getting (close) to 400hp. what's next?

[EfiniX]

What's the process for replacing the banjo bolt? I assume an AN fitting of some sort, but wouldn't this require a modified fuel rail as well to mate the AN line to?

C

 

[prove_it]

Here is a link to modern performance, they have a real nice kit that works perfect. They also have it in stainless line too. Will bolt on to the OEM filter.

clicky

 

[turbofonz]

Yeah, the main important pieces are the fuel rail adapter (-6 to 2 bolts for fuel rail), and the 12x1.5 (i believe) to -6 adapter. IF you have hose laying around, you can get the fittings too, but that MAP kit seems like a good price assuming you don't have extra hose laying around.

If you know how to weld you can weld an AL -6 fitting to the fuel rail for prob $10-15 less than the adapter, order up some line and fittings all thru summit or jegs for cheaper, all up to you. The Map kit seems hard to beat though.

Againt, not saying these are the ways to go, just my personal opinion. Everyone has different mind sets when it comes to modding cars.

 

[EfiniX]

Thanks. I suppose we all have a way to get to the same place. I'm always keen to replace parts on a car w/ 175,000mi.

 

[MellowVR4]

Quoting turbofonz:
I personally wouldn't touch the FPR or fuel lines... Injectors and pump, that's it. Well... Removing the banjo fitting from fuel filter to fuel rail, replacing that line is a good restriction removal, but how needed, I don't know. I don't think you'd have an issue with your power goals.

I don't run an AFPR on either car, and have had a fuel lab AFPR sitting in my garage for over 2 years now.



Wouldnt the fuel pressure be too high then?? doesnt it go, with a 190 walbro pump your stock fpr would be able to regulate that, and 255 you need a afpr?? i never knew that the stock fpr could regulate the 255 pressure? now im confused. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

 

[LIV4PSI]

It will run a little rich at idle, but it's not the end of the world that some people act like it is. Drivability is still fine, maybe just a small decrease in mpg.

 

[turbofonz]

I think fuel pressure over run is a much larger issue with 2g cars than ours. Both of my cars have no issue tuning the fuel trims to be right where they should be, and widebands read in line. I should put the gauge on my 1g and see what it reads. If you are handy with dsmlink, I don't see any issues.

 

[prove_it]

2G cars due have a bigger overrun issue as the return port is smaller. I highly recommend the FPR. Like mentioned if your good with LINK you can "work" around the issue. It's not considered proper though. You can have issues trying to dial in all the base numbers. Even over on the LINK forum and tuners, using a stock FPR and a 255 pump is considered wrong. I have tried not to use a regulator before just to see. My story is that it was impossible to get a smooth idle and get the trims to hold more consistent. It ran, it pulled, it worked, but really it was not a very good DD. Some have luck, some don't.

 

[TomN]

Only thing this car needs to be in the 400hp range is a good tuner and meth injection. I would personally convert to speed density but its not needed.

 

[EfiniX]

well I'm skipping meth, but I figure with everything else, I should get there. Between EHMotorsports, the help I've gotten from English Racing, and the new wideband I am installing when I get back home, I should be close. I think I will install a FPR, not so much because I think I need one to get to 400hp, but because the fuel system is the one part of the car that hasn't been improved over the years (save for the walbro pump).

Right now I'm running 20psi because, without the wideband, I'm a bit sketchy on upping the boost as I don't see how I could properly tune with a narrowband.

Thanks to all for your input and please, any more advice would be greatly appreciated!

 

what's next?




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[CutlassJim]

Quoting turbofonz:


Back when I had an Aeromotive on my car, I had to mess with the screw numerous times to get it right (and it would loosen) and the car developed an extended crank issue. This was years ago and I might have figured it all out but I took it off and honestly never looked back.



My car had an extended crank issue with an Aeromotive on it too. I went back to a stock 1G auto unit and the problem went right away. I can't see having an adjustable regulator if you're never going to adjust it from stock anyway. Kinda like adjustable cam gears set at zero. If I had an adjustable FPR I'd run 50psi base pressure and make my pump hate it's life.