Fixing up 1292

[gvr4ever]

I had a centerforce clutch were the friction material just came off of the disk and prevented the clutch from releasing. It's probably a rare failure, but it happened to me. Usually a worn clutch slips from being worn, but it is possible to have a clutch failure that prevents shifting.

I would suggesting looking at the slave and master clutch cylinders because that is almost always the cause of a weak clutch pedal that isn't releasing properly. A stainless steel clutch line can help as well.

I don't see a problem with the ACT Flywheel. I personally hated the ACT 2600. Others don't mind it at all. I've read that the ACT 2900 feels lighter, but I don't personally have any experience with it. Maybe others can chime in. I can no longer recommend a centerforce. Good pedal feel, but mine was never abused, never raced, never clutch dropped, and it just feel apart anyway.

Overall ACT clutches are good for the money, but I'd personally probably lean to Exedy. The stage 1 street disk isn't enough for the power, but a stage 2 should be. A 6 puck would definitely be. I mainly like it because of how easy it is to push in. Almost stock like, and I never stalled it, even when I first got in it. Took about a day to get used to the fast release point.

 

[iceman69510]

Yes, the clutch system condition could be a cause. A year ago my daily driver was having issues with full disengagement. Turned out the master was all gunked up and failing. Not entirely my fault as I have only owned the car a couple years, but looked like the fluid had never been changed in 18 years.

I would bleed it and make sure you are getting full travel. Memory is a little fuzzy, but I think 11 mm of travel for the clutch fork at the slave cylinder is normal.

The ACT Street lite flywheels are nice. I have had them in 2 GVR4s. William (gvr4ever) was agreeing. He just left out the word street I believe.

 

[yeti]

So I lifted the car up and check the slave cylinder, I didn’t really know how to check the master other than inspect for leaks, it looks good.

The slave on the other hand was not bolted down all the way and was flexing when the pedal was pushed, bled the system and tightened that bolt now I can actually get in and out of gear but it’s still a bit rough. But much better.

Are you saying to measure how far the little arm is pushing the clutch fork? It should be pushing it 11mm?
No less?

Thanks everyone for the tips and advice

 

[gvr4ever]

Just thought of something. If you end up changing the clutch. It sounds like you are. Buy a new clutch fork. Don't know if you have an original or not, but they revised the part and made it stronger. The stock one flexed (especially with a heavier clutch) and my original one actually broke in half.

Either way, it's been sitting for 7 years, and the part isn't that much. Having to drop the transmission again for a clutch fork suuuucks.

 

[yeti]

Indeed good to know the one supplied with clutch is garbage, so order an OEM clutch fork and make sure it’s the revised part 🍻.

Just hopped down and checked the master under the dash cause I’m dumb and was looking at the reservoir, it’s corroded as sh*t so I’m gonna replace that in hopes of better shifting before i Drop the cash for a clutch.

This is the same part as OEM correct? Same part number

click

 

[yeti]

So I’m registered and driving around, afrs are dangerous at 9.8-10.2 WOT ( only went wot a few times to check ) knock sensor was going crazy at 5k and lost lots of power. ( stock boost gauge )

Getting tuned on Tuesday hopefully.

My main problem is the shifting, sometimes its not bad , other times it’s absolutely horrid and won’t let me into gear.

I’ve ordered mb555133 master clutch cylinder as that’s the same part number as OEM so hoping that works.

Also ordered a SS clutch line master to slave

I really don’t want to just throw money at the car though, I’ve checked the pedal assembly and that’s rock solid I think, will check the throw length of the slave..

It could be Fork wear or a very worn flywheel and clutch ( worst case scenario )

I guess my best bet is to replace everything before the clutch/flywheel and fork/pivot ball

Also my TOB makes a tapping noise at idle and goes away when clutch is pushed in. That’s a sure sign of a worn TOB? So I need to get into the clutch area anyways correct?

Sorry once again for the dumb questions hopefully they are understandable.

Also should I just quit being a B word and pull the tranny to inspect clutch?

 

[GotInsulin]

Transmissions are relatively easy to pull and inspect vs the amount of money and aggravation they can cause by not pulling them in the first place to diag. Put it up, pull the trans, and work backwards through the car that way.

