prove_it
Well-known member
I'm using the redline cocktail, 2qts MT-90, 1 of MTL. I love the shift quality. I'm at 325whp with a cleaned up bone stock 93 trans. Shifts great even at 7500.
The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource
Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey. Login to browse without most ads.
I knew this moment would come
- Thread starter vr4play
- Start date
Turbo99
Well-known member
I use the circa 2007 "transmission crack" mixture. I've been advised against it in later years but hundreds of launches and track passes with no ill effects has me coming back to it every time.
1 Qt Redline Heavy Duty Shockproof
Remainder BG Syncroshift II
Had the case off the trans last year, everything looked minty fresh.
1 Qt Redline Heavy Duty Shockproof
Remainder BG Syncroshift II
Had the case off the trans last year, everything looked minty fresh.
Last edited:
GSTwithPSI
Well-known member
NEO RHD or Redline fluids seem to be the best/most popular.
I too use the Redline cocktail. That used to include topping off with shockproof in the trans until I read that was really bad.
Good read concerning oils for our transmissions: click
Quoting Turbo99:
1 Qt Redline Heavy Duty Shockproof
Remainder BG Syncroshift II
Had the case of the trans last year, everything looked minty fresh.
You must be really lucky, seeing as that is pretty much the worst possible combo of fluids for preserving the transmission's longevity.
I too use the Redline cocktail. That used to include topping off with shockproof in the trans until I read that was really bad.
Good read concerning oils for our transmissions: click
Quoting Turbo99:
1 Qt Redline Heavy Duty Shockproof
Remainder BG Syncroshift II
Had the case of the trans last year, everything looked minty fresh.
You must be really lucky, seeing as that is pretty much the worst possible combo of fluids for preserving the transmission's longevity.
Last edited:
Turbo99
Well-known member
*shrug* It gets fluid changes every 1500-3000 miles /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif
Maybe that has something to do with it? Like I said, gave it a real good once over when I had the case off and nothing looked worn, pitted, chipped, cracked etc. I have never had shavings come out in the fluid...
Maybe that has something to do with it? Like I said, gave it a real good once over when I had the case off and nothing looked worn, pitted, chipped, cracked etc. I have never had shavings come out in the fluid...
GSTwithPSI
Well-known member
*yawn* Like I said, must be lucky. Especially when the additives in fliud you're running are what cause the damage. The speed in which the fliuds break down don't really have any bearing on the situation when it is the fluid itself that's the issue. But god damn, trans fluid changes every 1500 miles? I wish I was that rich.
Hey, if it works for you, it works. I'm just going by what I've read and been told.
Hey, if it works for you, it works. I'm just going by what I've read and been told.
Last edited:
prove_it
Well-known member
The shockproof contains paraffin wax. This wax builds up in the oil holes and passages which starves the gears and bearings of precious fluid. Shep used to highly recommend it, but once it was discovered, he won't warranty any trans that uses shockproof. I have seen the results of this in real life. Buddy had a new stage 3 that starting making loud bearing noises. Pulled it apart and found the mainshaft was all plugged up after 4k miles of DD.
I think dedicated racecars might be able to get away with it, since they are low low driven miles, I still wouldn't use the stuff.
I think dedicated racecars might be able to get away with it, since they are low low driven miles, I still wouldn't use the stuff.
GSTwithPSI
Well-known member
^Yep. Basically echos what Jack says in the link I provided.
prove_it
Well-known member
Yea, what he said. I think a lot of people are still downplaying the effects of shockproof in the trans. I've seen what it does, so I preach how bad it it.
turbowop
Well-known member
I've been using Neo RHD for a lot of years now, as recommended by Lucas at ER. Shifts great and protects the gears well.
Using Synchroshift or Synchromesh will make an old trans shift great, but both are horrible at protecting gears if you're making decent power. The problem won't show up as shavings or metallic fluid. The trans will just go boom one day during a hard launch or long pull through the gears.
Using Synchroshift or Synchromesh will make an old trans shift great, but both are horrible at protecting gears if you're making decent power. The problem won't show up as shavings or metallic fluid. The trans will just go boom one day during a hard launch or long pull through the gears.
prove_it
Well-known member
I used synchromesh in my old VR4 with 250whp and it was amazing. But yea what Wop said about horrible gear protection under heavy load is true. It's great stuff for synchros.
Brianawd
Well-known member
In my galant I used RP 80w-90 in the trans and 85w-140 in the tcase and rear diff. In my evo I run 75w-90 redline in the trans and shock prof heavy in the tcase and rear diff.
vr4play
Well-known member
I use Motul gear 300. It's been good to me till now. I have been thinking about using the Neo stuff.
donniekak
Well-known member
Constantly doing this is what made me go auto. They have their own set of issues, but eating themselves from a roll isn't one of them.
