New Owner Of 1546/2000

[marvinmadman]

Could be frozen injectors and a rusty pump/tank.

 

[strokin4dr]

^+1
I've seen some nasty fuel systems from sitting

 

[Olson]

Pull your injectors put power to them and run brake cleaner through them. 1 they will be "cleaned" and two you know they will work. go from there. Air Fuel Spark. I know you know this but there is easy ways to do sh*t

 

[turbohf]

my car had a burnt valve on 2 cylinders. and it would try to run. I think 2&3 where the dead ones.

so I would still try to verify the rest before giving up on the motor. see if the numbers come back at all.

 

[GSTwithPSI]

Ryan, the car doesn't even try to fire. Not even a sputter.

The plan ahead is to dig into the fuel system next. I'll start with the pump and tank, then work my way up to the rail and injectors. I'll replace all the filters in between.

The knocking is what I'm really worried about. I'm already planning on needing a new bottom end, so anything short of that would be a perk.

 

[GSTwithPSI]

Well, good news and bad news. The good news is I got the car to run. The bad news is the motor is still junk.

The reason the car wasn't starting was due to a bad fuel pump. I ended up pulling the supply line off the fuel rail and activated the pump. It would run, but wouldn't move any fuel. I thought it sounded weak, and turns out it was. With that discovery, I tore down the whole system.

I pulled the pump and inspected the tank and pump hanger. The tank was clean, and the hanger had the typical surface rust. I swapped out the pump with a spare I had on the shelf, and replaced the strainer sock. What little sediment was in the tank I sucked out with my vacuum bleeder, and reinstalled the pump hanger.

Then, I went up front and pulled the fuel rail, injectors, fuel filter, and lines. I swapped out the old injectors with some known good spares to ensure they weren't causing any problems. I replaced the seals as well. Next, I blew out all the fuel lines with compressed air. After everything was clean, I replaced the fuel filter and reinstalled the injectors and rail.

With the fuel system back together, I activated the pump once again by jumping the test connector. I checked for leaks and made sure everything was good to go. Satisfied, I jumped in the car and hit the key. It rolled over and fired right up.

Once the car started, I was running great right off the bat. The motor felt fairly smooth at idle, and I could only hear a bit of ticking. I reached under the hood to rev the motor, and heard what sounds like one or more of the pistons slapping. Whenever you transition on and off the throttle, you can hear an audible slapping noise. It's definitely not a rod knock. As the car warmed up, the slap got a tiny bit worse. I was still able to drive the car down the street and back, and move it in and out of the garage. The motor seems to run pretty well aside from the piston slap. Here's a short video of the slapping sound: click

In light of my latest discovery, I'll be on the lookout for a short block for 1546. Until then, I'll do some more inspecting and evaluation to see where else the car needs attention.

 

[89Patches]

Linky no worky.

 

[GSTwithPSI]

Fixed.

 

[89Patches]

Sounds like rod knock to me. What's the oil look like? Also cutting the oil filter open would tell you right away.

 

[FlyingEagle]

Rod/piston pin knock or other .... ?

Also pull the side engine cover and inspect the timing tensioner/pulley after an oil filter inspection.

If you find debris, it will indicate that the longer you have the motor running, the more debris could be lodging in your oil system up stream (cylinder head passages).

 

[GSTwithPSI]

The sound quality on the cell phone video sucks. It sounds way more tame in person. I'll try and take some video with my GoPro.

I'm pretty confident it's not a rod knock. At idle, you can hardly even hear the noise. If you're in the car, it's nonexistent. I'll drain the oil and see what it looks like.

 

[89Patches]

I diagnosed engine noise for a local that turned out to be rod knock. Sounds just like yours. Well a lot less loud than yours...

Here is the video he sent me: click

 

[G]

That sucks. Did the seller tell you the motor was bad? What was his reason for selling? I'm sure he knew it was toast but just let it sit for awhile. Like I always say there is always a reason (problem) a car is for sale.

 

[CutlassJim]

It's rod knock. Pull the injector wires one by one to see which cylinder it is.

 

[GSTwithPSI]

^Did that, and no change. Which is another reason I don't think it's a rod. Either way, the bottom end is trash. I'll pull the pan probably sometime this weekend and see what the issue is.

 

[Jesus_Negros]

I picked up a 2g for really cheap that didn't run. Once I got it running, it had the same noise. Got worse as the rpm's went up. Sound was nearly none existent at idle. It was rod knock. It only had 84k miles on it.

 

[prove_it]

Unless the bearing is completely gone and trash, rod knock is louder under load and CAN be non existent at idle with no load.

It sounds like a rod bearing is toast to me. Might not be that bad, if your keeping it stock, you MIGHT get away with a "simple" rebuild. Basically tear down the engine to clean it up and slap new bearings in it. If it just started then theres a decent chance the crank is still good.

Now is the time to decide if your leaving her stock or going to build it up to a certain power level.

 

[GSTwithPSI]

This car warrants a factory restoration. I have zero plans or interest in modding this. Possibly wheels and suspension, but that'd be about the extent of it. I doubt I'll even do that, though.

Here's my current goal for 1546: click

 

[turbowop]

All I ask is that you do JDM bumpers. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[prove_it]

I knew you'd say that Mark. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif

Next G will rattle on and on about jdm this and that you need caz mad jdm yo.

Dude, if you end up with rims, please lower it at least an inch on some springs. Don't want nice rims with a huge gap.