help doing engine swap in my '92 eagle 2000 GTX ('92 Galant)

[Woosky117]

i just got the waterneck, and i already installed it.
installed the new rad, and somehow managed the fan installed without hacking it.
i put it in sideways... its kinda hard to explain, ill get some pics eventualy.

all i have left is like 10 more bolts, and now im just waiting on the MFI relay. it should be here friday.
cant wait!

 

[1990ggsxnj]

*Drumrolls*

 

[cspetros]

You mean you used the stock fan and put it in sideways? Definitely interested in seeing that.

 

[Woosky117]

yeah i put the stock fan in sideways. its i realy tight fit tho, cuz its a little higher off from where it would normaly be.
i put in four bolts in along the bottom of the rad, and i have the fan resting sideways on those bolts, and all the bolts are tightened while pinching the plastic of the fan. then i found a small strip of metal that was just long enough to put a bolt thru a mounting point on the top of the rad, and then a bolt and nut to hold onto the stock mount on the fan. its sturdy, but its just a temporary solution. well see how long it stays. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[Woosky117]

so this is how i mounted the fan.
the four bolts pinching it to the bottom.


and the custom bracket up top.


everything in the engine bay is done. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif


oh, and i shaved the eagle badge.


so now, everything is done, save for the MFI relay which should arrive in about 12 hours. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I CANT WAIT!!!

 

[Woosky117]

IT RUNS!!!!

i installed the MFI relay that came in today,

AND IT RUNS!!!!

sure its a little bumpy, and the idle seems off, my timing belt needs to be centered and probably tightened, and my odometer doesnt seem to be working,

BUT IT RUNS!!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
IM SOOOOOOOOO HAPPY!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif





so if you could help me out with the few final tweaks, THAT WOULD BE AWESOME!
especialy you, Chris. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif Honestly you have been the biggest help with this entire build, and i am grateful.
and not that the rest of you guys didnt help, because you did, so i want to thank you all.
i see the light at the end of this tunnle. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[cspetros]

Rock awesome! I'm glad to have had a small part in the resurrection. You're totally welcome /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

The most important thing on your list is the timing belt. The idle and the tachometer are easy fixes.

If the belt seems loose, the timing belt eccentric tensioner pulley may not be adjusted just right. I wouldn't go out and ride it around just yet (I know you're probably wanting to do this; I would too /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif). You might wind up crushing a few valves if the belt slips a few teeth, and then the whole scene would go to hell in a handbasket.

The best source for fine tuning the timing belt is the VFAQ Timing Belt pages: Timing Belt, yo! and here also: Timing belt index. Getting the belt tension just right is finicky for first timers (Believe me, I know /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif). But, after you get it right, it's definitely a good feeling.

Your tachometer is not working because it's a SOHC tachometer... give me a second and I'll have the diagrams up.

The idle can be adjusted using the BISS screw.

 

[Woosky117]

whats a BISS screw? and where is it?

 

[cspetros]

The BISS (Base Idle Set Screw) is located on the intake manifold. See this page: Setting the BISS The only difference here is that the ignition timing plug they're referring to for you to ground is up on the firewall on Galant's/2000GTX's (the article is for DSMs). Ground is anywhere on the metal frame of the car (you prolly knew this /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif).

Getting your tach (did you mean the Tachometer? You said Odometer originally) to work will require some more splicing on your harness. By now, I guess you're getting pretty good at it /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hsugh.gif. On to the post about that...

 

[cspetros]

Ok. For your tachometer. This may be a bit difficult to follow... Keep in mind that the SOHC tachometers read up to only 8000RPM, while the DOHC tachs read up to 9000RPM. I think this might mean that your tach reading will be off a bit...

The 1992 SOHC engine's tach got it's signal from it's 3-pin ignition power transistor. The DOHC engines get the signal from a 4-pin ignition power transistor. If you follow the white-with-black-stripe wire from the ignition power transistor, eventually you should reach a small connector, (called B-06, according to the manual) with a solid WHITE wire that branches off, and goes to the connector on the back of the tachometer/gauge panel in the dash. It is located on the wiring harness portion behind the intake manifold. If this connector isn't connected, the tach will not get a signal, but the ECU will:


Does the new wiring harness have any cut wires on it on the portion up under the dash? I ask this because it seems that the B-06 connector follows straight to the tach/gauge panel connector. One would either have to separate the entire wire, or cut it at some point.

The manual is somewhat self-contradictory on this subject, because some wiring diagrams (those in the Meters & Gauges section) show the wire coming directly from the ECU wire (totally leaving out the B-06 connector). It also has a typo on the connector number one one diagram.

One solution to this wire tracing would be to neatly run your own wire from the ignition transistor TAC pin (#4) to the tach connector behind the gauges.

 

[Woosky117]

thanks for all the info.
i printed off all thos pages, so ill be able to follow it step by step now.
and ill be able to get the belts put on right this time. and ill change the ballance shaft belt too, now that i have the instructions. this would have been helpful when i had the engine out originaly, but ill manage.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

you guys think i can do this all by the end of the week?
i sure hope i can. im surprising even myself at what ive accomplished so far.
this is the first time in my life that ive ever done anything like this.
its kinda overwhelming, but ive just got to take it one step at a time, and one thing after another.

i will do this. my car will be purring, with ALL new belts tight, and WITH the tach working.
which btw, i still havnt found the wire you were talking about.
maybe if you have a few pics or something... im a very visual person, and the diagram can only give me so much.

thanks. you're a great help.