Barnes
Well-known member
I'm really curious how much we sacrifice gear set longevity to compensate for poor shifting. It just makes me wonder how well a gear set would do if you have double syncros, a twin plate clutch, and THEN you used a much heavier gear oil because you don't have to increase syncro friction as much. Because ultimately that's what ANY of our various fluid cocktails are trying to accomplish; enough gear protection, yet enough syncro friction to shift nicely.
Brianawd
Well-known member
Quote:
I'm really curious how much we sacrifice gear set longevity to compensate for poor shifting. It just makes me wonder how well a gear set would do if you have double syncros, a twin plate clutch, and THEN you used a much heavier gear oil because you don't have to increase syncro friction as much. Because ultimately that's what ANY of our various fluid cocktails are trying to accomplish; enough gear protection, yet enough syncro friction to shift nicely.
You want to make a dsm trans shift like a honda?
dsm 1st gear
dsm double cone 2nd
evo3 3/4 double cone gear set
dsm 5th gear
twin disc.
I could full throttle shift at 9k with out even the slightest hesitation. I beat on the trans for years and it always shifted perfect. The twin is a big part of making a dsm shift like it should. Almost every single disc clutch drags in the upper rpms. That kills the shifting in the dsm's
I'm really curious how much we sacrifice gear set longevity to compensate for poor shifting. It just makes me wonder how well a gear set would do if you have double syncros, a twin plate clutch, and THEN you used a much heavier gear oil because you don't have to increase syncro friction as much. Because ultimately that's what ANY of our various fluid cocktails are trying to accomplish; enough gear protection, yet enough syncro friction to shift nicely.
You want to make a dsm trans shift like a honda?
dsm 1st gear
dsm double cone 2nd
evo3 3/4 double cone gear set
dsm 5th gear
twin disc.
I could full throttle shift at 9k with out even the slightest hesitation. I beat on the trans for years and it always shifted perfect. The twin is a big part of making a dsm shift like it should. Almost every single disc clutch drags in the upper rpms. That kills the shifting in the dsm's
Last edited:
prove_it
Well-known member
Yea, but that's not the best solution for a DD. Drag car and track cars yes, but I've heard really great things about Southbend single discs.
If twins didn't chatter so much I would use it for DD. Plus if your shifting at 9k, your probably making serious power anyway.
If twins didn't chatter so much I would use it for DD. Plus if your shifting at 9k, your probably making serious power anyway.
Brianawd
Well-known member
Quote:
Yea, but that's not the best solution for a DD. Drag car and track cars yes, but I've heard really great things about Southbend single discs.
If twins didn't chatter so much I would use it for DD. Plus if your shifting at 9k, your probably making serious power anyway.
you can make a twin drive really good on a dsm. Just add a 2g slave and accumulator. Still has a little chatter but not bad and you can now slip the clutch. The key to keeping the chatter down on a twin is more rpm when leaving a light. I dd my galant for about a year with the twin. Really was not that bad. And that was on the old quartermaster. The twins now are much better
Yea, but that's not the best solution for a DD. Drag car and track cars yes, but I've heard really great things about Southbend single discs.
If twins didn't chatter so much I would use it for DD. Plus if your shifting at 9k, your probably making serious power anyway.
you can make a twin drive really good on a dsm. Just add a 2g slave and accumulator. Still has a little chatter but not bad and you can now slip the clutch. The key to keeping the chatter down on a twin is more rpm when leaving a light. I dd my galant for about a year with the twin. Really was not that bad. And that was on the old quartermaster. The twins now are much better
GSTwithPSI
Well-known member
Wtf is an accumulator? Never heard of one in a clutch hydraulic system?
prove_it
Well-known member
I always wondered what the clutch feel would be like using the 2G accumulator. I was talking with my buddy that was using 1G twin and we were working on his 2G. Good to know someone has done it.
The accumulator is a cylinder that works to slow the movement of clutch fluid so the clutch doesn't "dump". It's kinda like the little spring and plate everyone takes out on our stock slaves, except the 2G is external, big and more damping occurs.
The accumulator is a cylinder that works to slow the movement of clutch fluid so the clutch doesn't "dump". It's kinda like the little spring and plate everyone takes out on our stock slaves, except the 2G is external, big and more damping occurs.
turbowop
Well-known member
I picked up an accumulator and was going to use it along with a slave that used a larger diameter piston to slow the engagement point of my old twin. But I honestly don't think it would have improved it enough to make me wanna keep the twin. I don't think I'll ever run anything with an unsprung hub either, single disks included. Just too harsh, IMO. Maybe I'm just getting old.
My current single shifts well enough for me. I think it's mostly in the trans and getting the hydraulics setup correctly to get a single to not drag and shift like it should. I can do all the Jack's trans tests like bouncing off the 7500rpm rev limiter while stopped with the clutch disengaged and the car doesn't move.
My current single shifts well enough for me. I think it's mostly in the trans and getting the hydraulics setup correctly to get a single to not drag and shift like it should. I can do all the Jack's trans tests like bouncing off the 7500rpm rev limiter while stopped with the clutch disengaged and the car doesn't move.
Last edited:
