fuel rail

[prove_it]

The threads don't seal those type of fittings. Only the part that's threaded into the rail needs tape/sealant. The actual fittings that have the 45 degree "bubble" don't need tape as the seal is at the tip of the fitting, not the threads. Putting tape on these can cause an improper seal.


PM sent by the way.

 

[clevr4]

Okay so productive use of my cell phone out in town. Bought 5 feet of braided -6 , a 90 degree -6 , sent money to prove for the fuel rail. Will YouTube injector transplant. And one more question.... I have a pressure gauge on my rail. Is a gauge useful to have. Mine erase 35-40, but that information doesn't mean much to me /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif

 

[prove_it]

That gauge reads fuel pressure. Gauges are important if your messing with the fuel pressure and changing or even setting it up. Personally I have one in my engine bay, but it's not a great idea. They can break and spill gas out, but it depends on who you ask. Chances are its tapped into your rail and since your replacing the rail then you'll need to mount it elsewhere. The regulator should have a small plug in it that you can install the gauge to instead.

Once set-up you'll need to pinch off the vacuum line running to the regulator and check the pressure reading. As long as the vehicle is tuned for stock fuel pressure then make sure it's reading about 37-38psi while the engine is idling with the vacuum line pinched closed.

Again, youtube will have a video showing adjusting fuel pressure. Higher pressure runs the car richer, lower pressure leans it out. Don't mess with it though, as the ecu will need to be corrected to compensate for the change. Long story short, be sure it reads the 37-38psi like mentioned.

I keep mentioning youtube videos as I'm a visual learner, so I'm hoping it will help you to make more sense out of it, rather than read some lengthy posts about what to do.

 

[clevr4]

yeah youtube will help me. I just watched a video on 750cc injectors put into a Honda.... I thought there would be more of a process. so in a nut shell I can just pull them out of my rail and install in to your(my new) rail without changing any grommets or anything? I guess I should get new grommets for my injectors anyways. I felt them and they were still fresh, but it doesn't hurt to change them out. Thanks man

 

[prove_it]

I would try and get new ones. If they are FIC injectors then you can get the right seals from FIC. You got the right attitude. Do it right the first time. Makes me proud.

 

[GSTwithPSI]

1. Your fuel rail is trash. Buy the one Ryan is offering and start over (I think you said you already did this).

2. If I were you, I'd just buy this and be done: click . Judging by how the fuel system was set up thus far, I wouldn't trust that janky-ass looking welded fitting shown on the FPR.

3.Take a picture of the line where it meets the fuel filter. I don't see one under the hood, so I can only hope to god it's mounted somewhere remote. It wouldn't suprise me if the fitting there was wrong too.

4. Looks like the metal clip on your TPS sensor is missing. You need to find a new one. If the TPS comes unplugged, it could present a safety concern.

5. Make an initial fuel pressure adjustment with the car off, and the fuel pump energized via the activation terminal I pointed out in my first post. This will allow you to check for leaks, as well as get the fuel pressure in the ballpark. After that, use the procedure Ryan suggested.

6. Take the tape off the wire going to the injector clip, and verify it was soldered. Again, judging from the work I've seen thus far, I doubt the PO bothered to make a proper solder connection. You'll need to address this if you value the longevity of the motor.

This list is just a start. From the engine pic you posted, I can see some other sh*t that you'll need to address as well. If you want a list of these things, I can post them up. Your choice.

 

[FlyingEagle]

I soldered in new injector connectors with pigtails.

This is the thread located elsewhere (I fiddled with the Cyclone here on the site), where I did this:

http://www.4g61t.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=64&t=12968&start=90

Look for something like this:




Hope that helps you with a visual.
If you find more jankiness, invited over a techie who can solder and make short work of it.

 

[clevr4]

Thanks guys, if you see something say something /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/haha.gif no but really, I want this thing right and I want to learn as much as possible. I know you all have more than knowledge to create a super reliable 2500hp vr4. I can only do one project at a time. And I have some available funds to tackle them, my issue is time. But this fuel leak is really bumming me because the thing runs great...just a ticking time bomb

 

[GSTwithPSI]

Quoting GSTwithPSI:
Is your FPR actually mounted to something, or is it just hanging out?

1. Your idle switch is unplugged. Find the wire and plug it back in.

2. Ebay bleeder type boost controller. Garbage. Throw it where it belongs; in the trash.

3. I don't know what turbo that is, but it looks like you have a brake line or something supplying it with oil from the head. If whatever turbo that is requires a restricted oil supply, you're effectively over-supplying it (since I doubt there's a restrictor installed in the line you currently have). Alternatively, if that turbo requires an oil feed from the OFH rather than the head, you're under-supplying it. You'll need to identify the type of turbo, and then decide if it's being supplied properly with oil.

4. The turbo coolant supply line on the lower front of the T-stat housing was deleted by stuffing a bolt into the hose and then applying a hose clamp. Although this fix works, it's not the method I'd use to delete the line. The prefered method would be to weld, or plug the nipple itself.

5. Coolant overflow line looks like it's draining onto the ground. Maybe there's a tank down there, but I can't see it. If it's draining onto the ground, that's bad for obvious reasons.

6. Your plug wires look like a rat's nest. In order to keep from inducing spark in the wrong cylinders, you should separate wires 1 and 4 from 2 and 3.
Like so:

7. Nipple on top of your wastegate...What's that go to?

That's what I can see. If you have questions, just ask.


Edit:

Here's a perfect example of how plug wires should be routed. Taken straight from FlyingEagle's thread:

 

[clevr4]

Thanks man. I'll be able to ask more intelligent questions after I check those things in person. But what should my wastegate nipple connect to? And what would be a good fix for my turbo situation? Delete that boost controller and install a electronic one? I always that boost controller was kind of pointless, how would you know what you're setting the boost at? Guy said it was at 18lbs of boost but I've never seen it go over 15 on my gauge. What are the effects of over oiling your turbo? I can understand why under oiling is bad. Thanks for the input

 

[prove_it]

Over oiling will blow out the oil seals that seal the shaft. You usually will get big puffs of smoke out the exhaust once you left off the throttle after a WOT run. Also it can fill your intercooler with oil. Neither is good.

I agree about fixing those issues, but let's keep this thread on track with the fuel system at this time. It's best to focus on one issue at a time so you don't create other issues or miss a proper repair. Don't go ripping into a bunch of things at once. For now the turbo is boosting fine so put that down the list to address.

Feel free to start an other thread about a "build" thread so it's more convenient to have a bunch of random issues and discussion on what to do.

 

[diambo4life]

Be glad the car didn't catch on fire.

 

[FlyingEagle]

Just for the sake of reference, please realize that my plug wires were to illustrate that stock 4g6X plug wires can be used with a Cyclone dual runner setup, with stock Cyclone manifold mounting of the coil packs/bracketry. The wires shown are separated neatly, which is what should be taken from those photos.
Do note that they change positions when routing the cables to clear the runner actuator vacuum diaphragm better, and the rest you can read through that thread. It all fits under the cover now and each wire got wire loom for color blending effect.
BOT

 

[G]

Looks good, you need some NGK POWER wires though. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[clevr4]

Haven't been able to work on car or even get under the hood.. parts are slowly coming in for the fix. Got the injector seals in the mail today, that should be a fun project

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