fuel
Well-known member
Quoting prove_it:
Bottom is a bolt, top is a pin that is bolted to the bracket. It can be removed, but not needed. The tool listed is the same one I use professionally, and has lasted for 12yrs. Got mine at Sears, but most part stores will have one.
note: when turning in, go clockwise and make sure there is room in the master reservoir for fluid to return into. You'll need to turn the tool with a 3/8" ratchet and apply pressure to push the piston in while turning it. It might be really really hard to do, if so the caliper is sticking and should be replaced. If it's hard then gets easy to push in that's just the seal fighting you and it's fine. Check your new pads too, make sure they slide right into the bracket. If you have to force them, then you need to clean the bracket. Rust build-up can cause this and the pads will seize, drag, and wear really fast.
That's a good way to make your ABS pump go faulty. You don't want to push old fluid back up the system - you should be cracking open the bleed nipple while winding the piston back in. I always flush a bit of new fluid through the braking system when replacing pads anyway.
Bottom is a bolt, top is a pin that is bolted to the bracket. It can be removed, but not needed. The tool listed is the same one I use professionally, and has lasted for 12yrs. Got mine at Sears, but most part stores will have one.
note: when turning in, go clockwise and make sure there is room in the master reservoir for fluid to return into. You'll need to turn the tool with a 3/8" ratchet and apply pressure to push the piston in while turning it. It might be really really hard to do, if so the caliper is sticking and should be replaced. If it's hard then gets easy to push in that's just the seal fighting you and it's fine. Check your new pads too, make sure they slide right into the bracket. If you have to force them, then you need to clean the bracket. Rust build-up can cause this and the pads will seize, drag, and wear really fast.
That's a good way to make your ABS pump go faulty. You don't want to push old fluid back up the system - you should be cracking open the bleed nipple while winding the piston back in. I always flush a bit of new fluid through the braking system when replacing pads anyway.