light weight flywheel

[FlyingEagle]

Mirage/Colt turbo.
4g63t HKS 264/272 combo with balance shaft belt installed.
4 corner polymount inserts.
MD995656 FWD 1991-92, F5M33-2-SPZV trans with Quaife LSD
FWD DSM Fidanza lightweight aluminum flywheel 8.2 lbs # 161651
MB1-HDSS ACT 2100 clutch and pressure plate
"Torque Capacity (ft/lbs.):320
Recommendation:Recommended for street and race use
Engagement:A low to moderate pedal feel; smooth engagement with stock to low gear rattle"

Driving in traffic is a bother.
Transmission does make the coast down gear whine - directly attributable to clutch/flywheel combo as prescribed.
Clutch pedal is pretty stiff, like yes. No idea what a 2600 felt like. Manageable.
Keeping the RPM's up to control low RPM roll, is decidedly not good, nor low speed traffic situations.
Too much time clutching in, to compensate for low speed roll.
This is where a heavier flywheel makes all the difference, just like your everyday grocery getter in the grocery lot.

Needs a heavier flywheel, and/or a heavier rotating mass like a fluid filled type harmonic dampener.
Take your pic on the route you go. For street - flywheel gets heavier option. For track - dampener needs weight and upgraded safety factor.

Yes, I have a lighter car than a GVR4.

My Passat FWD 1.8T had a heavy as sin stock, dual mass flywheel and it made for really low RPM/near engine lugging ability at low speeds in first. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

All of this aside.

I love the speed at which you can bang the gears, but RPM's love to fall off fast with this light weight combination and this does not bode well when you are slow shifting with cold trans fluid in the winter months or even before everything in your trans is up to temp. Without Link and a really proper idle/idle stop switch setup, you will hate a motor that drops off really quick and has trouble compensating for it.

My two cents.

 

[MX4]

Quoting cheekychimp:
I'm pretty sure that there is another OEM flywheel that fits the VR4 and falls halfway between the aluminium units and the stock VR4 wheel in terms of weight. I'll try and dig up the info.



Yes there is the Evo 0/RS flywheel which is lighter than the standard VR4 flywheel.Heres some photos of the difference

 

[fuel]

I never knew there was a difference! The RS flywheel still looks heavy though, and looks almost identical to that used in later performance Mitsubishis like the Evo1-3, 7G Galant VR-4 and MIVEC V6 VX-R Galant/FTO etc apart from the obvious crankshaft bolt count.

 

[EHmotorsports]

Quoting pot:
"OOooohh, A Jun Chromoly flywheel, so very jaydeem. I gots to get me one of them" to quote RRE. They infer the Jun is too thin and cannot be resurfaced. Below is a link where they talk a little bit about lightweight flywheels and step height:

RRE's Clutch and Flywheel Tech Info



Pots link to RRE touches on the jdm flywheel a bit.

 

[gtluke]

my aluminum fidanza flywheel probably has more miles on it than any galant has total miles in this thread. seriously
If I had to guess it probably has 130k on it.

 

[prove_it]

Like mentioned before, I think it's the clutch that kills drivability. I've done lightened flywheels in all my cars and never had an issue with lugging, jerking, etc. I also never ran aggressive as hell discs and plates.

 

[gtluke]

yerp. I run a centerforce.

 

[cheekychimp]

Centre Force Dual Friction here too. I don't know how much power it holds in comparison with other clutches if you are making a lot of power but it has served me very, very well on my relatively lightly modded daily and driveability is excellent.

 

[vr4play]

I don't like the aluminum flywheel because of how they are made. You bolt a steel friction surface to a chunk of aluminum and expect it to stay flat. My experience has been they are noisy and if you launch it a lot the steel plate warps and the clutch fails. Aluminum and steel expand and contract at different rates so to me it just sounds bad. I use a ACT and it works fine. The next one I buy will probably be a competition clutch though. I recently had my ACT refinished and found that the step was wrong out of the box and that's why my clutches only lasted 5k miles at a time.

