My Engine Bay- what would you change?

[BpuVR4]

Quoting PearsVR4:
Quoting MoMoVR4:
Quoting LIV4PSI:
Get a heat shield for that exhaust manifold. Your BOV needs to be recirculated as well, or purchase a proper blow through setup.

Besides that, get a non-cruise cable if you can live without it.



oh jeez, the bov never really caught my eye...the isc/idling has been the primary concern right off the bat..thanks for the note. heat shield is on my original list to get. is there a reason for the cruise cable removal or just for cleaning up space?


I'd change too much to list but if you're having idle issues I'd start by testing the coils on the isc. It's an easy test, the problem is new isc's are $135. If I remember. There's a website with drawings and instructions somewhere on the net, just search for it.



the isc was tested and results were bad. Im waiting on a forum member dsmguy to ship me one of his black isc's.

 

[IncorpoRatedX]

Did you at least TUNE the car after putting a 2g maf in?

unless the eprom is corrected for it and then you tune it with an SAFC or similar, you're hurting the car by just adding the 2g maf /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif


also, to original poster; vented BOV is definitely the idle issue

and SMIM is sheet metal intake manifold.

 

[BpuVR4]

Quoting mitsuturbo:
Quoting raptorreed:
The bpv like others mention needs to be recirculated, unless you are running a blow through setup (GM Maf) or you have converted to speed density.



Can clearly see there is a MAF under the IC plumbing. That BOV most definitely needs to be recirculated. I can't believe i missed that.

FYI, i tried running with a 2g maf at the track.. with the BOV recirculated, and without. When it was not recirculated, it added a FULL second to my 1/4 mile ET. I went from mid 13's to mid 14's. It's bad. No matter how much you might like the way it "sounds"... DON'T f***ing DO IT!



yea not too much care in how it sounds right now, looking to set up a reliable quick street car. guess the prev owner did not have this car set up as properly as i had hoped...but i've dealt w worse. if i remember right, the last VR4 I had ran a Tial 50mm.

ill put up better pics when i get home

 

[JNR]

The stock intake manifold is surprisingly pretty good from a performance standpoint (unless you get wild and/or start revving to like 8-9k) and if you want a little more 'ummph' out of it, you could always get it extrude honed (or do it yourself, but be aware it's time consuming and need to get creative with sanding/polishing tools to get up in there)...If you don't worry about EGR, the cyclone dual-runner manifold is a nice choice...SMIM (sheet metal intake manifold) looks neat, but most of them are not big enough gains to justify the cost/headaches. Problem is most of the shops that make them seem to copy from one another and don't really address the shortcomings too well, or think beyond what the other is doing. I have a really cool dual runner (a true one, not a cyclone type) on paper that I'd like to see done someday.

 

[BpuVR4]

Quoting Alpha Male:
Did you at least TUNE the car after putting a 2g maf in?

unless the eprom is corrected for it and then you tune it with an SAFC or similar, you're hurting the car by just adding the 2g maf /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif


also, to original poster; vented BOV is definitely the idle issue

and SMIM is sheet metal intake manifold.



everything under hood right now was the way it is when purchased. the car was supposedly dyno tuned (do not have dyno sheet) w a safc (still on car) by prev owner(s). I have the safc settings/values written down in notebook.

The other thing that i forgot to ask about the car. When i picked up the car, the ecu was laying on the pass side carpet and it was an MD 145903 and shows "A" on the lower right side of the label. Has anyone been able to remount this ecu safely, or do i just have to remove the outer tabs? i have it tucked up and behind the carpet for now, but need to mount it better.

 

[RedTwo]

Paint things red.
Red ones go faster.

 

[IncorpoRatedX]

Quoting MoMoVR4:
Quoting Alpha Male:
Did you at least TUNE the car after putting a 2g maf in?

unless the eprom is corrected for it and then you tune it with an SAFC or similar, you're hurting the car by just adding the 2g maf /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif


also, to original poster; vented BOV is definitely the idle issue

and SMIM is sheet metal intake manifold.



everything under hood right now was the way it is when purchased. the car was supposedly dyno tuned (do not have dyno sheet) w a safc (still on car) by prev owner(s). I have the safc settings/values written down in notebook.

The other thing that i forgot to ask about the car. When i picked up the car, the ecu was laying on the pass side carpet and it was an MD 145903 and shows "A" on the lower right side of the label. Has anyone been able to remount this ecu safely, or do i just have to remove the outer tabs? i have it tucked up and behind the carpet for now, but need to mount it better.



Sorry, that was directed at Mitsuturbo

Quoting mitsuturbo:
Can clearly see there is a MAF under the IC plumbing. That BOV most definitely needs to be recirculated. I can't believe i missed that.

FYI, i tried running with a 2g maf at the track.. with the BOV recirculated, and without. When it was not recirculated, it added a FULL second to my 1/4 mile ET. I went from mid 13's to mid 14's. It's bad. No matter how much you might like the way it "sounds"... DON'T f***ing DO IT!

 

Quoting MoMoVR4:
Quoting mitsuturbo:
Quoting raptorreed:
The bpv like others mention needs to be recirculated, unless you are running a blow through setup (GM Maf) or you have converted to speed density.



Can clearly see there is a MAF under the IC plumbing. That BOV most definitely needs to be recirculated. I can't believe i missed that.

