize I have worn none of them and am a filthy mess!
 

G

Staff member
Joined
Feb 24, 2004
Messages
8,896
Location
zompton
This is the stuff you want. click Toyota sells a few different sealants. The orange is for transmissions. This is the one you want for oil. Also look in the service manual and you will see the two shorter bolt locations.
 

prove_it

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Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
Everyone has their own opinion on "bonds". I love hondabond, (it's free for me) used it for years. Still cures and seals in an imperfect area. Key is to let it sit for an hour or two to let it semi harden.

And yes, never never ever use an oil pan gasket. Also when you apply the rtv, do NOT overdo it. Too much can break off inside the pan and clog up the pump. You barely want it to oooze out when tightening.
 

blacksheep

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Joined
May 1, 2002
Messages
15,485
Location
Urbandale, Iowa 50323
20130524_082536.jpg


My poor old pan... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
 

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
Staff member
Joined
Mar 5, 2001
Messages
10,991
Location
Michigan
Git-r-done?

I actually did this same job yesterday as I was putting the head back on. Also a Spectra pan.

Two issues- the stupid drain plug was a 13 mm head. Sorry, no go on that. I put a stock type back in as thankfully it was the same thread.

Had a hard time getting the oil drain tube to attach to the pan as the threads were a problem. Not sure if it was just paint in there or what, as I had to tap them slightly to get the bolts started.
 

4G63_GSR

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Joined
Jan 22, 2003
Messages
853
Location
wis
doing mine this weekend too! about 180 miles on my motor and it's leaking tons under pressure!
 

460GVR4

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Jan 30, 2012
Messages
87
Location
tacoma, wa
Wish I read forums for this info, 4 years ago when I assembled my motor I assembled pan gasket according to the manual and used RTV with gasket; she has leaked ever since. Good thing the motor never ran more that 2k miles since then so I have a nice oil catch under my pan.
 

G

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Feb 24, 2004
Messages
8,896
Location
zompton
What manual says use a gasket??????????? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif
 

ktmrider

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Sep 10, 2007
Messages
3,128
Location
Tempe, AZ
Quoting iceman69510:
Git-r-done?

I actually did this same job yesterday as I was putting the head back on.

+1 hope it went well.

Used my HondaBond for the engine redo. Got under the car last night to check on things, not a drop of any engine fluid to be found! Probably a major jinx but hell who's gonna believe a 6-bolt 4G63T No Leakie story anyway LOL.
 

blacksheep

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May 1, 2002
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15,485
Location
Urbandale, Iowa 50323
Quoting iceman69510:
Git-r-done?

I actually did this same job yesterday as I was putting the head back on. Also a Spectra pan.

Two issues- the stupid drain plug was a 13 mm head. Sorry, no go on that. I put a stock type back in as thankfully it was the same thread.

Had a hard time getting the oil drain tube to attach to the pan as the threads were a problem. Not sure if it was just paint in there or what, as I had to tap them slightly to get the bolts started.



No, Icee. Buddy has been busy and so no chance to get to the lift. I noticed the drain pan had some weird bolt on mine. I will post a pic. Also, noticed the threads for the return line seemed bad and one bolt hole seemed all crooked and set back. I am nervous the return line will not line up well to it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
 

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
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Mar 5, 2001
Messages
10,991
Location
Michigan
I had a leak from the return tube flange- I suspect it is not completely flat. Coming right out of the bottom middle. I drained the oil back out and tried a bit of rtv to seal it. Didn't have any more gaskets to try doubling them ( don't scold, I thought I did, turns out there were oil pickup gaskets).

Have to pour the oil back in yet to retest.
 

blacksheep

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May 1, 2002
Messages
15,485
Location
Urbandale, Iowa 50323
Ok, I started on this project. I want to provide my experience thus far for noobs who try and do it. I am a noob and if I can do it, anyone can. I am taking my time and going slowly. I worked on the car a couple of hours last night.

- I removed the support arm that runs under the car first. I took off the 2 plastic clips that hold the splash guard and then the bolts. Note the bolt type and lengths. They are 6 in total and differ.
- I dropped downpipe and most of exhaust. Slid them off the hangers. Set it aside and pushed away as far as I can towards passengers side.
- I then un-did the 2 14mm bolts holding the drivers side axle to the whatever.
- I drained the oil at this point. I also took oil filter off as I wanted to check if I had leaks from the Oil Filter Housing.

So, I have questions:

1) I am going to try and remove the tcase without draining it. Do I need to undo the driveshaft at the first carrier bearing to help it slide in and out and give it side to side play? I am trying to understand that even if I undo the t-case, will I be able to slide shaft out since t-case needs to come towards drivers side first and off the output shaft or whatever its on.

2) Even with unbolting the axle, I have minimal play, I can push axle away with one hand and get the wrench with extension and socket in. I am more concerned when I install the pan. I don't know if I can get it in there and hold it up tight and right? Do I need to pop the axle out of trans to get more play or something? Is that even possible without removing/loosening the knuckle.

Also, I am going to order all new oil pan bolts. Mine seem very rusted. Afraid they will powder when the socket is on.

I know I over-think this stuff sometimes, but I appreciate everyone's help!

KC
 
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