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Getting angry with car stalling
- Thread starter deez
- Start date
Question in reference to setting timing....which plug do I ground to set the timing? Its it the one by the intake in front of the brake fluid reservoir with the yellow wire or the one above the clutch reservoir on the firewall?
Its the big oval connector, usually with a dust cover you have to remove, and one small pin inside you can clip to. You do NOT want the female spade terminal, which is the +12 volts to the fuelpump!
Yes, if a few extra degrees on the lower maps helps, I can try to design a chip like that for you.
Okay, so the car is running better with more timing, and so far no knock which is odd because it used to have knock. But it still has stalled 3 times since doing that work yesterday, which is much better. One thing I noticed when setting the timing was with the timing plug grounded, the idle was a little rough. Keep in mind the car has 264/272 HKS cams. It would idle smooth for a few seconds, stumble, idle smooth, stumble, etc. Now is that something I should use the BISS to smooth out, or is that just cause of the cams?
Do nt forget to check your engine grounds. Makes a big diffrence sometimes.
1990ggsxnj
Well-known member
This is gunna sound stupid...but are you SURE you have no boost leaks? Even something that seems tight can cause a leak at vacuum. Without a test, there's no way of knowing.
Normally more advance would probably create more knock in this situation, but double checking things never hurt. Hope you get this fixed, man.
Normally more advance would probably create more knock in this situation, but double checking things never hurt. Hope you get this fixed, man.
GVR-4
Well-known member
I had the same problem and I deleted the FIAV and coolant lines and checked the throttle closed switch and the car idles much better now and hasn't stalled yet.
johnnyRacer
Well-known member
Just did a log; I'm having similar issues. My idle is varying from 700-1100. My timing is irratic at -2deg to +5deg this is at idle. Finally, at idle I'm showing tps 12.1%. Tomorrow I physically check the tps, throttle plate, and timing.
So I am back to trying to solve this issue, and I replaced the ISC, reset the ECU, drove it for a couple days, and no help. Tomorrow I will reset the BISS. If that doesn't work, someone can buy a very clean white VR4 that is tastefully modded.
atc250r
Staff member
I looked through this thread and didn't see you having done the base idle setting as per the VFAQ.
John
John
atc250r
Staff member
The BISS is part of it but there's more to it than just turning the screw until you are happy with it. Go to www.vfaq.com and follow the directions there for setting base idle.
John
John
Quoting deez:
Okay, so the car is running better with more timing, and so far no knock which is odd because it used to have knock.
What base timing are you running now, as checked with a timing light? Have you tried more, several degrees more temporarily without getting into a lot of boost? I still think that more timing on the lower rpm's on the lower maps might be the answer.
Okay, so the car is running better with more timing, and so far no knock which is odd because it used to have knock.
What base timing are you running now, as checked with a timing light? Have you tried more, several degrees more temporarily without getting into a lot of boost? I still think that more timing on the lower rpm's on the lower maps might be the answer.
Try even more, to see if it helps with the stalling. I can make new timing maps that only have more on the lower maps if that helps the problem.
So I grounded things out and reset the BISS, and sure enough, it was off by about a turn and a half. Thats odd, because I have set that before. One thing that seemed odd was how easy the biss turned. My thought is that the o-ring is shot and not giving resistance to the screw turning. I will replace that soon. Anyhow, with that and pulling a bit of fuel out of idle, not one stall or attempt to stall on my drive. I hope this means its fixed /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
atc250r
Staff member
If you want a quick, cheap, and easy way to "fix" the loose BISS just put a dap of silicone on top of it once you're sure you've got it dialed in.
John
John
