Mofugas Car IS Back In Action!!!! 11-23-08

[Boostin21]

Quote:
Looks like someone got more than he bargained for!

The chassis harness (runs lights, ABS,and whatnot) runs through the drivers side inner fenderwell.

The engine harness (runs the engine/ECU) runs into the engine bay on the passenger side. ECU goes in the passenger side ahead of the door, in the kick panel.

All that wiring is from a 1991 Galant VR4, one I parted out about 2 years ago with pretty bad front end damage.



thanks again for trying to make me feel worthless arnie.
i know what harness does what. i know how the engine harness is run but it doesnt run how it should. yes the car it came from was damaged. the wires were burnt.i fixed them. if you are going to be so critical of me and what i am doing. than you should have bought the car. like i said i HATE wiring and am no good at it. but i LOVE wrenching on cars.

thanks for the pics charles!

for now i think i will get the chassis harness going and get what i can get done and worry about the engine harness later. i might have a local shop make me a custom harness, they have a GVR4 that is built to high heaven. but thats iffy.

 

[lunchbox]

The reason the chassis harness is burned is I removed it from my parts car with an oxy-fuel torch.

The engine harness should be pristine, car ran when it was pulled.

BTW there is a damn good reason I did not buy that car to make a street driver out of it. A Painless harness and a standalone engine bay harness is what that car is set up for.

-AC.

 

[Boostin21]

arnie... the chassis harness wasnt burned, the engine harness was burned, it is the one pictured above. i have asked so many questions about PAINLESS but no one has answered them. i wish i could get a painless kit but i dont know which one to get, 12,16,24 circuit kit? i dont know, could i still have it turn key? or would it have to be push button?

 

[iceman69510]

I may be misunderstanding the story here, but I think Cheeky and Arnie and I are basically sending the same hint. The engine control harness with the injectors, TPS, ISC, temp sensors, A/C etc. does not route into the fenderwell. It comes into the engine room. That seems to be why it is seeming short to you. That is what I provided pictures for.

Keep plugging along. Don't give up. If you have a functioning harness, you can get it to work without the Painless conversion. If you are not astute with wiring, stock is a much better start than an aftermarket harness.

 

[lunchbox]

I KNOW the CHASSIS harness you got from ROB (assuming it came from me originally) was MELTED because I had to cut the sheetmetal away that was bent up WITH A TORCH. CAN YOU FOLLOW THAT?

The ENGINE harness is pretty close to perfect, might be missing one or two plugs, BUT THE CAR RAN AFTER THE ACCIDENT and I was very careful to remove it.

Engine harness = hooks to ECU, located in passenger side footwell, comes through inside engine bay under the hood, behind passenger side strut tower.

Chassis harness = hooks to fuse box, located in driver side footwell, comes through inner fenderwell area underneath fenderwell liner. Wraps around engine bay and hooks up to lights, blinkers, etc. Terminates in fuse box on passenger side strut tower.

THESE HARNESSES CAN AND DO plug together near the passenger side strut tower bar fusebox and again under the dash as I recall from when I pulled it. It is the only VR4 I parted out and my memory is somewhat cloudy. CAPS would have some pretty decent component location diagrams, as would the factory FSMs.

As far as a Painless harness, well, you just have to be smarter than the harness to install it. I put a universal 18 circuit unit into my friends Mustang, and it was really easy. Time consuming, but easy. It would run the accessories, everything but the engine basically which you need eitehr a custom ECU harness for or the stock harness. It is a complete custom job, they of course do not make one for the Galant VR4. All it would take is a few hours looking at schematics and it would be really easy to do.

I know you are just going to ignore what I said because "I am an asshole" but I am right and trying to help you fix your car.

 

[Boostin21]

arnie i really appreciate the help i dont think you are an asshole at all. a guy from my work and i are working on the chassis harness right now, we are routing it starting behind the gauge cluster. running across the dash (behind of course).

i see where i messed with the engine harness going by what you said. i had it routed through the fender, you say it passes through the firewall, just behind the pasenger side strut tower. we are going to double check and i will get back to you.
thank you very much again arnie, you are a huge help.
cullen

 

[chucklesas]

I started stripping down a GVR4 a couple months ago, so I have some idea of a lot of the wiring now. I'm pretty much going from memory, but here it goes:

The chassis wiring harness that goes into the engine bay starts at the fuse block on the interior of the car on the driver's side.
From there it passes through the firewall and into the fender area on the drivers side.
Some lines break off for the ABS sensor and the horn and a relay in that area. Then lines pass into the engine bay in front of the driver's side shock tower and a few lines break off for the ABS motor, PS reservior sensor, A/C pressure sensor and a few misc. items.
(The horn and turn signal wires for the driver side should break off at some point through here.)
From there it runs along the radiator core support then down along the A/C lines to the bottom of the radiator. A few lines coming off for the DS headlights, A/C fan, fan relays, alternator, PS pump sensor, oil pressure sensor and I think that's it for that side.
The bundle then goes along the bottom of the radiator, and up the other side to the core support where wiring will break off for the passenger side headlight, radiator fan, and (I think) the horn and turn signal for the passenger side.
Then it goes up along the passenger side to where the engine bay fuse block, with a couple other miscillanious relays and doo-dads hooked up along the way.
From there I think there's another little bundle that runs along the passenger side for the ABS sensor, windshield washer reservior, wipers and cruise control.

