GSX_TC
Well-known member
Thanks, because the engine builder and the tuner suggested it. Before it was making smoke under WOT and now I hardly see any smoke. So I know it's breathing a little better now.
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GSX_TC's Galant VR4 Build Thread #550/2000 (Samara)
- Thread starter GSX_TC
- Start date
EHmotorsports
Well-known member
elimination of the PCV side will hinder off boost evacuation of oil vapor. I can understand the side ports but what I am referring to is the PCV port closest to the throttle body.
fuel
Well-known member
I can imagine a fine oil mist is now going to spray on the passenger side of the windshield, but I guess who cares cause looks purdy?
prove_it
Well-known member
It will help shed water in the rain...
Jesus_Negros
Well-known member
Did I miss something or does your engine bay look like the car was BG?
coyotes
Well-known member
looks black to me.
shouldn't a catch can setup be hooked to vacuum?
shouldn't a catch can setup be hooked to vacuum?
fuel
Well-known member
it's just the poor image manipulation.
prove_it
Well-known member
Quoting coyotes:
looks black to me.
shouldn't a catch can setup be hooked to vacuum?
The vacuum is an assist at loads with a smaller vent system. Also stock systems must have a vacuum to keep the air self contained, which is an emissions concern. With a vented box you don't need vacuum as the vapors will just vent as needed if the outlet is big enough.
looks black to me.
shouldn't a catch can setup be hooked to vacuum?
The vacuum is an assist at loads with a smaller vent system. Also stock systems must have a vacuum to keep the air self contained, which is an emissions concern. With a vented box you don't need vacuum as the vapors will just vent as needed if the outlet is big enough.
Quoting fuel:
I can imagine a fine oil mist is now going to spray on the passenger side of the windshield, but I guess who cares cause looks purdy?
The whole point of an air/oil separator is to do just that, separate the oil. It should be retained by the filtering element inside the can
I can imagine a fine oil mist is now going to spray on the passenger side of the windshield, but I guess who cares cause looks purdy?
The whole point of an air/oil separator is to do just that, separate the oil. It should be retained by the filtering element inside the can
EHmotorsports
Well-known member
stock or performance DD use. all out race cars don't care due to the fact they are at or almost at WOT the entire time. this car is not a race car.
EHmotorsports
Well-known member
Quoting LIV4PSI:
Quoting fuel:
I can imagine a fine oil mist is now going to spray on the passenger side of the windshield, but I guess who cares cause looks purdy?
The whole point of an air/oil separator is to do just that, separate the oil. It should be retained by the filtering element inside the can
\
eventually the filter will catch the oil and spray as what Fuel was indicating.
Quoting fuel:
I can imagine a fine oil mist is now going to spray on the passenger side of the windshield, but I guess who cares cause looks purdy?
The whole point of an air/oil separator is to do just that, separate the oil. It should be retained by the filtering element inside the can
\
eventually the filter will catch the oil and spray as what Fuel was indicating.
transparentdsm
Well-known member
and the baffling.
edit: as in wont the baffling keep the oil from coming out as long as he drains the catch can?
edit: as in wont the baffling keep the oil from coming out as long as he drains the catch can?
Last edited:
minneSNOWta
Well-known member
Hey Mike. Just trying to be constructive here, but give this article a read: DSM PCV System .
You've got big lines, which is a great start. Since you've done away with the PCV valve, the diagram below is probably the best configuration for your needs. With 3 lines, you should probably add the optional second line to get enough relief. Cap the filters if you can or else have the holes welded shut. Oil that stays in the can is better than all over your engine bay, which could start a fire. Lots of work on this car and would hate to see it ruined.
</font><blockquote><font class="small">Quote:</font><hr />
PCV Setup #3 – Maximum Pressure Relief
The following diagram shows one possible arrangement for providing maximum pressure relief. The most common arrangement would be 2 lines coming off the VC and a single line going from the catch can to the turbo inlet, although the number and size of lines will vary from car to car. If you are going this route, you should already know how much pressure you are seeing in the crankcase under varying conditions, and should be able to design the proper setup for your situation.
<hr /></blockquote><font class="post">
</font><blockquote><font class="small">Quote:</font><hr />
Note: Regardless of the number and size of lines exiting the VC, they should still lead to the intake snorkel for the vacuum assistance that the turbo provides, rather than just venting to atmosphere.
<hr /></blockquote><font class="post">
You've got big lines, which is a great start. Since you've done away with the PCV valve, the diagram below is probably the best configuration for your needs. With 3 lines, you should probably add the optional second line to get enough relief. Cap the filters if you can or else have the holes welded shut. Oil that stays in the can is better than all over your engine bay, which could start a fire. Lots of work on this car and would hate to see it ruined.
</font><blockquote><font class="small">Quote:</font><hr />
PCV Setup #3 – Maximum Pressure Relief
The following diagram shows one possible arrangement for providing maximum pressure relief. The most common arrangement would be 2 lines coming off the VC and a single line going from the catch can to the turbo inlet, although the number and size of lines will vary from car to car. If you are going this route, you should already know how much pressure you are seeing in the crankcase under varying conditions, and should be able to design the proper setup for your situation.
