Making the swap from pump to E85

[biglady112]

Try spark plugs, cylinder head temps, individual wideband feedback, exhaust backpressure and any number of things real race cars have. Some of us have branched out and learned other platforms and other tuning solutions. It took us six weeks and 400-500 dyno pulls to learn AEM infinity on the fly in a 600cc turbocharged Yamaha salt flat bike. With no knock sensor and some of the solutions above to get the job dyno by nothing more than sound and our gut. Or a Honda CRX with a 600cfm carburetor and no data feedback period. Just driver feedback.

Just pull the boost controller off and plug your boost source and let it eat. Pretty hard to hurt the car with a 16g. And my friends and I have been running fast for years regardless of the car and weight. It has not always been small, light cars. Most of our friends are in love with faggy 2g's. Anything under 61mm we run wide open. Always have. If you don't trust your car, then don't bother. From what I have seen you are a straight line racer, why not put your balls on the table and push some sh*t now that you have made the move from garbage fuel.

I tuned a garbage AWD spider last weekend and we ended up at 26psi and 16* total timing on 91 octane in a 2880lb full weight spider. This coming from a T3 Precision 6062 on a true blue stock six bolt that was literally stock from the throttle body to oil pan. Cams, head gasket and all. Don't be sacred, crank it up. Medium timing, safe fuel curve and as much airflow as that pos turbo can make. And it will be happy any time you need to lay into it.

 

[prove_it]

I understand where your coming from. In a full out race car your logic is spot on.

Here's the deal, Brett and I (as well as others) don't strap on a dyno and can play with minor changes all day long to find the best tune. Along with that the use of individual cylinder WB sensors is not practical on a street car that's not looking to be a dyno queen.

Your coming from a point of full out max power push the turbo limit race car mentality. It has it's place, as does my approach to an E85 set-up. I street tune these cars. They tend to have hack jobs, improper set-ups, and other misc crap to deal with as someone else built it. In this case, I'm not going to push a turbo to the limit as I know that driver will break something and say it's my fault.

In Brett's car, for HIS goals on a DAIlY driver, running it in the 12's has the advantage of making solid power plus getting some great fuel mileage.

Have you ever experimented with fuel mileage with E85? I have. I pushed my car into the 18-22mpg on E85. It's pretty nice to do that. Was I making huge peak all out power? No, but it was extremely reliable, and very daily driverish.

Biglady, you mentioned the term "real race cars" and you really gotta step back and look at what HIS goal is, not what you would want YOURS to be. (not trying to start something, as your right if your building a track car or all out drag car, but this isn't the case here)l

 

[iceman69510]

Quoting biglady112:
AWD ...2880lb full weight spyder.



Really? I suspect that figure is low, especially an AWD conversion.

 

[biglady112]

The figure is accurate. After we street tuned it, not dyno tuned it, we hit up the the truck stop scale on the way back from our tuning road. The scale is always within 5-10 pounds of the scale at our local NHRA track. It only reads in 20lb increments as the track reads in 5lb increments.

 

[iceman69510]

Sorry for the off-topic.

For a 98 Spyder GST (just guessing you mean a 2g):

Standard Specs and Dimensions


Curb weight 3,053 lbs.

This of course is without the couple hundred extra lbs of rear diff and associated driveline hardware. Not arguing, and not sure it makes any difference to your post, just seeking accuracy.

 

[prove_it]

Oh, forgot to mention, but Brett be careful pushing the E85 this time of year. It can be a winter blend, and unless you have a say to test it, it could really be E70 or even E60, /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

Also not sure if you did, but I set Link to trigger my CEL at 1 count of knock. Knock on E85 is a good way to build an engine. Once that light flashes, I get out of it just in case, usually it's just phantom but better to be safe.

 

[biglady112]

They built an auto AWD one that weighs less than what you listed as well. I trust the scale versus an online source.

 

[turbowop]

My car weighs 3280 with nobody in it at our local truck scale. Sub 3k sounds a bit light to me as well for a full weight car.

 

[biglady112]

Dot certified scale. Pretty sure it is right on. 338/2000 is down to 2910 and is not that gutted. Not my fault you all are fat asses.

 

[turbowop]

For what it's worth, the scale near me is also DOT certified. I can't see taking that much weight out of my car without getting rid of nice comforts like AC, PS, etc. I wouldn't call it full weight at that point if I did anyway.

And I'm no fat ass at a whopping 155lbs. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

 

[iceman69510]

That's my point. A "full weight" car is not 400 lbs down from where it should be (with added AWD conversion). And curb weight does not count driver weight.

 

[prove_it]

Quoting biglady112:
Dot certified scale. Pretty sure it is right on. 338/2000 is down to 2910 and is not that gutted. Not my fault you all are fat asses.




Please show us how to get a GVR4 down to 2910 without gutting the crap out of it. Make a how-to thread. I would love to see the procedure of that feat.

 

[89Patches]

According to Mitsu my car weighs 1350kg (2980lbs) from factory. I know USDM VR4's were rated at 1475kg (3250lbs) from Mitsu as well.

 

[slugsgomoo]

My galant has been on a DOT certified scale and weighs 3100 with 1/8 tank and me standing by the guy with the readout, not in the car...

I have removed:

A/C
4WS
ABS
CC
USDM bumpers (i have the ricey JDM ones that are 45 & 40lb lighter each)
CF JDM RS hood (fiberglass)
auto belt delete
twin disc (clutch & flywheel weigh 3lb less than factory clutch without flywheel)


heavy sh*t added to the car:

HKS manifold
intercooler
oil cooler
bigger oil filter
harness bar
scattershield

I haven't weighed the car with the new big brakes, but they feel lighter than the factory stuff even with the added size, plus i have a seat swap that should shed some weight in the future. I'd love to dip below 3k with a 1/4 tank, but keeping the interior and some creature comforts makes that hard.

I want to know what's missing from this "full weight" car, or I want to know how the f*** you guys accomplished that when adding weight to it, because if you have a way you pulled that off I WANT IN.