my evolving transmission issue. hard shifts at high RPM's (POST MORTEM)

[Wizardawd]

Another thing other than the pedal assembly is the 2 large 36mm nuts that are under the outer cover. Accessible while the trans in still in the car, they have been blamed for shifter walk and lock-outs. The are what apply the bearing preload to the 2 main shafts in the trasmission. Over time they will become loose as the transmission wears. In extreme cases, they have actually backed off and soon rubbed themselves thru the case.

Wiz

 

[EfiniX]

Quoting LIV4PSI:
Here is from JNZs website

"Common issue for high mileage Galant VR-4's is clutch disengagement problems. If you have tried replacing the clutch cylinders and checked for other common engagement problems reach down and pull up on your clutch pedal. If you can lift the pedal up freely the pedal is worn out. The clutch pedal lever rounds off causing slop in the pedal assembly resulting in not enough throw to properly disengage the clutch. This kit will include everything needed to fix that worn out assembly and get your pedal throw back."

Also, check out GSTwithPSIs build thread. He just rebuild his pedal assembly and took pics of the worn out parts. Once you see the pics, it makes sense why its such a common problem.



I pulled up on the pedal and it didn't budge. I pushed it in, then let it return, then pulled again. No up or lateral play at all. I also drove to the top of a parking garage (flat) and ran it up to 6,000 rpms without so much as a budge while in first with the clutch down.

Any other indicators of a worn assembly to look for?

 

[LIV4PSI]

None that I know of. I guess that's good and bad news both /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[GSTwithPSI]

I just saw this thread. I'll say that it could be hard to tell if your pedal assembly is worn with it still in the car. Reason being, the pedal assembly may feel tight, when in actuality it has excessive play. Here is a few pics of mine.

Even with the excessive wear shown in my pictures, the pedal assembly actually didn't even feel really loose. I would suggest this; Take a pry bar and place it where the clutch adjustment rod bracket meets the pedal bracket. With the pry bar in place, tightly hold the clutch rod from moving. With the rod/bracket held, grab the pedal itself and see if you can move it at all. If you feel anything at all, remove the nut that threads onto the pedal rod, and use a mirror to inspect where the rod's key-way goes into the bracket. If it looks anything like mine did, get ready to hate your life. Good luck!

 

[EfiniX]

sounds like I need to go get myself a dental mirror and a sledgehammer...

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[DynastyLCD]

off topic (sort of) because i never did this job in a GVR4, but it looks like it would suck WAY more to do a 1g than a GVR4.

Effnix, its not that bad, really. it isn't fun, but its not THAT bad.

 

[Wizardawd]

It is, first hand I can tell you. The driver's area is far more cramped.

Wiz

 

[EfiniX]

After a few weeks of chatting with members of the board, I changed all of my drivetrain fluids with Even (EHMotorsports) last Friday, and here are the results. I suppose sometimes a cigar is just a cigar.

What I did before-hand:
talked with everyone here
adjusted the clutch pedal using the online video instructions
checked for clutch play - found no lateral movement and no play when pulling the pedal up
checked the MC bolts - fine
checked the folk range of movement (thanks, Evan) - fine
checked the bell housing bolts (thanks, Evan) - tight, no movement

Drained out the old fluid. There was definitely synchro in the transmission fluid (which appeared to be old Redline RT-90). It looked like what you would expect with a 40,000mi. transmission (time since rebuild). Refilled with 100% Diaqueen Mitsu fluid.

Drained out the transfercase fluid. Also looked like Redline Light Shockproof or some variant and came out dirty, but not surprisingly so. Replaced with Redline Heavy Shockproof.

Drained out the diff fluid. This looked more like transmission fluid, but I'm sure it's whatever it was supposed to be. This fluid looked new. Unfortunately, the fill bolt was not, and had been rounded out by some genius who I'm guessing decided that since the bolt was rounded out, it would be a good idea to just slam it back in using an impact tool. Getting this bolt off was a BITCH.

And the gold star here goes to Evan, who machined down the lip of a 24mm socket so that it would clear the housing around the bolt better, worked on the bolt until it broke free, then pulled the bolt off his old diff. (he just did a 4-bolt swap, so thank goodness for that), sandblasted it, primed it and slapped it on.

I put Redline Heavy Shockproof in the rear diff.

after all of this, the shifting is much better. Still a bit notchy on the gears that were grinding before, but still a HUGE improvement. My best guess at this point is that the transmission was rebuilt, but the fluid wasn't changed after the break-in period. I'm certain that the synchros will need to be replaced one of these days, but that day is not soon.

Thanks to everyone who shared their experience and input and much thanks to EHMotorsports for volunteering a shop and an afternoon to help me out. I hope he enjoyed the tasty, rare beers I brought him!

 

[EHmotorsports]

I'm glad it's working better for you and sad that it didn't completely fix your problems. And yes I am enjoying the the last beer as I type this. Haha

 

[EfiniX]

Ok, so this guy ^^^^^^^^^

RAD

 

[mitsuturbo]

Quoting ktmrider:
Tight housing bolts are a good start.

One note, these transmissions take GL-4 type fluid. Unfortunately people put GL-5 spec oil in which "could" cause degredation of the brass internals.

I say "could" as there are about as many arguments on this topic as there are ones on alternator location. Worst case search the site for the suggested tranny fluid Cocktails that are GL-4 and see what happens. Swapped mine for Redline brand, noticed an improvement in shift quality.



The issue with GL4 vs GL5 was that early W5M33 synchros had a paper/cardboard braking friction surface, and GL5 apparently didnt get along with these synchros. It ate away at the friction material, caused it to glaze and cease functioning. I've seen it myself, and it's ugly. The all brass (newer) synchros are impervious to any issues such as this. If you haven't built your own transmission and seen the synchros that are installed first-hand, or REALLY trust whoever did build it, it's a good idea to stick with the diaqueen or GL4.