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Finally fixed my coast-down rumble ( "wub wub" noise )

CP

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I can't imagine they're cheap /ubbthreads/images//graemlins/uhh.gif I'm going to get my car up on a lift next month, get the wheels spinning and see if I can track down the noise(s).

Mine has done this with two trannies, two t-cases, old and rebuilt rear diffs, and new carrier bearings. Both Lobro joints "could" be shot, but I wouldn't know how to determine that. This may be the breaking point on selling the car, as I can't daily drive it like this. Come April I could use a tow vehicle anyway.
 

OldHairyBastard

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^^^A couple of people have replaced them and there is a write up on it in the how to section. I have all of the parts at home and I will relace them shortly to see if this is the noise.
 

CP

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On a related note: my 2 month old front carrier bearing has burped grease due to excessive driveshaft movement. The vent on top of my t-case also is constantly weeping fluid, even though it is not completely full of fluid (I keep topping it off). I've got a constant small puddle beneath my t-case (has done this with two different ones) due to what I think is constant in/out movement of the driveshaft.

Last night creeping along in traffic in 1st gear, the car was doing a slow/fast oscilation due to the driveshaft's looseness /ubbthreads/images//graemlins/banghead.gif /ubbthreads/images//graemlins/banghead.gif /ubbthreads/images//graemlins/banghead.gif

I'm going to pull the driveshaft and t-case soon to see if this nonsense subsides.
 

OldHairyBastard

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I just thought of this---How are everyones motor mounts. If it is due to the in and out movement of the yoke then it could be bad motor mounts that need to be replaced. I have some poly ones that I think I will toss in during the rebuild and see how that works.
 

CP

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Less than a year old. Even if they were worn, I don't think it would matter during steady cruise since the motor isn't moving around much when it's not being asked to do much of anything. Mine doesn't exhibit ANY of this noise or thumping during WOT acceleration.
 

Quote:
Last night creeping along in traffic in 1st gear, the car was doing a slow/fast oscilation due to the driveshaft's looseness.



Huh, my car does this sometimes too... better crawl under there and check it out. /ubbthreads/images//graemlins/rolleyes.gif
 

Well, crawled under the car and sure enough, both carrier bearings (bushings?) were shot; tons of driveshaft flex. I expected some, but wow, can't believe it was driving like that. So I decided to try the silicon fill fix, thinking that at worst I'm out $5 and back at square one, needing new carrier bearing bushings. I went and got the silicon, but while under the car I started thinking (always trouble) and it seems like it'd be a ton easier to just pull the whole driveshaft out and do the whole operation outside the car, letting it cure while resting on some sawhorses or something. I've read the VFAQ on this and done a few searches, and near as I can tell I'm in the clear on this. I won't be doing it until Thursday though, so before I go do something drastic is this kosher? Any more experienced hands out there think it's a bad idea or I'm making a mountain out of a molehill? I figure I'd just drive the front up on ramps and then jack up the rear, so as to keep the fluid in the t-case.
 

CP

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Loosen some bolts and you should be good to go. If you drop the t-case while it's attached to the DS, you won't have to empty it. Just tip it up a bit when you pull the DS out of it. I'd think this operation will be MUCH easier removed from the car. I'm getting mine onto a lift Saturday morning so I can see what the DS is doing when the wheels are spinning. Then the car will be down for a month or so while I mess with the head (tired of dealing with my fubar'd exhaust manifold studs and the turbo needs a bolt professionally drilled out of it). I'm guessing that I'll be replacing the carrier bearings yet again.
 

Ok, just got done with this a few hours ago, and it went fairly smoothly, except for my idea of putting the front on ramps before I jacked it up. Very, very dumb, but easily solved. I got two tubes of silicon from HDR, GE sink and bathtub sealant. This stuff is waterproof vs. the window sealant which is only water resistant, and is guaranteed not to shrink, crack, etc. but will maintain it's shape after cured. The window stuff is not. It was GE Silicon II, and maybe it was the non-shrinking that made it different from Ge Silicon I, I can't remember, but it seemed like this stuff was the ticket. The guy who wrote the vfaq said he used 3/4 of a tube, but it seemed like he only did the rear, hence my buying two tubes. I ended up using both, but if I hadn't squirted too much in the first one I think one tube would have been sufficient. I noticed that neither carrier bearing bushing was centered... with the driveshaft on wooden blocks, when I spun the bearing bracket and watched the inner edge (the outer edge changes thickness) I saw it wasn't true. Will this matter much when the silicon cures? It kind of seems like the rubber bushings on the bracket studs would take up that vibration, but I guess we'll find out.

