curtis
Well-known member
I'm doing a project using flat stock and c and square stuff and there's lot there but when done should be about 10 to 15 lbs total. Counting all the sheet metal as well.
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Gutted Hood Done Before?
- Thread starter CarRacer
- Start date
skivittlerjimb
Well-known member
Quoting 14u2nV:
Wouldn't it be easier to go to the gym a few times and lose the 5-10lbs? I don't get the whole fad with major weight removal programs. Put nitrogen in the tires, take out sound deadener, slim down the engine, etc. Why do something that could potentially be a safety hazard? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
Hmmm, that'd make me severely skinny, whereas now I'm just a kinda skinny. Anyways, ever try to stop 15-20 lbs. of weight going 120mph? Or lug 15-20lbs. of weight up a 3 mile long road that gains 2000' feet in elevation? Both are hard to do, and in the summer, my car does these things a few times. I'd love to make it as easy for it to do it as possible.
As for a safety hazard, no, I don't want an unsafe hood, which is part of the reason I'm posting things here, to get great input from folks like we're getting.
It's going to be a pain but I don't think the car needs a 45 lb. hood to be safe. I also have a hard time believing a set of Sparco hood pins are weaker than a single Mitsu. factory latch, but maybe.
-Jim B.
280/1000
Wouldn't it be easier to go to the gym a few times and lose the 5-10lbs? I don't get the whole fad with major weight removal programs. Put nitrogen in the tires, take out sound deadener, slim down the engine, etc. Why do something that could potentially be a safety hazard? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
Hmmm, that'd make me severely skinny, whereas now I'm just a kinda skinny. Anyways, ever try to stop 15-20 lbs. of weight going 120mph? Or lug 15-20lbs. of weight up a 3 mile long road that gains 2000' feet in elevation? Both are hard to do, and in the summer, my car does these things a few times. I'd love to make it as easy for it to do it as possible.
As for a safety hazard, no, I don't want an unsafe hood, which is part of the reason I'm posting things here, to get great input from folks like we're getting.
It's going to be a pain but I don't think the car needs a 45 lb. hood to be safe. I also have a hard time believing a set of Sparco hood pins are weaker than a single Mitsu. factory latch, but maybe.
-Jim B.
280/1000
CP
Well-known member
Quoting CarRacer:
Saving weight is often overlooked. It's not just a straight line advantage, it also helps cut down on tire, suspension, and brake wear. Ask Cy how much easier his Miata is on tires, brakes, and other parts than the Galant.
Much easier and about 800#s lighter than my GVR4 was at track weight. Front track pads only cost $125 now instead of $300+ and rotors are $30 each instead of $400+ (Stoptech 2-piece). Tires are about the same, but I never had to buy r-comps for the Galant.
Saving weight is often overlooked. It's not just a straight line advantage, it also helps cut down on tire, suspension, and brake wear. Ask Cy how much easier his Miata is on tires, brakes, and other parts than the Galant.
Much easier and about 800#s lighter than my GVR4 was at track weight. Front track pads only cost $125 now instead of $300+ and rotors are $30 each instead of $400+ (Stoptech 2-piece). Tires are about the same, but I never had to buy r-comps for the Galant.
While it won't save 'quite' as much weight, why not "swiss cheese" the bracing, so that it at least has *some* rigidity left? Removing it all seems like it would be asking for trouble opening and closing the hood and such (i.e. fukked up in no time).
I probably have one of the lightest GVR4s here, and haven't touched my hood or trunk. I would rather save my pennies and get a CF hood. I pulled off all the chassis sealant off of my mirage to stitch weld the car and it took HOURS to pull it off the chassis with a wire wheel. No chemicals could strip it either. Aircraft stripper only softened it.
slugsgomoo
Well-known member
if you do cut out all the bracing you'll need to pin it in all four corners at a minimum, and it's going to flap even more than factory /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif
go CF as OEM (and soon JDM) units are available for a fairly reasonable price.
also, if you haven't chopped the bumper support and you're worried about the hood...
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif
CR: since you've already done the bumper support, have you done an abs delete? The pump in the LF corner is pretty damn heavy. I'm guessing that if you went to a baby battery and no abs you could save double the weight of the hood bracing. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
go CF as OEM (and soon JDM) units are available for a fairly reasonable price.
also, if you haven't chopped the bumper support and you're worried about the hood...
