New Owner of 1837/2000

[transparentdsm]

fair enough, each person is different. also there is a good chance you have to park in way different areas then i do. i have basically all parking lots and driveways... id hate it in a parking garage or driving through a downtown city making tons of turns. i live in the mountains and drive a ot of mountain passes and highways. once and a while i go to reno or carson, but it didn't bother me much when i had my RS AWD

 

[GSTwithPSI]

Well, just rolled 1,500 miles on the car/new motor. I had a few little bugs to work out ( click ), but now that I've got most of the kinks out, the car has really performed well. My temps look good, my logs look good, and overall I'm really happy with the build at this point. I have more upgrades coming up soon, but I'm just planning to enjoy the car while the weather gets nice as fall sets in, and before it has to go away for the winter.

Here's a quick vid of the lumpy idle with the HKS 272s installed: click

Looking back on both of my builds, I can't help but think how much more difficult both endeveors would have been without the support of the galantvr4.org community. I appreciate ALL the members here who have helped me over time, and even some of those who may have said sh*t I may not have wanted to hear at the time. I want to express my thanks to everyone here, and especially to a few individuals:

pot: Can't say enough good things about him. He's sent parts and encouragement my way on numerous occasions asking for nothing in return, even when I was a brand new member. Thanks, Pot.

89Mirageman: Chris has hooked me up with tons of parts for probably less than what he had invested. I can always count on him for a deal, and to deliver every time. Thanks, Chris.

dsmless: A member who truly defines the phrase "pay it forward". He's gone out of his way to take stuff from his parts pile and let me add it to mine for nothing. Thanks, dude.

throughfaith323: Worked with me when money was tight, and gave me his trust simply because I asked. Thanks, Ed.

coyotes: This guy is just a bro with a good heart. He's a new guy and a promising new addition to the community. Thanks, Thomas.

jnava: Juan, the owner of JuanMart who has everything, and has helped tons of members here...including me. He's been a great help, personally helping me troubleshoot issues and figure out solutions. Thanks, Juan.

luis84one: Luis took money from his own pocket to make sure parts arrived at my door when I needed them in a hurry. He asked for nothing back, and I appreciate his generosity. Thanks, Luis

Hertz: For running this joint on his own dime and giving us all a place to bitch, moan, learn, sell our crap and waste our lives away on the interwebs. Thanks, Ryan.

turbowop: And last but not least, Mark. Yeah, we've had our differences, but you'd be hard pressed to find a member who's as consistent and knowledgeable as he is. Differences aside, he has helped me and countless others here on numerous occasions. Thanks, Mark.

 

[turbowop]

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hs.gif

You're welcome, Brett. You did a great job restoring that car.

 

[coyotes]

awww, we

 

[pot]

Quoting turbowop:
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hs.gif

You're welcome, Brett. You did a great job restoring that car.



Likewise Devil Dog. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif Your comments and beliefs epitomize what I envision being a member of this forum represents. Companionship, grabass, and an affinity for smoking muscle cars and those who buy their builds are what draw us close. You have come incredibly far with this build compared to your first and I am very impressed. I look forward to seeing where you take 1837.

 

[89Patches]

Ahh look at you sucking up /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif How adorable /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[GSTwithPSI]

Well, got some stuff in the mail. As always, I have lotz of pictures for you guys...

Crusty 3KGT VR4 brake setup!!! They are in great shape, just need a lil love per the usual /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/love.gif

Garfield aluminum brackets.

12.5" Rotors drilled/vented.

And a shot of the new rotors making the old ones look silly

Calipers stripped of all poop.

Rotors are now poop free as well.

Garfield brackets free of poop and bolted up. Of note, the dust shield has to be trimmed back a bit.

The calipers got a fresh coat of ricer red. The rotors got a coat of paint as well to keep the hats from rusting.

Old brakes.

New brakes.

I got the brakes all put back together and grabbed the wheel to throw it back on the car. Of course, it doesn't clear the f***ing brake caliper. FML. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

I'm going to need a 5mm spacer or so to clear the brakes. I thought a +39 wheel would clear no problem, but was sadly mistaken. Anyone know if a 5mm spacer would require extended lug studs?

 

[coyotes]

You can fit up to a 7mm spacer on the stock lug studs I think. you need to leave 7-8 threads left in order to bolt your wheels on safely. You could also get bolt on wheel spacers which work fine, but you can't go thinner than 1" in order to fit the nuts. I'd verify how much space you need to clear the wheels before you buy your spacers.

Looks nice otherwise. Weren't these things for sale for a really long time?

