I had the exact same problem with a 90TSi and my current GVR4. It turned out to be the gap for the spark plugs. My Talon spent 2weeks @Turbotrix a few years back...got it back untuned. Eventually, I figured it out myself. Go back in, make sure that gap is correct. 0.028"
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Need help with a quickness *Update as of 2 July*
- Thread starter ducttapeguy
- Start date
ducttapeguy
Well-known member
Ok folks. It has been a long time in coming but I have a couple of logs for yall to have a look at.
This one is from tonight. Just sitting in the parking lot letting the G idle. I have a lovely idle surge. Annoys the ever living hell out of me.
log.2012.06.15-01.elg
This one is from the other day pulling onto the interstate. This is when I get the bad mystery sputter. Doesnt happen at less than about half throttle or so. Even up to 15-18psi. WOT is another story. Starts sputtering at roughly 5-10psi.
log.2012.06.13-01.elg
Let me know what yall think or if you need a log of a specific pull and what you want monitored.
If yall cant see the logs please tell me how to share them. I got dropbox and did the whole share with everyone thing. I can be pretty retarded at the interweb sometimes.
Tyler
This one is from tonight. Just sitting in the parking lot letting the G idle. I have a lovely idle surge. Annoys the ever living hell out of me.
log.2012.06.15-01.elg
This one is from the other day pulling onto the interstate. This is when I get the bad mystery sputter. Doesnt happen at less than about half throttle or so. Even up to 15-18psi. WOT is another story. Starts sputtering at roughly 5-10psi.
log.2012.06.13-01.elg
Let me know what yall think or if you need a log of a specific pull and what you want monitored.
If yall cant see the logs please tell me how to share them. I got dropbox and did the whole share with everyone thing. I can be pretty retarded at the interweb sometimes.
Tyler
On dropbox, when you log in and see your list of folders there will be a link symbol (looks like a small chain) next to the folder where you have whatever files you want to share. If you click that, it will open a window that contains the contents in that folder; copy and paste that URL...that is what you want to give to somebody, or post that link here so people can click or copy/paste and they should be able to then go in that folder and either view or download those files; being these are 'special' files though,they would probably have to save them and view them on their cpu that has that program.
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ducttapeguy
Well-known member
OK. Lets try this again with a new log. Today I got a log from just after start up all the way to lunch. A little over 10 minutes. It shows idle at startup then driving through Ft Drum and then getting on the main roads and a couple of WOT pulls and then back to idle in a parking lot. You will be able to see the idle surge and maybe someone can spot the issues for my my stupid sputter.
Loggy log
Loggy log
brisvr4
Well-known member
I'd start out by zeroing out your timing sliders. I don't run the amount of total timing that you have and im on E85. Are you on pump or E85.
Looking at the timing and fuel maps in direct access I'd say that you are running way too much timing in the upper load section and it's setup way too rich as well.
Are you on the link forums? I could throw a map together for you to try if you like.
Or you can paste this one in and give it a try...
use evo8 mod1
Paste the min and max timing and Openloop max octane and min octane maps in and save.
They are in the Direct Access area.
You will need to have the ignition switched to ON to save them.
Try that and see if it helps.
Can you also log combinedFT as well please. You airflowperrev is a bit high too. but we will be able to get a clearer view of the idle surge issue with combinedft to check out.
Looking at the timing and fuel maps in direct access I'd say that you are running way too much timing in the upper load section and it's setup way too rich as well.
Are you on the link forums? I could throw a map together for you to try if you like.
Or you can paste this one in and give it a try...
use evo8 mod1
Paste the min and max timing and Openloop max octane and min octane maps in and save.
They are in the Direct Access area.
You will need to have the ignition switched to ON to save them.
Try that and see if it helps.
Can you also log combinedFT as well please. You airflowperrev is a bit high too. but we will be able to get a clearer view of the idle surge issue with combinedft to check out.
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ducttapeguy
Well-known member
Thanks for the help brisvr4!
new log with changes I made the suggested changes and the car idles a lot smoother and right around 950 RPM. It was still surging a little bit but not nearly as bad. Drove off post again to get a place where the speed limit was more than 35 and did some pulls. The car seems to hesitate for a second or two as boost comes on but then picks up again. Still have the strange sputtering sound. Ill try to record the sound it makes next time I go out and play. It does seem to get louder with more throttle, not more boost or speed. Car still isnt pulling nearly as hard as it should.