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif
CR: since you've already done the bumper support, have you done an abs delete? The pump in the LF corner is pretty damn heavy. I'm guessing that if you went to a baby battery and no abs you could save double the weight of the hood bracing. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
Last edited:
skivittlerjimb
Well-known member
ABS deleted, front reinforcement gone, AC gone, 4WS gone, battery relo'd but old Odyssey PC680 died so we're stuck with a full size battery for now, emissions stuff gone, etc.
So, easy stuff is done, looking for more opportunities. Agree it would be much easier to buy an install a CF or fiberglass hood, and I may go this route eventually, but in the meantime I'm gathering opinions on this particular project. Since your opinion is not to do it, that's noted!
And Cy, I know a Miata weighs less... my pads cost $165 (Porterfield R4-E) and my rotors cost $65/each since I haven't found the need to go with larger brakes yet once I switched to this pad compound and Motul RBF600 fluid.
-Jim B.
280/1000
So, easy stuff is done, looking for more opportunities. Agree it would be much easier to buy an install a CF or fiberglass hood, and I may go this route eventually, but in the meantime I'm gathering opinions on this particular project. Since your opinion is not to do it, that's noted!
And Cy, I know a Miata weighs less... my pads cost $165 (Porterfield R4-E) and my rotors cost $65/each since I haven't found the need to go with larger brakes yet once I switched to this pad compound and Motul RBF600 fluid.
-Jim B.
280/1000
CarRacer
Well-known member
I haven't explored an ABS delete yet, I'd like to retain it if possible. Winters suck without it here in MN. I won't be doing a small battery either. I like the piece of mind from an orbital battery.
I'm not committed to gutting the hood yet either. Ive done it before on stock body racecars and was exploring that option here. It will flop around no question, but I'm already making so many concessions what's one more. I would probably leave the area around the latch and hinge intact. Gutting the rest and replacing with steel or aluminum would be my goal.
I'm not committed to gutting the hood yet either. Ive done it before on stock body racecars and was exploring that option here. It will flop around no question, but I'm already making so many concessions what's one more. I would probably leave the area around the latch and hinge intact. Gutting the rest and replacing with steel or aluminum would be my goal.
You can also loose like 10lbs with removal of the power window units.
prove_it
Well-known member
Wow what a long technical thread relating to saving 10 lbs of weight. Really. 10 lbs? 10? your doing all this work and won't even notice the 10 lbs being gone.
Hey since your cutting stuff off, why not cut the roof off too? It must weigh a bunch too, Oh don't forget to drill holes everywhere too. Not to mention don't forget to drill big holes in the rear bumper so air can escape and you'll go faster. That's what all those super fast civics do too. They run 10 second quarters on pump gas and street tires.
Get over it. Our cars are heavy. get over it.
Actually in the grand scheme of things our cars are actually in the middle weight class.
Buy better brakes, Better suspension, and Better tires and deal with it.
Hey since your cutting stuff off, why not cut the roof off too? It must weigh a bunch too, Oh don't forget to drill holes everywhere too. Not to mention don't forget to drill big holes in the rear bumper so air can escape and you'll go faster. That's what all those super fast civics do too. They run 10 second quarters on pump gas and street tires.
Get over it. Our cars are heavy. get over it.
Actually in the grand scheme of things our cars are actually in the middle weight class.
Buy better brakes, Better suspension, and Better tires and deal with it.
My car weighs less then a DSM, so it's not that heavy /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
prove_it
Well-known member
Our cars also weigh less than a Skyline, the GT-R, a 3000GT VR-4, the supra.
there is so so so many more.
this is based on stock cars.
oh yea and we are pretty close to evo's and sti's and they do pretty good on the track.
The car doesn't make the driver,
the driver makes the car.
there is so so so many more.
this is based on stock cars.
oh yea and we are pretty close to evo's and sti's and they do pretty good on the track.
The car doesn't make the driver,
the driver makes the car.
skivittlerjimb
Well-known member
CarRacer- you are better off w/o the ABS in a lot of ways IMO. The GVR4 ABS system isn't terribly sophisticated and with good studded or non-studded snows you should be able to beat ABS stopping distances on ice and snow. You won't be able to "stomp and steer" I suppose.
Quoting prove_it:
Wow what a long technical thread relating to saving 10 lbs of weight. Really. 10 lbs? 10? your doing all this work and won't even notice the 10 lbs being gone.
Hey since your cutting stuff off, why not cut the roof off too? It must weigh a bunch too, Oh don't forget to drill holes everywhere too. Not to mention don't forget to drill big holes in the rear bumper so air can escape and you'll go faster. That's what all those super fast civics do too. They run 10 second quarters on pump gas and street tires.
