Oil pan gasket

[Wookalar]

I think that was the difference for me then, I cant remember the gasket I was using, it was like five years ago. Sorry I should have originally specified that I have a moroso pan thus was cutting my own gasket, evidently out of inferior gasket material.

The oem "waxy" chemical gaskets are great but rtv alone has worked really well for me. Specifically the mitsu gasket sealant.

 

[manikbastrd]

Well that didn't go as well as I had hoped...Got everything apart and clean and everything...I spread a layer of Grey RTV, then put a good size bead around the whole pan. I didn't want to overdo the RTV, so I didn't put a ridiculous amount or anything. I reinstalled and torqued to spec all the way around, starting from the middle and working my way out and around. I had a decent little bead of RTV coming out of the pan as I had expected. I let it sit for a while as I reinstalled the half shaft bolts and the transfer case and exhaust. I then warmed the car up to N.O.T. and inspected for leaks. I had no leaks and was pretty stoked. I took it out to make sure it was fine under boost and came back to the shop smoking a bit. Oil had gotten all over the bottom of the pan and on the exhaust. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif I rechecked that all the bolts had been torqued down correctly and to try and locate the leak. It appears to have been coming out of the front as I could see a tiny bit of oil around the front of the pan where the rtv was making its bead, but nothing on either side or the rear.

So, I have come to the conclusion that I either gave it boost too soon and screwed up the seal, I just did a terrible job of installation and RTV usage, or I am leaking from somewhere else other than the pan. The only place I can think of to leak from in that area besides the pan, and the filter housing is the dipstick port.

Any advice or experience is greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance!
-Manik

 

[gvr4ever]

You might have missed some old gasket or you might have bent the pan a little taking it off. It does work. I got it on my first try.

New gaskets takes a lot of prep time. Razor blades and brake parts cleaner are a must. If any old dirt, oil, or gasket is left, the seal won't take.

Just gotta try it again and watch the two short bolts under the timing belt.

 

[manikbastrd]

Yeah, I was super careful with the pan and made sure to flatter it on the back side where I did a little bit of prying to get it off. I also thought I did a really thorough job of getting everything off of it before installation... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif...I guess I will try again this weekend haha.

 

[vr4play]

Turbo oil drain. Will only leak under boost.

 

[prove_it]

Either that or you didn't let the RTV cure long enough and allowed the rtv to push out. If you didn't seal the bolts for the oil drain tube to pan, then they will leak through the threads.

 

[desant78]

^ +1, once I cracked the flex part of the return line, never leaked during idle, but upon reving and boost the thing made a mess!

 

[turbowop]

Quoting prove_it:
Either that or you didn't let the RTV cure long enough and allowed the rtv to push out. If you didn't seal the bolts for the oil drain tube to pan, then they will leak through the threads.



I've done several oilpan R&R's and never let the rtv cure before slapping the pan on. Same with the valve cover in the cam corners and across the half-moon. Never had one leak. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif I'd hate to be a tech working flat rate and having to wait on rtv to cure. I also feel like it would work better installed before curing to get into little crevices and then fully cure to seal them. I mean, isn't that what the stuff is supposed to do? Smoosh into all the little hard to seal areas, yanno?

 

[EHmotorsports]

dealing with old British engines that leak new. I have had to use RTV and install the part. then let it set for 10-15 min before doing a final torque. never had a leak that way compared to just throwing it on and torquing.

 

[manikbastrd]

Quoting turbowop:
Quoting prove_it:
Either that or you didn't let the RTV cure long enough and allowed the rtv to push out. If you didn't seal the bolts for the oil drain tube to pan, then they will leak through the threads.



I've done several oilpan R&R's and never let the rtv cure before slapping the pan on. Same with the valve cover in the cam corners and across the half-moon. Never had one leak. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif I'd hate to be a tech working flat rate and having to wait on rtv to cure. I also feel like it would work better installed before curing to get into little crevices and then fully cure to seal them. I mean, isn't that what the stuff is supposed to do? Smoosh into all the little hard to seal areas, yanno?