Towards the end of this 15ism minute log I tried to launch the car and it fell on its face pretty bad. Bogged down and almost died. After the pulls the idle surge came back almost as bad as before. Over all the car felt a lot smoother. Hopefully yall get some more ideas or input. Thanks a ton.
new log with changes I made the suggested changes and the car idles a lot smoother and right around 950 RPM. It was still surging a little bit but not nearly as bad. Drove off post again to get a place where the speed limit was more than 35 and did some pulls. The car seems to hesitate for a second or two as boost comes on but then picks up again. Still have the strange sputtering sound. Ill try to record the sound it makes next time I go out and play. It does seem to get louder with more throttle, not more boost or speed. Car still isnt pulling nearly as hard as it should.
Towards the end of this 15ism minute log I tried to launch the car and it fell on its face pretty bad. Bogged down and almost died. After the pulls the idle surge came back almost as bad as before. Over all the car felt a lot smoother. Hopefully yall get some more ideas or input. Thanks a ton.
brisvr4
Well-known member
Good to hear that you are making some progress now.
I'll check your latest log out tonight and will see if I can make a few changes.
Do you have your fiav blocked off? And have you done a boost leak test yet?
A small vac leak will cause idle surge as well.
I'll check your latest log out tonight and will see if I can make a few changes.
Do you have your fiav blocked off? And have you done a boost leak test yet?
A small vac leak will cause idle surge as well.
ducttapeguy
Well-known member
IIRC my FIAV is blocked off but Id have to check to be sure. A boost leak test was done and the car holds 20psi with no leaks.
Even though STM told me that they gapped the plugs correctly I felt the need to check last night. Pulled them out and they were all around .031 or .032. I changed that to .028. The Galant instantly ran noticeably smoother and leaned out quite a bit. I didnt get on the gas at all but the lowest AFR reading I got was 15.3 at idle. Most of the trip was well above that so I need to add fuel across the board now. Ill get a new log today with the regapped plugs.
Also, my alternator belt decided to fall off on the way to the gym this morning so thats another thing to add to the list. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
Even though STM told me that they gapped the plugs correctly I felt the need to check last night. Pulled them out and they were all around .031 or .032. I changed that to .028. The Galant instantly ran noticeably smoother and leaned out quite a bit. I didnt get on the gas at all but the lowest AFR reading I got was 15.3 at idle. Most of the trip was well above that so I need to add fuel across the board now. Ill get a new log today with the regapped plugs.
Also, my alternator belt decided to fall off on the way to the gym this morning so thats another thing to add to the list. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
Gizmovr4
Well-known member
voltage especially while using link has a huge effect on ignition. If the belt was slipping, the alternator was starting to go bad, or you have wiring issues (fan wiring shorting ect) it can cause all of the issues you have discribed. Are you logging voltage? If you are please check your voltage - especially when you have the stuttering issue.
strokin4dr
Well-known member
Replace your ignition power transistor unit and the problem will go away. I have a buddy that had the same issue with his 2g. After spending $$$ at a few shops and trying to fix it himself, he brought it to me.
It would break up under boost mostly and eventually got to where it would do it while just cruising sometimes. CEL would flicker or stat lit while it was happening. A used power transistor fixed the problem until he could order a new OEM unit. Good luck.
-Ryan
It would break up under boost mostly and eventually got to where it would do it while just cruising sometimes. CEL would flicker or stat lit while it was happening. A used power transistor fixed the problem until he could order a new OEM unit. Good luck.
-Ryan
Sounds like an easy fix if it turns out to be that (makes sense if it were), but what makes them go out; anything in particular, or one day they stop working, or something else goes heywire in the electrical ircuit blowing that out, etc.?
Just wondering if that's the same issue I was having after getting the incorrectly wired 3G MAS harness and if it could've blown that out somehow (it messed up my ECU ground tracing, which was fixed).
EDIT - I need tolook in the FSM to see if there's a way to test this unit, but wanted to mention that rockauto has one of these on closeout right now (check out Curtis' post in general) for ~$53). I'm going to order one to be on the safe side.
Just wondering if that's the same issue I was having after getting the incorrectly wired 3G MAS harness and if it could've blown that out somehow (it messed up my ECU ground tracing, which was fixed).
EDIT - I need tolook in the FSM to see if there's a way to test this unit, but wanted to mention that rockauto has one of these on closeout right now (check out Curtis' post in general) for ~$53). I'm going to order one to be on the safe side.
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Any update on this? Curious if it is the transistor. I saw in my FSM that you can test it by applying 1.5 V (AAA battery) to one or two terminals and getting a reading of continuity on the meter from another terminal. I don't have the book in front of me for detail, but let me know if you want to know which ones. I'm sure somebody have the Electrical FSM on PDF that they can post here for a more complete picture.
