oil filter housing woes (leaks)

[toybreaker]

On Topic,

I like to use a drop of purple (extra low strength) loctite on the banjo bolts, to keep them up and tight.

A single drop on the copper washers doesn't hurt either.

The purple lock tite is the sh*t for sealing up fluid systems. It will seal irregularaties, and will still allow you to remove the fittings easily if you need to service the system again.

On the tapered plugs that go into the housing, I like teflon paste.

If you stick the plug on an allen wrench (socket style), and then paint the plug thoroughtly, leaving the end threads (towards the housing) dry. That way, no paste will go into the housing, and they'll be some where you need it to seal any irregularities in the threads.

Wipe off the excess when you get the plug in and tight, and you should be good to go.

Please note: the teflon in the paste will make the plug easier to turn, and you can crack the housing (with the taper on the plug) by overtightening things.

 

Ok guys I'm having some trouble with the oil pressure gauge fitting that screws into the oil filter housing. Port 2 seen here.

I went to the auto parts store yesterday and picked up two of these fittings. The guy said they are tapered. Whatever that means. These little suckers will not screw into the housing. What am I doing wrong? Is there a coarse thread version and a fine thread version of these things? FWIW they are not autometer brand even though the gauge and other fittings are autometer.

You can see in this photo how I rounded the old one off trying to get it out. I take it they are not meant to come out once they are in. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif



Heres the fittings, I'm using the paste that you recommended, Andre.



Heres the new OFH on:



Yes I used red loctite on the oil light sending unit. Let me know if this will be a problem but it went in pretty tight.

I just need to get this fitting in and put together the AN fittings and SS lines and then the bumper can go back on.

I also ported the relief valve. I didn't go crazy on it, just enough to make a bit of difference. After I ported it I filed it smooth with 1500 grit sandpaper wrapped around a bic pen.



If you guys see anything that looks out of place, please let me know. Sorry for the long post, just wanna make sure I cover everything.

Thanks

 

[number3]

Do you like how I highlighted the timing marks with white-out. CUSTOM baby!

 

Sorry for thread jacking, Mike, but damn that's awesome, Harry! I'm going to have to do that; reading that thing is a pain in the @$$. Do you just fill in all the marks w/the white out and then sand the rest of the surface clean, or did you use one of those whiteout pens?

 

[iceman69510]

The portion he marked is raised, not recessed. I have done this for years on my cars, both painting the timing marks and the groove in the pulley with silver or white paint.

 

[iceman69510]

On topic, taper thread fitting should USUALLY not thread in until flush. That is typically too tight. The hole diameter usually matches up to about the mid point of the male threads. Too tight just causes cracking.

Also, you are likely threading NPT (if the new fitting is NPT) into BSPT, so the fitting will be rather tight with different size and threads per inch rating. Typically into aluminum you are ok. I usually rethread cast iron with the NPT tap first.

 

Iceman, so in order to finish this I need a different fitting or I need to rethread/tap the OFH port 2 for NPT size threads?

I was hoping I wouldn't have to remove the OFH. That port 2 is a real bear to get at with a crossmember right in front of it.

Where can I get a fitting that will just screw in nice and easy without having to rethread the OFH port?

 

Regarding your Port 2, I believe as manufactured it is a 1/8-BSP which is a straight thread with a pitch of 19, that is 19 tpi (threads per inch). Your brass fitting, and oil pressure transducers commonly available here are 1/8-NPT which is a tapered thread with a pitch of 18. If you want to install a 1/8-NPT fitting in the 1/8-BSP hole it would be best to retap it, though you can screw it part way in and it will be pressure tight. Note that tapered thread fittings should not be threaded in all the way anyway. The larger ports are a straight metric thread spec which I forget. In order to run oil cooler lines I retapped mine to the closest NPT specification, was either 1/4-NPT or 3/8-NPT. With NPT the nominal size is the inside diameter of the pipe, so outer dimensions are much larger.
Mike R.

1/4's changed to 1/8's per post below which is correct.

 

[iceman69510]

I have to disagree with Mike (mj), as the small ports are 1/8 BPT or BSPT. They are very close in size to 1/8 NPT. The larger size ports (one is just a plugged hole from drilling to manufacture the part) are 3/8 BSPT. The outlets to the cooler are 16 x 1.5 mm. There are no 1/4 size ports on that housing.

I am suggesting AZ Mike that you can thread a 1/8 NPT fitting into the aluminum 1/8 BSPT port and have it be ok. Just don't overdo the torque or expect it to go all the way in. You should use some kind of sealant for best results.

I know it is installed already, but the oil pressure light switch you installed is also BSPT, 1/8 size. You can compare it to the 1/8 NPT fitting you have to see the minute difference in pitch and taper between the two.