<hr /></blockquote><font class="post">
</font><blockquote><font class="small">Quote:</font><hr />
Note: Regardless of the number and size of lines exiting the VC, they should still lead to the intake snorkel for the vacuum assistance that the turbo provides, rather than just venting to atmosphere.
<hr /></blockquote><font class="post">
GSTwithPSI
Well-known member
There are a lot of variables here, one of the most important being the internal design of the catch can. If it has some internal baffles, that will aid in keeping oil in the catch can, rather than exiting through the vent filters. Also, the amount of boost, and how often the car is driven under boost will greatly affect how hard the PCV system is taxed. Does that can have any internal baffling, Mike?
As mentioned, even if Mike vents the catch can back to the intake, that won't alleviate the conditions the system sees under boost. The only way to keep oil in the can indefinitely is to seal it. That's why I've never been a fan of vented catch can setups. I think they are great for race cars and such, but not so much for a street car. Although, if you keep an eye on the oil levels in the catch can, maintain the filters, and keep them free of excess dirt and oil, I think the setup you have will work just fine. You'll just need to babysit a bit more than you would a sealed setup...Unless you want an engine fire on your hands as minneSNOWta mentioned. No doubt, this setup will give you plenty if pressure relief. But, if this is your DD Mike, you may want to consider sealing the can as others have mentioned.
Overall, the car looks great and has come a long way since I first saw it on Craigslist back in SoCAL. I can appreciate the time and effort you've put in.
As mentioned, even if Mike vents the catch can back to the intake, that won't alleviate the conditions the system sees under boost. The only way to keep oil in the can indefinitely is to seal it. That's why I've never been a fan of vented catch can setups. I think they are great for race cars and such, but not so much for a street car. Although, if you keep an eye on the oil levels in the catch can, maintain the filters, and keep them free of excess dirt and oil, I think the setup you have will work just fine. You'll just need to babysit a bit more than you would a sealed setup...Unless you want an engine fire on your hands as minneSNOWta mentioned. No doubt, this setup will give you plenty if pressure relief. But, if this is your DD Mike, you may want to consider sealing the can as others have mentioned.
Overall, the car looks great and has come a long way since I first saw it on Craigslist back in SoCAL. I can appreciate the time and effort you've put in.
fuel
Well-known member
Quoting transparentdsm:
and the baffling.
edit: as in wont the baffling keep the oil from coming out as long as he drains the catch can?
baffling doesn't stop fine oil mist, which will get through those filters anyway.
and the baffling.
edit: as in wont the baffling keep the oil from coming out as long as he drains the catch can?
baffling doesn't stop fine oil mist, which will get through those filters anyway.
ApexHunter
Well-known member
Mike, that catch can and valve cover both look really, really nice.
Thanks for that article MinneSNOWta. It really does a great job explaining the hows and whys.
Mike's setup is a great example of a more race oriented setup. For systems that do not pull air out of the crankcase during off boost operation, it is probably a good idea to keep an eye on the condition of the oil, as it is likely to be contaminated by combustion by-products much more quickly. If you have a dedicated race car, this should be a non-issue, as ideally it would see oil changes after each event. If this is not you, a used oil analysis (or several) would be a smart move to try to gauge the oil change interval based on how long it takes to dilute the oil.
Baffling is good, and a filtering media to further separate air and oil is also a good idea.
This could be a mesh like above, or that cotton gauze filter like those on top of Mike's will separate air and oil as well. However, those little filters will collect oil, and all that air/gas rushing through will force the residual oil out into the engine bay. Hence the advent of these little guys:
Thanks for that article MinneSNOWta. It really does a great job explaining the hows and whys.
Mike's setup is a great example of a more race oriented setup. For systems that do not pull air out of the crankcase during off boost operation, it is probably a good idea to keep an eye on the condition of the oil, as it is likely to be contaminated by combustion by-products much more quickly. If you have a dedicated race car, this should be a non-issue, as ideally it would see oil changes after each event. If this is not you, a used oil analysis (or several) would be a smart move to try to gauge the oil change interval based on how long it takes to dilute the oil.
Baffling is good, and a filtering media to further separate air and oil is also a good idea.
This could be a mesh like above, or that cotton gauze filter like those on top of Mike's will separate air and oil as well. However, those little filters will collect oil, and all that air/gas rushing through will force the residual oil out into the engine bay. Hence the advent of these little guys:
Romanova
Well-known member
Valve cover looks nice. Was that the one I sold you awhile back?
GSX_TC
Well-known member
I dropped something inside of it before I put it together and it was a pain in the ass to get it back out. I Believe it's triple or double baffled inside. So far no oil has been misted or sprayed in the bay or window. And I'm always racing the car during the nights. I'll constantly check the level of oil in the tank and the condition of the filters too, thanks for the tip guys.
