First Time Build: 995/1000

[desant78]

Ok guys, so I started up the car finally at 3:50 am Saturday morning, and I am having some issues.

I have an idling issues, I am surging and believe that I am mis-firing. The idle seems very rough. The TPS was adjusted per vfaq, idle screw set to 2.5 turns out. The CAS was not adjusted because I did not have the car on for very long.

I have large oil leak coming from the front case area, which I notcied due to the belt becoming saturated. only a half inch of the belt, the side closest to the front case, was wet.

Noticing the leak, and the oil flowing out of the bottom of the lower timing belt cover, I turned the car off.

Current Plan: Remove Lower Timing belt cover, inspect and clean front case area. TRIPLE check spark plug wires. Turn car on and try to visually see where leak is coming from. I am also draining the gas and putting in new gas, it has been sitting since Jan.

Just in case I already order a new front case gasket, OFH gasket, front main seal and oil shaft seal.

When I did the BS delete, I left the BS sprocket and did not use the spacer (which to me looked too thin to replace the sprocket). Is this a problem?

The timing belt does not look damage, so I assume I used right oil pan bolts under it.


I will post updates as they occur. Feel free for random tips, opinions, etc. If I replace teh front case gasket, the engine will be in the car.

thanks!

 

[desant78]

Also the car pasted a boost leak test (10 psi in system) with a slight leak off the j-pipe. I am addressing that issue and will re-test system.

Using the AFPR I adjust pressure to 37.5 with the vaccumm unplugged (and the vac line plugged by a friend). once at 37.5 I turned off the car, and attached the vac line.

thanks!

 

[DynastyLCD]

hey Sal, first and foremost, congradulations man!!!!!

one time a couple years ago, i had a similar problem. my oil leak back there came from that castle plug, the o-ring behind it had cracked and gone bad. a crank seal could have the same effect too. what i did to find my problem, i started the car with the timing cover off. just make sure you have the crank pulley bolted on.

the BS sprocket is fine in there. i never bought that spacer, i always ran it the way you did.

if you have to replace the gasket in the car for the front case, you might find that unbolting the front crossmember (where the front engine mount attaches to) gives you the extra little bit of clearance to make life a lot easier. a few years ago, i helped a friend do a BS delete in the car on his 1g, doing this helped us out clearance wise.

but most importantly... congrats on getting the GVR4 back to life!!!

 

[desant78]

^thanks Phil! I appreciate the kind words.

Last night I investigated the problem, the water pump is leaking along with Oil from the Oil pump. after a few seconds oil comes bleeding out behind the oil pump sprocket, but the castle bolt is still dry.

Suggestions for changing the oil seal in the car? I plan on using the old timing belt to loosen the sprocket to access the oil seal. Also tips for the water pump install? I just grey mitsu rtv on both side.

Opinions, and tips always welcome.


thanks!

 

[DynastyLCD]

Sal, make sure the bolt going through the water pump to hold the alt. bracket isn't loose. that will give you a coolant leak as well.

i think you've got the right strategy using the belt to hold the sprocket while you loosen the nut. good luck buddy!

 

[transparentdsm]

hey sal just caught myself up on your build, if you haven't done anything to the transmission yet, find a local airport(small single engine style) and find the guy there that welds airplanes and ask him to lay a bead on there for you... it will be cheap and the safest/ strongest thing you can do.

 

[desant78]

^thanks for the tip, i already got a trans from dustyduff and a sweet jdm tcase.

I was successful in fixing my oil leaks, because (very embarrassing) the problen was that i put the seals in, backwards /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

Oh well all is well.that ends well. I burst the rear brake line while bleeding it, and am attempting to dial in my idle via biss, tps, cas, and idle switch. Once again, suggest away!

 

[EHmotorsports]

If you burst the line while bleading the brakes. I would replace all the rubber lines before driving the thing.

 

[desant78]

So here is an update on the thread.

I have over 300 miles under my belt (most of them was in prep for MOD). The build is seeming to hold up, but I still have some issues I need to fix.


1. Vac leaks, I am replacing this week my last pipe clamps with t bolt clamps, and re-boost leak testing the car. I ran out of t bolt clamps, fixed a bunch of leaks, but needed more to continue fixing all the leaks. As a result i have a vac of 0 at idle, part throttle cruising I see 10, and on the spring I see 10 psi around 3k. I believe this is also compounded with my 272's that already should idle with a lower vac.

2. I have bad idle surge, which is preventing me from really having fun with the car, but I believe this is due to the zero vac. I had the BOV opening before and a vac around 15 before I took the car apart with the same cams.

3. Wipers! They slowed do to a crawl, then stopped. I have a parts car with working wipers so I am working on researching what parts to systematically swap over.

4. Before I took the car apart, I couldn't rev past 6k until fuel cut. There is no knock, or anything abnormal (logged it) and it feels like the two step kicking in. I have a keydriver chip, and I am also on the stock fuel pump. I assumed since I was on the 13g at 18psi, that simply my fuel couldn't handle that flow. I am at 10 psi and spike to 18 psi around 5.5k but can only rev to 6k. I have an upgrade fuel pump, but any suggestions would be great appreciated. I am REALLY stuck on this one. I have a logger, (MMC driod) so what should I be looking at? Also anyone with keydriver expierence please chime in, I have no clue with what I'm really working with.


thanks guys, I'll get some pics up soon!