 

[gtluke]

ACT's are garbage. My first one lasted a good 40k and then a spring popped out. The 2nd one went MAYBE 5k and a spring popped out. When i worked at DS we had an ASSLOAD of them have springs pop out when they went to the rubber spring in a few of the slots. The pedal feel is AWFUL too.
The CF can't take multiple launches, it just doesn't have the clamping power. But man the car drives SOOOOO much better than the ACT.

 

[slugsgomoo]

my experience is that the CFDF doesn't like bigger power level (say 3052+) and it really doesn't like torque (say... not shitty 7.8:1 motor).

The one I had in my 1g was decent, but at 8.5:1 and an evo3 in a 6cm^2 it did not take that long before the car would blow through the clutch as soon as it spooled up.

My ACT 2600 had I think 25k on it when I sold the motor and gave the clutch to the guy who bought the motor and it's still going strong as far as I know. I know some people had problems, but when the whole thing was going bad for them, I never saw one pop that wasn't missing a dowel pin or the magic bolt on the backside of the trans.

For what it's worth I had an RRE lightened flywheel, and knowing what I know now, I'd never, ever install one in a car again. My opinion is that if you're exceeding OEM redline, you should run an SFI rated flywheel, and for me, a scattershield.

Maybe I'm unnecessarily risk averse.

 

[pot]

I don't get it. What is wrong with the RRE No Name Flywheel? It is the same exact flywheel as the ACT Xact. SFI rated or not. It was also mentioned earlier that it was probably made in China. I have a hard time believing it was manufactured anywhere other than Taiwan at a minimum. Again, the RRE No Name Flywheel is a fine unit which I've personally used on two different Mitsu's w/o concern and issue.

Having said that, support a vendor thats been in the game for a long time and buy a product that is significantly cheaper than the other flywheels I listed in my first post.

 

[EHmotorsports]

we all have to understand that not all flywheels are created equal. every race component was created for a purpose. some for drag racing others for road course and most don't like the other side. if you use something like a Jun flywheel for drag racing. you may have a bad time. road racing? you might be fine for years to come.

 

[pot]

I read Slugs post wrong too. He was talking about RRE's lightened flywheel, not their No Name -my bad

 

[diambo4life]

I like ACT pressure plates personally. I HATE ACT discs and I stopped running them probably 8 years ago. My go to clutch combo has been the ACT PP and a clutch Net (solid) 4-puck disc. This thing will take all the abuse and some. I did overpower an ACT2600PP's capability during my last dyno session so I have an ACT 3200PP installed now. This thing does however need some shimming of the pivot ball to work fine. I also had a CFDF in #476 while I had the GT3076 turbo on last year and it could not handle that turbo's output....great pedal feel though.


Just to add....for moderate power levels, an ACT2600 and the stock OEM disc worked very well. Just don't make a bunch of pulls on the highway and make it very hot. IMO, it was a good street/track combo.

 

[Spyke169]

Has anyone used the Competition Clutch Steel Flywheel from JNZ? click

Made from 4140 steel. Weight is similar to the RRE "No Name"

 

[cheekychimp]

Quoting slugsgomoo:
my experience is that the CFDF doesn't like bigger power level (say 3052+) and it really doesn't like torque (say... not shitty 7.8:1 motor).

The one I had in my 1g was decent, but at 8.5:1 and an evo3 in a 6cm^2 it did not take that long before the car would blow through the clutch as soon as it spooled up.



Well that's a bummer, mine's holding fine at present but my last 'upgrade' for the daily was going to be an EVO III 16G and FP exhaust Manifold when the Big 16G fails. I really hope that doesn't tip the power over the CFDF power threshold. I love that clutch. Still it would give me a chance to try that Southbend Kevlar disk and CF pressure plate combo which is supposed to work pretty well!

 

[tektic]

To reiterate I'm using a South Bend Heavy Duty TZ-Series Kevlar Clutch

I've narrowed my options to :
-Stock resurfaced
-RRE No Name

-Comp Clutch

-ACT StreetLite

By the way, The RRE Looks a lot more like the CC than the ACT to me. What do you think?

 

[iceman69510]

I have a used ACT streetlite I would sell. About 30k miles on it (many highway). I will have to find it and get you a pic if interested.

 

[gtluke]

I probably get away with more than most because my car is absurdly light for a street car.