The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource

Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey. Login to browse without most ads.

No Fuel after rebuild! HELP Please

Rausch

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 21, 2004
Messages
12,049
Location
Cleveland, OH
I'd recommend only setting it in the middle to verify that it starts and runs. Beyond that I'd def. recommend getting it timed ASAP, and run it through your favorite break in procedure. (There are many schools of thought here, so you be the judge)But, as noted so eloquently above, extended idle is not the way you want to go. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

So I haven't been able to get back over to the car because my body falling apart all of a sudden. My back is still twisted like a prezle and my freaking right knee is twice its normal size. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif The block and pistons and all of that stayed in the car (original equipment with 104k on it) I don't think I have to break it in, but please verify. Solidviper89 is selling me a black top CAS so I will be able to 100% confirm the operation of mine.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

toybreaker

iconoclast
Joined
Apr 30, 2006
Messages
3,581
Quote:

The block and pistons and all of that stayed in the car (original equipment with 104k on it) I don't think I have to break it in, but please verify



My apologies, I thought this was a fresh build. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif

Quote:
Just got done rebuilding the 1336/2000



^^^ This threw me off^^^ /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

At a 104k, the bottom end *should* be broken in ( /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif ) and you're good to go, no break in required.

Quote:
Solidviper89 is selling me a black top CAS so I will be able to 100% confirm the operation of mine.



It's good to have friends. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
Last edited:

I should have made the rebuild from the block up more specific. I am feeling better today so I hope to get over to the car and try again. It will be bitter sweet if it starts since it has to come back apart anyway. The front case crank seal is leaking and the timing belt (brand new) has developed a 360 degree fingernail deep groove in it (don't ask how, it was simple mistake). So if she does start then I will have to kill it right away and wait for the parts to come in. Just as a foot note, the HX35s are a mother loving biatch to install.
 

Well all you have to do is bring your self back up here and hang on to something.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Rausch

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 21, 2004
Messages
12,049
Location
Cleveland, OH
Quote:
The front case crank seal is leaking and the timing belt (brand new) has developed a 360 degree fingernail deep groove in it (don't ask how, it was simple mistake).

Oil pan bolt ?
 

The oil pan bolt is the culprit but is was put in after the timing cover was installed and a simple over sight. Well solidviper89 he is frying fish this weekend soooooo.....make the time and come on.
 

So i just got back from trying out some of the things you guys suggested. The ground wire made the pump, CAS, and ISC start working but I am not sure how to correctly phase the CAS. One tab has a ridge in it while the does not. The back of the cam has no specific align marks so could someone help mewith that. Thanks in advsnce.
 

jepherz

Staff member
Joined
Aug 8, 2004
Messages
7,878
Location
KC, Missouri
Turn the crank clockwise by hand until you are at cylinder one TDC. To get to this point, you'd want the crank timing mark at 0, and the cam gears will have their timing marks aligned with the dowel pins UP. (You'll have to take off the top timing cover to see this). Then, the cam angle sensor has a mark on one of the blades (the ridge you are talking about); this mark lines up with a dot that is on the housing of the sensor body itself.
 
Last edited:

cool, I can do that. Now just for my info what would happen if the CAS was a 180 degrees out.
 

BINGO Folks. Got her running today by adding another 5 gallons of gas, phasing the CAS correctly, and BBBRRRUUUMMM. Thanks so much for all of your help guys she sound freaking amazing. Now to fix the front case oil leak at the crank seal and replacing the timing belt, hopefully for the last time. I pray that this HX35 powered beauty will be ready for the first track day. Perhaps a moderator can mark this thread RESOLVED! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif
 
Support Vendors who Support the GVR-4 Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Recent Forum Posts

Recent Classifieds Listings

Top