The unit is sort of a PITA to get to and is attached to a bracket that has three 10 mm head screws.
Anyhow, took mine out, but haven't tested it, but ordered a new one anyway...going to test mine later though and bet it's no good. Looking at the wiring schematic, I can see how it could've gotta messed up with the fukked up wiring harness i got (blew other things too).
The unit is sort of a PITA to get to and is attached to a bracket that has three 10 mm head screws.
Anyhow, took mine out, but haven't tested it, but ordered a new one anyway...going to test mine later though and bet it's no good. Looking at the wiring schematic, I can see how it could've gotta messed up with the fukked up wiring harness i got (blew other things too).
ducttapeguy
Well-known member
No update right now. My crankshaft pulley decided to seperate on me the other day so the car is down until I get a new one installed. Hopefully this weekend. Ill try to test the transistor today and see how that goes.
Oh yeah, forgot you had other larger issues to get it running first again. I'm in the same boat (not with repairs, but just buttoning up the last minute things to get it running again), although I am real curious if this turns out to be the issue with mine and hope so, as it was aggravating getting no boost, doing a bunch of stuff and barely getting 10 psi. On the good side, the stuff I did do got it running really smooth and strong (n/a), so can only imagine how nice and strong it'll be with real boost again!
ducttapeguy
Well-known member
Got my bigger issue resolved. Car is running again, now to track down the source of this damn sputter.
Can I get a picture of the ignition power transistor unit and its location. As soon as I figure out where it is I will test it and see what happens. Thanks guys
Can I get a picture of the ignition power transistor unit and its location. As soon as I figure out where it is I will test it and see what happens. Thanks guys
strokin4dr
Well-known member
ducttapeguy
Well-known member
Awesome. I will check that out in the AM. A little late and dark to do it now. I noticed that the sputter starts around 3500-4000RPM and it gets louder with more throttle. It doesnt increase in tempo, just gets louder. I tried to get a recording of it tonight and I will see if I can get it posted so yall can hear what I have been talking about.
Until then here is a fresh log from tonight.
here ya go
sound clip
Until then here is a fresh log from tonight.
here ya go
sound clip
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ducttapeguy
Well-known member
Removed transistor unit today. going to test it shortly. While I was under the hood I took a couple pics of some things I have questions about.
What does this little guy attach to? It was just hanging out.
Followed the wire into here. Not that it was super long, but still.
What does this connect to? Also just hanging out. I dont remember disconnecting it.
Could this be the source of all my problems? A hole on the exhaust side of the turbo before the flange and what looks to be a big space between turbo and O2 housing. Maybe cause of all issues??
How tight is the timing belt supposed to be? Are you supposed to have a bit of slack in it?
How effed am I? I have a couple of weekends left before I have to drive this car to Texas from upstate NY. I need to figure out whats going on with it. If I have to replace something or tear something apart I need to know ASAP. Thanks in advance
Tyler
What does this little guy attach to? It was just hanging out.
Followed the wire into here. Not that it was super long, but still.
What does this connect to? Also just hanging out. I dont remember disconnecting it.
Could this be the source of all my problems? A hole on the exhaust side of the turbo before the flange and what looks to be a big space between turbo and O2 housing. Maybe cause of all issues??
How tight is the timing belt supposed to be? Are you supposed to have a bit of slack in it?
How effed am I? I have a couple of weekends left before I have to drive this car to Texas from upstate NY. I need to figure out whats going on with it. If I have to replace something or tear something apart I need to know ASAP. Thanks in advance
Tyler
yeti
Well-known member
If there sillis actually a.hole.in the.exhaust.side start there..
Also that little guy in the first pic.not sure i do know i didnt remember where it.went and just.put it somewhere attached to intake mani..
Definitely if thats a hole bitch smack stm
Also that little guy in the first pic.not sure i do know i didnt remember where it.went and just.put it somewhere attached to intake mani..
Definitely if thats a hole bitch smack stm
pot
Staff member
The item in the first image is the electrical noise suppressor that attaches to the intake manifold. The item in the second image I'm not so sure but it is intact. I believe it is the fuel pump test plug.
The "gap" in your turbine housing to 02 may or may not be leaking. I do not see any residue such as exhaust soot, but a surefire way to tell is to run Seafoam into a few different vacuum lines and watch for smoke.
The "gap" in your turbine housing to 02 may or may not be leaking. I do not see any residue such as exhaust soot, but a surefire way to tell is to run Seafoam into a few different vacuum lines and watch for smoke.