I totally agree. Never have I let it sit for a long time before. Just long enough to put it all back together and run it. I have a feeling it could be the turbo oil return as mentioned above, I had to bend it a bit to get it out of the way when doing the pan. I have a stainless setup that I want to swap on anyway so maybe that will solve it! here's hoping!!!

 

[prove_it]

Wop: Yes you do install it immediately, however it's good practice to let the parts sit assembled with no oil soaking on them for at least an hour.

As a flat rate guy, I do this to ensure that the damn car doesn't come back in a week. I have seen it, not saying that's the issue. Once the car is done, I shove it out the door to cure and then add oil outside. It's fast and an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of something something. As a flat rate guy, you do things way different than at home.

I got my fingers crossed that when he did the pan he didn't bend and crack the oil return pipe. If so get a 2g from the dealer, and cut the holes in a slot to fit the turbo. 12 bucks versus 60 for a 1g.

 

[turbowop]

I thought you meant let the pan sit on the bench with the bead of RTV curing before installation. Somebody else mentioned that and I assumed you meant the same thing. It takes me an hour to put the rest of the car back together and get it back on the ground before I put oil in anyway, so if you're faster I can see being able to just push the car out of the way to work on other jobs while the RTV cures. Makes sense.

 

[gvr4ever]

Letting the RTV get a little tacky before installing isn't a bad thing (15min). A very thin layer with gaskets help hold them in place when installing difficult parts like the water pump. I'd imagine if you let it setup too long before using it, it might not work right.

 

[manikbastrd]

Quoting prove_it:
Wop: Yes you do install it immediately, however it's good practice to let the parts sit assembled with no oil soaking on them for at least an hour.

As a flat rate guy, I do this to ensure that the damn car doesn't come back in a week. I have seen it, not saying that's the issue. Once the car is done, I shove it out the door to cure and then add oil outside. It's fast and an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of something something. As a flat rate guy, you do things way different than at home.

I got my fingers crossed that when he did the pan he didn't bend and crack the oil return pipe. If so get a 2g from the dealer, and cut the holes in a slot to fit the turbo. 12 bucks versus 60 for a 1g.



Actually, I would prefer you cross your finger that I DID crack it because, as I mentioned above, I have a stainless braided line that I was going to install anyway, I just didn't have the gaskets. So I am definitely hoping it's just the line that way it's an easy fix...

 

[strokin4dr]

Make sure to rtv the oil return bolts and also all oil pan bolts as stated previously.

Also, check the front of the block above the oil pan (behind the turbo) for any sign of a leak. I thought my pan was leaking before and it turned out to be coming from the lower middle exhaust manifold stud that sits in an oil galley. Make sure to rtv that too! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[manikbastrd]

I feel like RTVing an exhaust manifold stud doesn't make much sense... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif Unless you are trolling me in which case I will also fill my blinker fluid...

 

[coyotes]

it shares space with an oil passage

 

[turbowop]

Quoting manikbastrd:
I feel like RTVing an exhaust manifold stud doesn't make much sense... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif Unless you are trolling me in which case I will also fill my blinker fluid...



No trolling. The bottom middle stud goes through to an oil drain from the head. It even says to RTV the thing in the service manual.

 

[prove_it]

I learned that recently after years of wondering why I had a small oil leak from the manifold. It's a legit thing. But I'd say it's your return line. Get some gaskets and swap the stainless on. Clean everything off very well.


Also don't let RTV air cure for 15 mins, that's too long. 5mins tops, all rtv is different though, but 5 mins tops as a general rule.

And yes mark, I am damn fast. Usually have pans done in 30 mins. When you spend 400 bucks on very special swivel sockets and air tools, things get done fast. Thanks for mentioning about an hour to reassemble. Sometimes I forget what it's like to not have a hoist and basic tools. ( not bragging, but I am spoiled as hell).

 

[manikbastrd]

Prove_It you make me feel like a novice...Even with a lift and air tools (no wobbly sockets, I'm jelly) it still took me about an hour to put it all back together...I was trying to clean everything thoroughly and go slowly when I put it all back though haha