FYI, i tried running with a 2g maf at the track.. with the BOV recirculated, and without. When it was not recirculated, it added a FULL second to my 1/4 mile ET. I went from mid 13's to mid 14's. It's bad. No matter how much you might like the way it "sounds"... DON'T f***ing DO IT!



yea not too much care in how it sounds right now, looking to set up a reliable quick street car. guess the prev owner did not have this car set up as properly as i had hoped...but i've dealt w worse. if i remember right, the last VR4 I had ran a Tial 50mm.

ill put up better pics when i get home



Don't feel bad, it's common in the old school Mitsubishi cars community.

The ecu case is supposed to have some tabs on the top because they push into a couple of slots located to the right of the glove box. Remove the plastic trim to the right and below the glove box that is covering the carpet and look up in there and you will see where the ecu goes. Then two bolts hold it in. I believe there is also a ground that bolts to the body.

 

[BpuVR4]

the nipple on top of the bov is busted off. salvagable or should i just get another one?


MAF


little confused what this is.


will get a heat shield asap. first time with coil on plugs




some more shots i took. any more suggestions greatly appreciated. thanks you guys

 

Get anew bov. You can use a 1g dsm valve if money is tight.

Third pic is of the windshield wiper motor (top), and cruise control valve (bottom).

 

[BpuVR4]

thanks PearsVR4 for clearing it up.

 

Glad to help.

 

[raptorWagon]

Snap a pic of the ECU, betting it's not the stock ECU if it's laying on the floor. Someone at some point probably swapped ECUs. Better yet, take the cover off and snap a pic to see if it is a Eprom ECU (should see a eprom chip on one side), generally the Eprom's are identified by a "E" on the cover, but that is not always the case if someone swapped a non-eprom ecu in and for whatever reason used a "E" labeled cover.

 

[transparentdsm]

so for the lifter issue i would def. not be putting 20w50 into my engine.... get yourself a set of 3g lifters(100$) or take out the ones in there and let them sit in a tub of PB blaster for a day or two and clean them out real good with a pin or paperclip then oil them and put them back in. im not sure how others on the board feel about this but 20w50 IMO is way to think for these cars. its not good for the turbo and even worse for all the gaskets and seals in the motor, its thick and if you don't properly let it cool down every time you drive it the oil will coke up into balls could harm the turbo or even worse the motor. again this is my opinion on the oil from experience and friends with the same car experience.. i now use 5W20 - 5w30 in my cars and have so for about 6 years.

 

[EMX5636]

Quoting MoMoVR4:
the nipple on top of the bov is busted off. salvagable or should i just get another one?





If that's the back of the HKS BOV in your first post, that port doesn't need to be connected to anything. It's to make it "fast acting" like the secondary port on the Greddy Type-S and if you Dodge Garage mod the stock 1G BOV.

 

[mitsuturbo]

Quoting Alpha Male:
Did you at least TUNE the car after putting a 2g maf in?



No. I just set the base timing to 10atdc, and bumped the base fuel pressure up to 75psi. Then i stuffed a wad of masking tape into the hot side of my intercooler, because since the MAF let more air in, i had to create a restriction somewhere else!




In other words, of course i compensated for the maf! (with keydiver, safc2 and sitc) I think maybe you focused on the wrong aspect of that post. BOV setup to VTA is bad. It increased my 1/4mile ET by a full second.

 

[IncorpoRatedX]

Oh jeeze, my bad, I completely missed what you were saying. I thought you were saying you lost a full second with the 2G MAF both recirculated and vented.

 

[mitsuturbo]

I could have worded it better, but going and reading it again, it still seems to convey the point that VTA with a (draw thru) MAF is bad news.

 

[BpuVR4]

Quoting raptorreed:
Snap a pic of the ECU, betting it's not the stock ECU if it's laying on the floor. Someone at some point probably swapped ECUs. Better yet, take the cover off and snap a pic to see if it is a Eprom ECU (should see a eprom chip on one side), generally the Eprom's are identified by a "E" on the cover, but that is not always the case if someone swapped a non-eprom ecu in and for whatever reason used a "E" labeled cover.



yea i was going to do that also but ran out of battery. either way, the serial number on the ecu is md 145903 and yea i checked for the eprom E and its an A. i will try to take the cover off when im at the car next

 

Quoting transparentdsm:
so for the lifter issue i would def. not be putting 20w50 into my engine.... get yourself a set of 3g lifters(100$) or take out the ones in there and let them sit in a tub of PB blaster for a day or two and clean them out real good with a pin or paperclip then oil them and put them back in. im not sure how others on the board feel about this but 20w50 IMO is way to think for these cars. its not good for the turbo and even worse for all the gaskets and seals in the motor, its thick and if you don't properly let it cool down every time you drive it the oil will coke up into balls could harm the turbo or even worse the motor. again this is my opinion on the oil from experience and friends with the same car experience.. i now use 5W20 - 5w30 in my cars and have so for about 6 years.


Everything I've read contradicts what you're saying in regards to oil weight. In southern hot climates 5/20-5/30 is way too thin and breaks down too quickly, especially if you run e85. Many shops that sell and rebuild turbos recommend 20/50.

Do you have an oil pressure gauge? Put your 5/20/30 in and check your oil pressure at idle, then put 20/50 in and check it. Big difference. For cold climates I would agree that lower weight is ideal but not for summer.

Turbo cars need a proper cool down anyway, I thought that was common knowledge amongst car people. I'm no expert on oil but from what I've read and what turbo builders have told me, coupled with my experience I will stick with the heavier oil.