I'm sure I'm missing a few things, but that should get you pretty close.

 

[Boostin21]

awesome! that was very very informative. is the main/chassis harness 2 pieces? it is starting to sound like it is.
i have the chassis harness INSIDE the car laid out. it goes from up over the steering column, down the driver side to the back/trunk. it was really easy with the help from a tech at work. the only problem is working it around the cage ans figuring how it is going to be out of the way.
well tomorrow will be more questions.
i appreciate all the help thus far. Charles, awesome information.
Arnie, man, what can i say other than thank you, you know your stuff. i appreciate it. this might be a little over my head electronically, but when thats over, this will all start moving smoothly.

 

[Boostin21]

ok well i now plan on getting all the grounds down for the chassis. the local dealer said they were, 8x2 bolts. is this correct? does this mean all grounds even in the engine bay?

 

[Travw3911]

Be sure to scuff off the paint and the rhino lining to ensure a good ground.

 

[G]

Is rhino lining jdm ?

 

[Boostin21]

you bet G, its M4D TYT3 JDM. werd!

and travis why are you a member? stecker and i have went over everything, brake cleaner should clean the lining off.

slight update, its too cold to be outside in a garage with no heat. wisdom teeth pulled and have just chilled lately. i did get my center console dyed and i snapped a few pics to compare the ugly old one and the one thats going in the car. i used HI-TECH dye in gloss black and it came out really nice, pictures dont do it justice.

 

[Boostin21]

ok well i finally found a 4 bolt diff and picked it up last night, along with a stock 1g intake manifold and TB,

hopefully this weekend i can get the rear subassembly in and get the rear coilovers in.

i was told that i shouldn't leave suspension hanging and i should apply load to it. is this true? can i just leave it hang?

wirign harness is coming along well. i have the grounds ready to go onm, i just need to clear wawy some lining on the floors, still waiting for an engine harness, can't find one anywhere!!!

TILTON master set-up was removed, going back to stock, i won't be road racing the var and factory brake booster and master will work fine.

i'll keep updating.

 

I can't think of why it would hurt it to have the suspension unloaded /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

 

[Boostin21]

yeah thats what i thought, so the rear coilovers will be going in soon.

i got the 4 bolt in the subassembly with all new hardware and the subassembly bolted in.
QUESTION: The front 2 studs coming down from the bottom of the car that the subassembly bolt up to, there are egg shapped pieces that bolt to the bottom of the subassembly and to the bottom of the car. i have them bolted on but there is a 1/8 gap between the egg shapped barcket and the subassembly. is this correct? if i flip it over it doesnt bolt on so i assume i have it on correctly.

here is the new game plan... get all that i can done MECHANICALLY, because that will go quicker, and then worry about the wiring. i figure the engine and chassis harness will be easier to run and connect with stuff to plug it into.

 

[lunchbox]

Thats correct way to mount those pieces.

If you get a Galant VR4 engine harness, the chassis wiring is pretty easy with a Painless wiring harness.

 

[Boostin21]

yeah i have a engine harness coming soon. i may just buy a PAINLESS for the chassis. arnie do you know what circuit i will need? i am running everything minus HVAC controls and power mirrors. and then all i need is to cut my connectors and use them, right?

thanks and oh yeah, EXTREEEEEEME can chug some drano, he screwed me over before and he knows it.

 

[Boostin21]

ok so heres the dilemma, i had a shep stage 2 tranny lined up for $700... it got sold
than i had another shep built tranny lined up with higher miles for $300, turned out it got sold.
so if anyone has a tranny that would be great.

--DRIVESHAFT TUNNEL AND MOUNITING?
ok so i was underneath the car and i was going to bolt up the driveshaft, to the rear diff and get it ounted in the tunnel, the studs that hang downward for the driveshaft to mount to are i'd say an M10x75 with a 1.25 pitch (someone please confirm) if i bolt the driveshaft up, is it just matter of a couple nuts and washers, or is there actual mounting hardware? it seems like there will be alot of thread exposed to be damaged. if someone could tell me what i need that would be great.

--REAR DIFF SIDE CARRIER MOUNTING BOLTS?
i just need to know the size of the bolts that go in the side of the carrier and bolt into the rear diff, i cant seem to find mine.

--3000GT VR4 REAR BRAKES SAME AS GVR4 REARS?
i have brackest made up and welded to my rear subassembly that are for 3kgt vr4 brakes, will the GVR4 calipers mount up? if they dont could i just use one of the holes and drill a hole closer for the GVR4 calipers? will the angle of the caliper matter?

thanks guys, car is coming along

 

[kcpaz]

If you want to use stock GRV4 rear calipers, then I would find some stock, un-modified trailing arms you can swap out. While you are at you can think about welding in an active steer delete kit. I'm pretty sure DSM arms are the same.

 

[Sr71sss]

cullen,

I have a complete chassis harness for sale also, didn't anyone need one, will sell for the same price, i could possibly shipped both harness ro you so shipping will be cheaper, let me know what your plans are. kinda looks like you need a lot of specific vr4 parts?

conrad