Evo MR with Swift Springs setup

[prove_it]

I don't see any pics relating to OEM Evo9 rear struts. In the link your doing some awesome work getting the inserts to work. I'm not sure if you are thinking the same thing we are. We are talking about the rear lower shock fork mod to adapt Factory EVO shocks to the car.

 

[pagosadsm]

I will take some photos of my rear 3000gt shocks on my Talon and post them. I think to install a bushing is a better install than cutting and welding or an adapter from an evo 9
Rick

 

[transparentdsm]

^ 3000gt rear struts have the same lower mountain point as a VR4 or talon. were talking about something completely different i think.

were talking about it being welded in like this,

or using this adapter:


and prove it, it looks like the problem of spacing has already been addressed with poly bushings pre-inserted now.

 

[prove_it]

I thought that the sleeves were for rotation during suspension movement.

 

[transparentdsm]

they very well could be. i just remember the first time i saw them there were no poly sleeves.

 

[prove_it]

I'm not sure either. When they first came out, I started wondering where the "flex" would be. I wonder if that was a revision to the design.

 

[curtis]

There's one other option and its already been done by a member here. Think heim joint those bearings are removable from the rod end. Go to a bearing supply and buy two thats 21mm id and od to that of the 1g/vr4 shock mount steel sleeve than has the nasty bent to sh*t vulcanized rubber inside. Or just get them 21mm id and then find a piece of thick pipe and make your own outer sleeve to hold them.... Plan on doing it to mine just haven't ran out there to get the bearings. Both I figure will be under 15 bucks. As for compressive loads the bearing will more than cover that even with a front end loader pushing it down on the way to the crusher door. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif

 

[prove_it]

Hum, not a bad idea. Would you still be able to put the bearing covers on the bearing then? I never liked the idea of exposed heim joints in anything but a full race car.

 

[curtis]

Just spray them down with CPC (corrosion preventative compound) or dry film lubricate then cpcafter the dry film cures. WD-40 and PB blaster isn't the same. Most bearing supply houses have the stuff for sale. If not slime it thick with some type of grease or petrolatum (vaseline)...... Helicopters don't have covers and they survive in way worst conditions. If they do get some surface rust just use a scotch brite pad and recoat.

Had them on my mustang control arms for years that were always coated in cpc and then sold the car and then it sold again and the same arms are now on another car. built them about 20 years ago and bearings haven't rusted up and are still tight.

 

[GSTwithPSI]

After I reconditioned my coilovers, I was looking for something to keep the threaded sleeves from rusting. I couldn't paint them for obvious reasons, so I went to a local marine supply and picked up a can if this stuff: click

It works great, and can be removed with degreaser or brake cleaner. It doesn't look pretty, but gets the job done.

 

[pagosadsm]

This my bushing for the rear shock. The bushing was stuck in the shock so I could not remove it. These are off of a 3000gt
Rick

 

[transparentdsm]

then those are off of an evo 10 because 8 and 9 are different. 8 and 9's aren't closed at the bottom there open. we have to weld in a bushing.

 

[ExplicitCC]

Just got them today, still don't know what way to go!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

 

[prove_it]

What's your car going to be used for?

 

[ExplicitCC]

Some drag, DD some drift a little bit of everything but mainly DD

 

[prove_it]

Just weld in the bushings then. Fastest, easiest solution. You can always drill out the rubber and fill with Window weld for "poly" bushings.