 

[cspetros]

I went out and looked at my '90 G-GSX's harness. This connector (the B-06 one) has some sort of barrel looking thing (a capacitor maybe?) at the end of it; the wire is white/black. It sort of just dead ends /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif. I'm not sure what it's for. But, I doubt that this is your problem, since it doesn't disconnect from the entire harness necessarily. Here is a pic of it (that's a closeup, BTW. The barrel thing is thumb width):

Another thing to check, just to be sure: there are 3 connectors up under the dash on the passenger side of the car (near the ECU) that are for the chassis electrical system. According to another diagram, the tachometer line originates at the power transistor, and runs directly through a connector called C-09 (see what I mean about contradictory?). Be sure that these three connectors pictured are indeed connected:

 

[Woosky117]

thanks for that info.

i think i may have found my main problem.

this is the connector from my old wiring harness.
it has 10 wires coming out of it.


this is the connector on my new harness.
it has 15 wires coming out of it.


this is the socket that they are supposed to plug into, and it runs wires directly to my dash.
it only has 10 prongs inside it.
therein lies my problem.


there is more information trying to get to my dash, and thru slightly different wires, but it cant get there because the dash doesnt even have enough wires to receive all the info.
oh, and sort of a side problem, the blowers for the in car heating, and cooling dont work.

oh and this is that little dead end thing you were talking about.
no idea what it is either. it not on the old harness...


oh, and any idea what this thing is? its right beside the wires for the MFI relay.
and also you can see a few wires in the background. they come down from the dash, and they dont plug into anything... not even on my old harness. there are three different connectors that come down from the dash wiring, and dont plug into anything.


i also found that my timing is off on the engine. very slightly, but enought that the engine is vibrating more than it should. im gonna work on that tomorrow. need to jack up the car again, and get at those belts, and make sure this time that the timing marks are set right this time. and ill change the ballance shaft belt while im at it.

so if im right about that wiring for the dash, do i have to get the dash wiring?
its not super important, but i will want to fix it eventualy.

anyways, thats the update for now.
thanks for the help.

 

[cspetros]

I will be sure to examine those connectors in the factory manual tomorrow. It's 1:30am here, and I'm sleepy /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif.

For your timing belts, just follow those pages, and you will be just fine. If it's vibrating, you might have the lower balance shaft (the one driven by the big timing belt) out of phase by 180 degrees. In those pages, it will tell you a trick for determining if the timing mark is correct, or if you need to rotate the sprocket 1 revolution (the sprocket directly drives the main oil pump gear; the balance shaft is driven by the oil pump gear via a smaller gear). The trick will keep you from having to remove a bolt and stick a screwdriver into a hole in the engine block to test the position of the balance shaft.

Do you have a torque wrench?

You said that the engine runs. That's a big relief right there. The rest is just minor(+/-) stuff.

Good job. Back at you in the morning /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif.

 

[Woosky117]

lol, chris i beat you with the time. im in atlantic time.
im 1 hour ahead of you. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
anyways, ttyt. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

 

[Woosky117]

and no, i do not have a torque wrench. unfortunately.
i have to buy one...

 

[cspetros]

Gotta love the sleepless nights... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

One question: Did you have these connectors connected to begin with when you started the car? If no, that's ok. If you did, tell me.

So, the connector you're holding is the C-09 connector I spoke of earlier. It is a very important connector /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif.

According to what you said earlier, and from the CAS wiring issue you had, the new wiring harness is from a 1990 DSM. For the moment, it doesn't matter if the DSM was turbo or not (I don't think it was. Correct?).

I looked at your pictures, and went over the wiring diagrams searching for all instances of the C-09 connector. The following spreadsheet details each wire in the C-09 connection. The 10 wires highlighted in GREEN represent the wires that your car supports. The new wiring harness has these 10 wires, and a few more wires that your car does not support. Those that are NOT supported are highlighted in YELLOW (If you're curious, RED represents wires not present on the harness or your car). Since the harness is from 1990, there are 3 wires that were later phased out (the '90 style cruise control was actuated instead of vacuum controlled):


All in all, if you just plug the two connectors together, it should work fine. Standard equipment positions didn't change between harnesses, that I know of. Double check the wire colors that I've posted against the ones in your car, just to be doubly sure.

The wires that your car doesn't support will not connect (they do not matter, 3 of them are not connected anywhere else on the harness, 1 of them is for ETACS type Wipers(your car doesn't have these), and 2 do not exist in your car (the ????? ones)).

Take some pictures of your instrument panel (gauges, etc) and post them up. Your car doesn't have Cruise (according to your engine bay pic)(a good thing, from the harness point of view); I'm not sure if the '90 wiring harness has the C-07-1 connector that handles the newer cruise control connection. Does your car have A/C? I can't see the A/C lines in any pics. Just wondering.

 

[cspetros]

Furthermore, I believe that white/clear connector beside the MFI relay is the O2 sensor check connector. It's used for diagnostics; tuck it away and forget about it /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif.

 

[Woosky117]

yes those connectors were connected when i started the car.

the harness was from a non turbo.

my car was a base, base model. no ac. standard, so no cruse control. my wipers work.
its just the tach that doesnt work.

ill post the pics tonight.

 

[cspetros]

Hey,

I guess a better question would be "Did the check engine light illuminate for 5 seconds and then go out when you started the car?". This would guarantee at least that the ECU was indicating to the gauge panel normally (we know it works cause the engine ran). If all those things on the list of pins (brake light, etc.) work, then that's good. We can just focus on the tach part.