FYI, when I installed my oil feed line coming off the OFH from the 3/8 BSPT port, I purchased a BSPT fitting from McMaster Carr because I did not like the results of trying to rethread a 3/8 BSPT port with an NPT tap. It destroys some of the crucial threads because the pitch difference is greater with greater diameter size pipe threads.

 

Thanks for all the responses guys. I think I'm having such a hard time grasping this because I don't have the fittings here in my hand to look at the differences.

Today or tomorrow I am going to stop by a couple of stores here in town that carry BSP fittings and see if I can find one that has a BSP to NPT as I'm pretty sure that I did enough research last night to know what part I need now.

 

[number3]

Quoting Qship:
Sorry for thread jacking, Mike, but damn that's awesome, Harry! I'm going to have to do that; reading that thing is a pain in the @$$. Do you just fill in all the marks w/the white out and then sand the rest of the surface clean, or did you use one of those whiteout pens?



It been so long but I think I just used the brush that goes into the whiteout bottle and only painted the raised number and tick marks. I also hit the notches in the pulley as well. They all light up real nice with the timing light.

 

[PJGross]

Mike,
The thread w/ my pic has the part #'s that I think MJ_Rosenfeld helped me fill out in the list.
My first post has the autometer adapter listed:
Oil filter (90) call outs
I'd guess you might have to order that adapter but it's worth a shot at a local speed shop.

-PJ

 

[iceman69510]

That linked post is great except for one inaccuracy (ok, two). Ports 1 and 3 are not M16 x 1.5, even though they may look like it. They are 3/8 BSPT.

Also Mike, I think if you check you will find you tapped the oil cooler in/out to 3/8 NPT, not 1/2 NPT. I had an OFH that had this done to it as well. Those two sizes, M16 and 3/8 pipe must be very close in size.

 

[Dialcaliper]

Is there a reason that oil filter callout thread was never archived in the how-to section? Seems like something that should be there.


Quoting PJGross:
Mike,
The thread w/ my pic has the part #'s that I think MJ_Rosenfeld helped me fill out in the list.
My first post has the autometer adapter listed:
Oil filter (90) call outs
I'd guess you might have to order that adapter but it's worth a shot at a local speed shop.

-PJ

 

[iceman69510]

I agree. I will point it out to the Mod squad.

 

[PJGross]

I can edit my original post to reflect the 3/8 BSPT. That was from research of the vfaq and RRE and other sites, I didn't measure those. Sorry about that.

That makes sense, though, that they would stick w/ the same threads. So, close enough to M16 to not put crap in the housing when threading them in, or should another adapter be used?

-PJ

 

[PJGross]

Quoting iceman69510:
That linked post is great except for one inaccuracy (ok, two). Ports 1 and 3 are not M16 x 1.5, even though they may look like it. They are 3/8 BSPT.

Also Mike, I think if you check you will find you tapped the oil cooler in/out to 3/8 NPT, not 1/2 NPT. I had an OFH that had this done to it as well. Those two sizes, M16 and 3/8 pipe must be very close in size.



fixed the call out post to reflect the changes.

 

Just about done. I need to run a wire for the sending unit and tidy up a couple other things.

I used staybond pipe sealant on all the fittings. I'm anxious to see how it holds up.



I tried the hammer and chisel but found that bolt cutters worked the best for me when cutting this SS hose. They bite right through it and the cut is clean.





The adapter I used for the oil pressure fitting I got from summit, autometer part number 2269, 1/8 npt to 1/8 bsp.



Thanks for the help everyone.

 

Just wanted to update this and add some info. After getting everything sealed up I had 3 fittings leaking out of 4. They were leaking from the hose/fitting assembly.

I ditched the summit brand fittings in favor of XRP triple seal "cutter" fittings. After assembling these I only had 1 leak out of 4 fittings. So obviously my technique of assembly needed improving but these seem, to me, to be a superior design over the pieces I got from summit.

Check XRP's catalog here. Beware though, its a pdf file that is 13 meg. They have some impressive hardware.

And a tip when putting these together. The hose doesn't need to be very far into the red fitting. If you have it overlapping the threads that screw onto the recieving fitting then you have the hose pushed in too far. Second, when screwing the hose with fitting onto the recieving fitting, like the guy said in this video, once you start to feel resistance when screwing it on, stop and use the wrench until its tight. I over did it a bit when screwing it on and I think thats why it was leaking.

See the superior XRP cutter version on the left.

 

[iceman69510]

Those Summit fittings are a cheap, ancient design. Aeroquip uses a slightly better design. I usually prefer Earl's because they use the nipple/cutter design which is better and newer. The XRP look very similar to the Earl's design.

I have never had a leak with a properly installed Earl's fitting.