Get over it. Our cars are heavy. get over it.
Actually in the grand scheme of things our cars are actually in the middle weight class.
Buy better brakes, Better suspension, and Better tires and deal with it.
Replies like this truly make me chuckle, but OK, I'm over it, thanks to your advice. I'm over it both in caps and in lower case, so I'm _really_ over it, thanks. My car has all three of those items that you're recommending.
So since our cars our heavy this topic isn't worth discussing? Er, um, ok, but we can prattle on endlessly about JDM folding mirrors and factory OEM accessory door handle scratch guards and rear wipers and that's somehow more worthy? I know you weren't saying that, but I'm sure you get my point. Many folks who don't think weight savings efforts are useful, even in small amounts, probably wouldn't bat an eyelash at spending several hours tuning on DSM link or on their S-AFC for 5 more hp at 7,000 rpm. Each effort is to a similar goal, but one is deemed "not worth it." OK.
I suppose since the 4G63 is so almighty that it often makes 500-600hp rather easily, weight isn't important? Again, I get it, but if I can shave 10 lbs. off a hood, 12lbs. with a set of lighter wheels of equal strength, 5 lbs. off a trunk lid, 10lbs. by deleting power window motors, 20lbs. off the Barcalounger front seats, etc. it does start to add up. It's not an easy effort, but if your goal is a car for competition events only (albeit someday), the effort is ultimately worth it, especially when one of those competition venues (hillclimb) puts a premium on hp/weight ratio.
[sarcasm]Now where can I get one of those swiss cheese rear bumpers anyway, preferably in CF, and make mine the RS version please, no make that AMG Monte Carlo. Group buy anyone?[/sarcasm]
-Jim B.
280/1000
Quoting prove_it:
Wow what a long technical thread relating to saving 10 lbs of weight. Really. 10 lbs? 10? your doing all this work and won't even notice the 10 lbs being gone.
Hey since your cutting stuff off, why not cut the roof off too? It must weigh a bunch too, Oh don't forget to drill holes everywhere too. Not to mention don't forget to drill big holes in the rear bumper so air can escape and you'll go faster. That's what all those super fast civics do too. They run 10 second quarters on pump gas and street tires.
Get over it. Our cars are heavy. get over it.
Actually in the grand scheme of things our cars are actually in the middle weight class.
Buy better brakes, Better suspension, and Better tires and deal with it.
Replies like this truly make me chuckle, but OK, I'm over it, thanks to your advice. I'm over it both in caps and in lower case, so I'm _really_ over it, thanks. My car has all three of those items that you're recommending.
So since our cars our heavy this topic isn't worth discussing? Er, um, ok, but we can prattle on endlessly about JDM folding mirrors and factory OEM accessory door handle scratch guards and rear wipers and that's somehow more worthy? I know you weren't saying that, but I'm sure you get my point. Many folks who don't think weight savings efforts are useful, even in small amounts, probably wouldn't bat an eyelash at spending several hours tuning on DSM link or on their S-AFC for 5 more hp at 7,000 rpm. Each effort is to a similar goal, but one is deemed "not worth it." OK.
I suppose since the 4G63 is so almighty that it often makes 500-600hp rather easily, weight isn't important? Again, I get it, but if I can shave 10 lbs. off a hood, 12lbs. with a set of lighter wheels of equal strength, 5 lbs. off a trunk lid, 10lbs. by deleting power window motors, 20lbs. off the Barcalounger front seats, etc. it does start to add up. It's not an easy effort, but if your goal is a car for competition events only (albeit someday), the effort is ultimately worth it, especially when one of those competition venues (hillclimb) puts a premium on hp/weight ratio.
[sarcasm]Now where can I get one of those swiss cheese rear bumpers anyway, preferably in CF, and make mine the RS version please, no make that AMG Monte Carlo. Group buy anyone?[/sarcasm]
-Jim B.
280/1000
You're absolutely right Jim. 10 pounds doesn't seem like much and nobody would even notice the difference, but a little weight removed from many areas does add up. As the racers say 'don't try to remove 100 pounds from 1 spot, remove 1 pound from 100 spots.' It's your car and you're doing the labor so I don't understand why everyone is jumping on you about this. That said, in my opinion, the ABS is a perfect candidate for weight removal: it's a heavy chunk mounted outside the wheelbase and doesn't work very well anyway.
