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Ice Tea or DOT 3

GreenGSX

Well-known member
Joined
May 15, 2005
Messages
681
Location
Rochester, New York
My rear calipers have always needed a little "squeeze" with a c-clamp before I turn them in. Sometimes I have to turn them in, clamp them some more, turn them in etc..etc. I also say screw the crappy tool to turn them in with. The slots in the pistons on mine are so beat up I just get my biggest set of channel locks and go to town. I've also found that waiting until I used every last drop of pad before changing them just makes turning the pistons in that much harder. Rear pads are cheap once they get down to just a little past half-way I change them.
 

Quoting GVR4NGER694:


If you are as experienced as you say you are then you would know that you can use both a "LISLE" or "C-Clamp" to compress the front and rear CALIPER piston.



I'm quite expierenced, but i've never heard that one. Guess you learned me something...... Compressing a rear caliper from a gvr4 with a clamp..... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif


Anyway, if you really did that, you seriously f*cked (something) up. Get yourself new calipers asap.
 
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boostedinaz

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 20, 2006
Messages
4,085
Location
Scottsdale, AZ
I agree with most here because this isn't debatable. If you just squeezed the piss out of the rear caliper with a C clamp you have ruined the caliper. They NEED to be rotated at the same time as they are compressed no way around that. I bought a cheap Harbor Freight brake tool jobber thingy that works great and was only 40.00.

I wouldn't worry about getting crap for it because we have all messed up from time to time. Luckily I learned about these types of calipers from a buddy who screwed one up on a Nissan he was working on years ago. Nothing wrong with making mistakes as long as you learn from them.
 
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GreenGSX

Well-known member
Joined
May 15, 2005
Messages
681
Location
Rochester, New York
You can squeeze the caliper and move the piston. It has both mechanical and fluid driven motion. I don't advocate crushing it to death but a little squeeze of the c-clamp and turn it in with the pliers/piston tool will get it done. Once the piston gets closer to fully seated they normally turn in easier.
 

I just have to say that I am a complete moron.

I had no idea what I was doing 2 years ago
Compared to now, so for those who find the post
The rear caliper piston needs to be compressed by screwing or turning it back into
Position.
YOU CAN NOT smack it with a hammer, use a c-clap
Or push it by hand after bleeding the fluid.
 

Me too. I ruIned my calipers by thinking they
Would be easy to compress.

Little did I know...
 

SleepinGVR4

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 12, 2003
Messages
2,483
Location
Danville, Pennsylvania
Quoting galantgti:
I'm using ATE Super Blue Racing Brake Fluid. Superb quality dot 4. The fluid is blue, so it's real easy to tell when you've flushed the older fluid, if you are bleeding them. Dry boiling point of 280 degrees C and a wet boiling point of 198 degrees C!!!!



+1 This brake fluid is made to be switched between the Super Blue and their other type that is the normal clear color.

Handy for track cars that change their fluid often. Because race car.
 
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