 

[yeti]

Got it, today was the last time driving around.

I took it to the mechanic that did all the work to reseal turbo oil return line, seems that the welds on the actual return line are leaking.

Got tuned at 21psi , speed density , e85, jfc my car has never pulled this hard.

Just ordered new SS clutch line, Clutch, PP, and flywheel will be here on Saturday


~Ordering~ OEM TOB, new pivot ball, new competition clutch fork, new slave cylinder, new master cylinder,
ANYTHING IM MISSING THAT COULD BE CAUSING MY DISENGAGEMENT ISSUES?

Also new flywheel and PP bolts should I just get grade 8 at hardware store? Or cheaper/easier to order online?

Also I called Mitsubishi and they said that the GVr4 uses a different clutch master cylinder than 1g dsms.

OUR MASTER CLUTCH CYLINDER PART NUMBER IS MB012660

Opposed to 1g dsm MB555133

Can anyone confirm this? Any searches through the forums seem to indicate we can use a 1g Master cylinder


Also things that concern me are all this talk of shimming the pivot ball and or clutch fork, I shouldn’t have to do any of that getting a new everything correct?

 

[CutlassJim]

IIRC The difference between the 1G and GVR4 clutch master is the height of the reservoir with the 1G being taller/holding more fluid. Most people just go with 1G unit.

You wouldn't even be able to get even remotely close to the flywheel bolts at a hardware store. Also a small difference to note is Grade 8 indicates STD size hardware. The metric equivalent would be 12.9. Either way go OEM/ARP all the way with hardware like that.

 

[JNR]

Actually, class 10.9 is similar to Grade 8, fwiw. Class 12.9 is more like a Grade 9 SAE.

 

[yeti]

</font><blockquote><font class="small">Quoting CutlassJim:</font><hr />
IIRC The difference between the 1G and GVR4 clutch master is the height of the reservoir with the 1G being taller/holding more fluid. Most people just go with 1G unit.

You wouldn't even be able to get even remotely close to the flywheel bolts at a hardware store. Also a small difference to note is Grade 8 indicates STD size hardware. The metric equivalent would be 12.9. Either way go OEM/ARP all the way with hardware like that.

<hr /></blockquote><font class="post">

Sweet thanks a bunch!!!
I’m gonna order 1g master cylinder and oem flywheel/PP bolts, along with everything else that has to do with my disengagement issues

ALSO

My car has had an idle surge for 10 yrs ( probably longer) numerous TB have been swapped out. Along with sensors

I’m pretty sure I checked along time ago and my wiring to my ISC is not behaving correctly ( NOT SURE ON THIS)

Just ordered the fiav block off plate to completely eliminate the ISC as well. Because fork it, I don’t get a steady idle when warm or cold, I have to apply gas to keep car from stalling when cold starting AND it takes 10-15 times of cranking to get it to even start ( ON e85 , about 3-4 times of cranking and letting prime on 91)
{the hard start may be a fuel pressure thing}

But anyways I figure fork it, there’s no way in hell my idle could get worse and if there’s a chance I can get it to idle around 1000 rpm consistently while warm I’ll be beyond stoked.

 

[iceman69510]

Quoting CutlassJim:
IIRC The difference between the 1G and GVR4 clutch master is the height of the reservoir with the 1G being taller/holding more fluid. Most people just go with 1G unit.



This is 100% correct. You can use the 1g cylinder, and I have one on my car.

Also concur on the flywheel bolts. Never a place to cheap out.

 

[yeti]

So I see fluid coming out of what seems to be the transfercase output seal, is it as simple as just getting that seal? Or is there a chance it’s my driveshaft yoke?

I just read up on all that fun recall stuff and was about to order the transfer case output seal.

Wondering if I should just order a yoke? Is it hard to replace? Easy to inspect to see if that IS the problem?

 

[yeti]

So the idle is calm when the turbo timer is activated, or did this one time, I removed the turbo timer and still got the idle surge

click

I just ordered the fiav block off plate to eliminate ISC. I think I’m gonna install that and hope for a better idle, and if I don’t get it the problem is purely wiring/electrical then? Cheese and rice.