Prove it's red neck mentality is gonna keep him slow and heavy.
slugsgomoo
Well-known member
James, honestly the diagonal two channel abs crap that's on these cars isn't really worth it. I'm guessing given some of your dirt experience and the like you're pretty familiar with modulating & threshold braking, both of which produce phenomenally better results than relying on garbage ancient ABS.
In the dry I've measured significant stopping distance improvements (not 100% scientific obviously). In the snow I've never had an issue, but then again I'm not a f***ing moron and i don't stand on the brakes mid corner. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hsugh.gif
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
In the dry I've measured significant stopping distance improvements (not 100% scientific obviously). In the snow I've never had an issue, but then again I'm not a f***ing moron and i don't stand on the brakes mid corner. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hsugh.gif
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Olson
Well-known member
Quoting prove_it:
Wow what a long technical thread relating to saving 10 lbs of weight. Really. 10 lbs? 10? your doing all this work and won't even notice the 10 lbs being gone.
Hey since your cutting stuff off, why not cut the roof off too? It must weigh a bunch too, Oh don't forget to drill holes everywhere too. Not to mention don't forget to drill big holes in the rear bumper so air can escape and you'll go faster. That's what all those super fast civics do too. They run 10 second quarters on pump gas and street tires.
Get over it. Our cars are heavy. get over it.
Actually in the grand scheme of things our cars are actually in the middle weight class.
Buy better brakes, Better suspension, and Better tires and deal with it.
All i have to say is STFU
really what did this comment have anything to do with weight saving at all. Really you have no idea what a heavy car will do on a track or even in a drag enviroment.
as someone else said also a little weight here and there adds up alot over time. I guess all the big dogs out there in the world of Nascar, WRC, Drag TA, Hill climbing, F1, Mud bogging, motorcycle racing , and alot more out there i guess all those weight saving they went thro was pointless.
wow just wow
Wow what a long technical thread relating to saving 10 lbs of weight. Really. 10 lbs? 10? your doing all this work and won't even notice the 10 lbs being gone.
Hey since your cutting stuff off, why not cut the roof off too? It must weigh a bunch too, Oh don't forget to drill holes everywhere too. Not to mention don't forget to drill big holes in the rear bumper so air can escape and you'll go faster. That's what all those super fast civics do too. They run 10 second quarters on pump gas and street tires.
Get over it. Our cars are heavy. get over it.
Actually in the grand scheme of things our cars are actually in the middle weight class.
Buy better brakes, Better suspension, and Better tires and deal with it.
All i have to say is STFU
really what did this comment have anything to do with weight saving at all. Really you have no idea what a heavy car will do on a track or even in a drag enviroment.
as someone else said also a little weight here and there adds up alot over time. I guess all the big dogs out there in the world of Nascar, WRC, Drag TA, Hill climbing, F1, Mud bogging, motorcycle racing , and alot more out there i guess all those weight saving they went thro was pointless.
wow just wow
prove_it
Well-known member
I thought this thread started as a ricer thread. I was unaware your building an all out race car.
By the way running high 11's and mid 12's is fine with me. It's nice being fast and having all the nice things in life. I used to have a 12 sec civic that had no interior, no nothing. After two years, yea you grow out of it. My penis is big enough that I don't need to try to be the fastest by any means necessary and show off.
By the way running high 11's and mid 12's is fine with me. It's nice being fast and having all the nice things in life. I used to have a 12 sec civic that had no interior, no nothing. After two years, yea you grow out of it. My penis is big enough that I don't need to try to be the fastest by any means necessary and show off.
Who said anything about 'being the fastest by any means' or 'showing off'? He's not building the car to try and be the fastest stright line GVR4 in the world. He specifically said he's planning to use it for multiple events including hillclimbs, where weight makes a big difference. Not to mention that if you can remove as much weight as possible from a car you can then add ballast in specific places to improve the balance and handling of the car. And while all of this can make you faster it also makes the car much more fun to drive even if you're not the fastest car on the track. And isn't that why any of us have these cars, because we enjoy driving them? So you've had fast cars in the past but now you're all grown up? Good for you. If you're just going to criticize and not add anything constructive to the conversation then you should do the grown up thing and not post at all.
hey CarRacer, theres like 2 junk galants at the U-Pull R Parts in Rosemount right now. I'm getting a hood over there right now and I'm going to be playing around with it. This hood is going to be strictly be used for AutoX and Drag only. I will post up pics of my ideas later.