But the Easter egg of the night turned out to be the gear oil on the first part of the driveshaft, coming from... the transfer case. /ubbthreads/images//graemlins/banghead.gif Not quite 10k miles ago I had the recall done at a dealership; they'll be getting a phone call from me. On the work order (I keep all records) the original typed notes read: INSPECT BOTH SIDES, REPLACED LEFT SIDE & RESEAL BOTH SIDES. I'm not sure what that means... doesn't even sound like they're talking about a xcase to me. Those notes were crossed out in pen, however, and handwritten underneath was: REPLACE SLEEVE YOKE AND REFILL TRANSFER CASE OIL. Now, I know that technically the recall was over the leaking rear seal, and that a replacement seal was guaranteed, but not the whole case unless it had been damaged by low oil. I'd requested a whole new case when I made the appt. but when I picked it up they said this was sufficient. /ubbthreads/images//graemlins/mad.gif It obviously was not and I am obviously pissed off. I want the situation rectified, but don't know how I feel about going back to that dealership. It's not exactly local to me, and when I took it there to begin with I towed the car on a flatbed. Anyone else had a similar experience? I guess I'd like to know what my rights are here in regards to the recall. Since the car has already been in for the recall, am I SOL, or is it still applicable? In the work order it also says CLAIM TYPE: C , but I have no idea what that means.

Goddamnit. All this work getting the car ready for the meet and now this. /ubbthreads/images//graemlins/frown.gif I think those dealer techs need their heads recalled.

Edit: Oh, and btw when I picked the car up afterwards it had something like 80 more miles on the odometer than when I dropped it off. Some clever douchebag mechanic had listed the new mileage as both the mileage in and mileage out on the invoice. Road test my ass; some jerkoff was joyriding in MY effing VR4. I am so friggin' mad right now. They're probably lucky I can't talk to them until tomorrow or someone would have gotten choked.
 
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CP

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Where's the fluid coming from? I'm pretty sure that my yoke moves in and out of the t-case quite a bit while driving, but my spewage is from the vent on top (case filled properly with the correct amount of fluid), not the yoke seal on the rear of the case.
 

It's coming from the rear yoke. The transfer case itself is clean, and the gear oil spray on the underside of the car starts right where the driveshaft goes into the yoke. The oil runs down the first part of the driveshaft, so there's spray for 18 inches or so where the shaft flung it on the underside of the car.

I'm thinking I may try to replace that seal myself; going to do some searching to see how others fared. Also, judging by the amount of spray it seems that not all that much oil was lost. Could I just top it off, drive it to the meet, check it there, and drive home? I don't think it's going to go belly up in only 600 miles, but chime in please if this is a bad idea. I remember seeing pics of someone's transfer case that had been bone dry long enough that everything inside was covered in rust, and it still drove for quite a while.
 

CP

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It'll be fine. Just keep it topped up. Turns out I'm going to hacve to drive mine to the east coast meet this weekend...ugh. I took it to work today and it feels and sounds like sh*t. Hopefully I can track down the source tomorrow morning when it's up on a lift. I may rebuild my spare driveshaft and give that one a try.
 

Just got off the phone with the dealership that did the recall... assholes. They sold me I'm SOL; they did the minimum that the recall required and so they're done with it. Now, if I'd like to schedule an appointment and PAY them to do it the RIGHT way I can do that. /ubbthreads/images//graemlins/mad.gif I gave them the name of the technician who performed it, thinking that maybe it was an installation error, and was told "oh, that guy isn't here any more, we fired him years ago." Oh, ya think? Oh, and the technician they have now that I can bring it in to look at doesn't even have drivetrain certification. /ubbthreads/images//graemlins/banghead.gif The guy said they send a lot of service requests up to Portland. I can't believe they're still in business. DeLon Mitsubishi in Salem, OR: avoid at all costs.
 

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
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Mar 5, 2001
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Michigan
The new yoke should not leak, BUT based on what they wrote on the repair order you may have a different problem. It doesn't say the rear seal was replaced, and it may be damaged and leaking. That could possibly be shop error, or just a worn out seal.

The transfer case recall was to address a deficiency in the yoke design that allowed it to leak out there, it is not a lifetime guarantee against maintenance needs.

I feel for you though, as I have a constant t/c leak that appears to be the yoke but may just be the seal. I have tried replacing the seal once and it still does it. I haven't figure it out yet.
 

Polish

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Jan 10, 2005
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NE, IN
Fill the hollow end of the DS with RTV. Well not fill it but put a small amount at the very end per the vfaq and replace the Tcase seal. You should be good to go. Wait overnight before mounting to Tcase back up, obviously.
 

Thanks for the tip, Polish. I'll read up on it and maybe try it later, but not now. I'm about to put it back together to get ready for the meet tomorrow, so maybe later. I think I'm going to try replacing the seal first however, and see how that goes.
 
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