 

[GSTwithPSI]

I've always heard as a general rule of thumb the lug must be able to thread onto the stud equal to or greater than the diameter of the lug itself. I'd rather err on the side of caution, though. At the same time, I don't want to press the front hubs apart to replace the lugs. The rears wouldn't be too bad, but it's work I really don't want to do if I can avoid it. Honestly, I think I'd just buy new wheels before I did all that BS.

Hopefully someone with some experience running spacers can chime in.

As for the brakes, they were up for sale for a day? If they were for sale previous to this thread, I'm not aware of it. click

 

[coyotes]

I have run spacers, you can't do more than a 7mm spacer on standard size lugs, it needs to have 7-8 threads left to thread the lugnut on.

Bolt on spacers work well too, but depends on how much you can space them out before the wheels stick out your fenders.

I wouldn't run longer wheel studs.

 

[GSTwithPSI]

Sorry, dude. I didn't mean to come across like you didn't know what you were talking about. I just meant someone chime in who was actually running spacers on their Galant. I know there's a few guys here who have/are, I just can't remember who.

When I had 1813, I bought a set of H&R 5mm spacers and they came with a set of lug studs /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

 

[ApexHunter]

New parts look great! I think 5's are OK but i wouldn't be feeling really good about going any bigger on the stock studs.

 

[bobdole]

Normally 5mm are ok with stock studs. Anything wider than 5mm I would highly recommend running the extended studs. Also make sure the spacers are hub centric also. Ichiba and H&R make hub centric spacers for the Galant 4 lug.

 

[GSTwithPSI]

Well, I mocked up a 5mm spacer using some washers. 5mm still doesn't let the wheels clear the brakes. It looks like I'll need closer to 10 or 15mm. Looks like my options are:

-Get new set of wheels. I'm currently still 4 lug though, and my wheel choices kind of suck. Plus, I like the wheels I have.

-Swap in extended lugs and run a thicker spacer. Tons of work, and I'm not sure how much further I can space out the wheel at the ride height I'm at while maintaining fender clearance. I could bump the ride height up, but then I'll be making another trip back to the alignment shop, which I'd like to avoid if possible.

-Swap the stock brakes back in? Nahhhh.

Am I missing anything? Thoughts?

 

[coyotes]

How sunken in are your wheels from the fender lips? You can space them out minimum an inch using bolt on wheel spacers (that's as narrow as they come), then add negative camber so the wheels don't rub your fenders. I would roll your fender lips for additional clearance if not done already.

Looking at an image of your car I would say you have an inch of space to push your wheels out, but you will need to add camber from what you have in this image. I'm not talking hellastanced but enough to fit those wheels. Or you will have to get wheels with a lower offset.

 

[coyotes]

click

like these, I just did a quick search but you can find the right hub bore size for mitsubishi. Or they can be custom made for you. People use these all the time in motorsport, drifting, etc.. so I wouldn't worry about them breaking or anything like that if installed correctly. People are scared of these but many many many cars run them. I have as well and never had a problem.

 

[turbowop]

I see a lot of room for spacers and camber if needed.

As far as spacers go, I use H&R 5mm on my car all around. Not because the wheels don't clear the brakes, but because I went from my last wheels being a +35 offset to the current LM's being a +40 and I wanted the same "stance". I plan to have my wheel faces reverse mounted this winter and the pads shaved a hair so that I can remove the spacers and have the same stance but with a deeper dish on the wheels also. And to be refinished.

The H&R 5mm spacers come with 5mm longer studs to be pressed in. The problem is that the factory studs on the front of the car are already 5mm longer than the rears. And H&R only made their extended studs 5mm longer than the rears. So the fronts end up being the f***ing exact same length. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif I found this out after having a machine shop press in new wheel bearings and throw the new "extended" studs in for me while they were in there. What a waste. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif

I feel like there is plenty of meat for the lugs on the rears, but I wish there were more up front. The car has survived a lot of driving and several autocross runs with the spacers though. No issues so far.

 

[89Patches]

Putting in ARP wheel studs should only take an hour or two depending how fast you work. The time consuming part it just taking the brakes apart. I have done this twice with my car.

Pulling in the studs in take maybe 10 mins to do all 20 (Or 16 in your case) No need to take your hubs apart to take the to get pressed in, That's just a waste of time and money. A breaker bar, jack stand, some oil for the stud, some washers (I used 6 bolt head stud washers 2 or 3 stacked)a hammer and a wheel nut. Like I said takes all of 10 minutes to pull in all the studs.

This is how I did my Galant, Mr2, my old Jeep and countless others I have done this for /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif



BTW If you have the ABS rings on the front still this method won't work on the car!

 

[turbowop]

ABS is the reason I had a machine shop do mine. I retained it when I did the 5-lug swap. The rear studs I did myself.

 

[Jesus_Negros]

Just get some custom made bolt on spacers