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New owner of 91 1078/200
- Thread starter navajo49
- Start date
Jesus_Negros
Well-known member
No sorry. Just trans and a few other bits. The brakes came with the car unless Shane changed them.
Last edited by a moderator:
Jesus_Negros
Well-known member
I don't know if any rear brake upgrade during 93' but I'm sure someone here knows.
transparentdsm
Well-known member
The rears should be stock, just the fronts are different
rebelboost
Active member
welcome to VR4s! it looks like you found a real nice specimen. I hope the best for you and #1078.
Boost4U
Well-known member
That car has gone so far away!!! take care of it and if you have any questions let me know.
xuberantz
Well-known member
Cooling fan resistor, usually bolted directly to the fan.
GSTwithPSI
Well-known member
The resistor on the cooling fan allows it to operate at 2 speeds. In the stock configuration, the cooling fan uses a low and a high speed relay.
The low speed relay is activated by the thermo sensor located at the bottom of the radiator just below the cooling fan. When the thermo sensor sees 185 degrees, it completes a path to ground for the low speed fan relay and activates it. The low speed relay then supplies the fan motor with a path to ground through the resistor, causing the motor to turn at low speed.
The high speed relay is activated by the engine coolant temperature switch which is located on the water neck. When the switch sees 215 degrees, it completes a path directly to ground, bypassing the resistor. This allows the fan motor to turn at full speed.
The easiest way to test the fan circuit is to jump the terminals that plug into the thermo sensor located at the bottom of the radiator. With the ignition key in the ON position, unplug the connector and jump the terminals together with a wire or something. This will simulate the thermo (fan) switch operating. The fan should kick on. If it doesn't, you probably have a wiring issue.
See these threads:
click
click
Here's the diagram:
The low speed relay is activated by the thermo sensor located at the bottom of the radiator just below the cooling fan. When the thermo sensor sees 185 degrees, it completes a path to ground for the low speed fan relay and activates it. The low speed relay then supplies the fan motor with a path to ground through the resistor, causing the motor to turn at low speed.
The high speed relay is activated by the engine coolant temperature switch which is located on the water neck. When the switch sees 215 degrees, it completes a path directly to ground, bypassing the resistor. This allows the fan motor to turn at full speed.
The easiest way to test the fan circuit is to jump the terminals that plug into the thermo sensor located at the bottom of the radiator. With the ignition key in the ON position, unplug the connector and jump the terminals together with a wire or something. This will simulate the thermo (fan) switch operating. The fan should kick on. If it doesn't, you probably have a wiring issue.
See these threads:
click
click
Here's the diagram:
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Well guys the tranny just took a nose dive possibly due to leak causing line pressure loss?? Not shure but it is done that's for shure now hunting down a used one don't have enough flow at this time for anything else. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
So I'm parking it for the year saving for a built tranny and makeover not much help locally so far on a used trans or help for that matter so it will go to the shop for the tranny work unless I find a place close by to do the work and it needs a tune the afr's are off and some other stuff needs replacing as well. I will update as I go I'm going to go through wiring soon and give it a new look with red convoluted tubing and then move onto cleaning ic piping and intake manifold (getting the paint off).So until then....
