gvr4 aluminum radiator question

[alansupra94]

^^^^

I know that AEM EMS reads coolant temperatures from the housing. The radiator sensor is used to turn on and off the cooling fan. I ended up removing that whole stock setup and letting AEM control both fans via two relays. I have them come on earlier and works fantastic.

 

[vtecds1]

This is what I was using before . Work flawlessly in the Vegas weather with 1 puller fan. Although the price went up and the material is aluminum instead of copper.

 

[theevozero]

The cap is placed on the radiator for a reason, it is the highest point in the cooling system. If you use a 1g radiator and neck, you'll have a huge air bubble at the top of the radiator, you would likely have to install a bleeder screw. The sensor at the top of the gvr4 neck is the ac cut off switch(for overheating) and is not required if you don't have ac. Also, dsm radiators have a fan switch at the bottom, just like a gvr4 radiator.

That particualr radiator is junk. How do I know? I have one. It was not built properly to fit a gvr4. The bung they weld on for the fan switch is too small and will need to be drilled and tapped. Also, the locating tabs on the bottom are about 1/4" too far apart and will need to be cut off and relocated.

 

[JNR]

^^^I suppose you could install an expansion tank, but what a pita rather than just getting the correct model.

 

[alansupra94]

Quoting TheEvoZero:
The cap is placed on the radiator for a reason, it is the highest point in the cooling system. If you use a 1g radiator and neck, you'll have a huge air bubble at the top of the radiator, you would likely have to install a bleeder screw. The sensor at the top of the gvr4 neck is the ac cut off switch(for overheating) and is not required if you don't have ac. Also, dsm radiators have a fan switch at the bottom, just like a gvr4 radiator.

That particualr radiator is junk. How do I know? I have one. It was not built properly to fit a gvr4. The bung they weld on for the fan switch is too small and will need to be drilled and tapped. Also, the locating tabs on the bottom are about 1/4" too far apart and will need to be cut off and relocated.



How would one go about installing a bleeder screw or this expansion tank you speak of? I might need to do some technical reading on cooling systems.

 

[JNR]

Here's an excerpt I stole from another site on expansion tank install:

How to install an expansion tank

The expansion tank is installed exactly as the overflow tank is, but should be located about the level of the radiator header tank. The radiator pressure cap is replaced with a blanking cap and the expansion tank should have the proper pressure cap for your system used on it. The overflow line from the radiator filler neck is routed to the expansion tank. Hose clamps need to be used on this line, as it now becomes a pressure carrying line rather than an overflow line. The overflow line is the one on the filler neck of the expansion tank and it has a hose attached to it that vents to the atmosphere just as the conventional radiator overflow hose does. The radiator is filled to the bottom of the filler neck and the expansion tank is filled about one half full.

 

[gvr4ever]

Quoting vtecds1:
This is what I was using before . Work flawlessly in the Vegas weather with 1 puller fan. Although the price went up and the material is aluminum instead of copper.



This looks exactly like the one I got from a local parts store. I was worried about quality at first, but the fans fit right on it along with the temp sensor, zero mods required and so far I'm having good luck with it. It's way lighter then the stock unit too.