Engine will not start

[holeshotmoe]

Injectors might be gummed up, inhibiting movement. You could put a few drops of injector cleaner in them, then with alligator clips/lines connect the injector to 12v via a pushbutton switch. Tap it repeatedly and hopefully it will begin to move again. But depending how long they have been sitting, they may need to soak overnight before the gunk is loosened enough for them to move again. Anyway, here is your CAS alignment info.

 

[Arty]

[quote name=MuffinMan7580

Quick, easy, and redneck way of trying to free up the injectors is to tap them with (lightly and carefully, use your own judgment here) an extension, screwdriver, or whatever you have access to, to get a little shock into whatever gunk is in the injector. Personally, I would wire up a 9v battery to it to hold it open while I did it, that way you could see your fuel pressure drop as soon as it started letting fuel through.



I bought some carb cleaner and removed the injectors. I had a 600mm length of 3/8" hose laying around. I jammed the input end of the injector into the the 3/8" hose, used some aligator clip wires and a 10ohm resistor in series with the injector to limit current. While blowing with my lungs into the other end of the hose, I tapped the aligator clip on the 12V battery. I did not hear any clicking from the injector and no air leaked out through the injector.

I held the injector in my left hand and tapped on its largest metal section with the heavy end of a 3/8" socket set extension bar. This left a few small cosmetic dents in the metal part of the injector. I repeated my blowing into the hose while tapping the aligator clip on the battery. A few drops of fuel were blown out of the injector.
I repeated this test on the other 3 injectors, using the soft plastic handle of a large screwdriver to tap the metal body of the injectors to avoid dents. All three were initially blocked, and all three expelled a few drops of fuel after a few taps with the screwdriver handle.
I then repeated my process, jammed the injector into the end of the hose, but now I sprayed carb cleaner into the hose with the straw attachment on the can, and holding the hose vertically, I then tapped the aligator clip to the 12V battery and blew down the hose and carb cleaner came out through the injector.

I repeated this process on all 4 injectors.

When I was finished I could blow into the hose and it remained air tight until I tapped the 12V. When I tapped 12V I can hear the injector click, and if I hold the tip of my finger on the pintle of the injector I can feel it tapping my finger.

I was surprised that all 4 injectors were stuck closed.

I bought some new 7mm x 2mm o-rings and re-installed the injectors and fuel rail.

I cranked the engine and it still did not start. Unlike previously it did splutter maybe 3 times but it still would not run. I removed the spark plugs, and I can smell petrol on the plugs so I think the injectors are now working.

I purchased a screw in compression tester.

Not sure which way the cylinders number, but from left to right standing in front of the engine I measured (wet) 140, 80, 110, 0 psi

I think the cylinder closest to the cam sprockets is number one ?
In that case cylinder 1 = 0 psi compression.
I'm now thinking the timing belt may have jumped a tooth or two and bent one or more valves ?? Is it possible that the timing belt jumped in such a way that no valves are bent but causes the timing on cylinder 1 to be out in such a way that it does not make compression even though none of its valves have been bent ??

 

[FlyingEagle]

Happy to hear that injectors are now somewhat working. Process of elimination.

We normally hear of timing being off, and you either get bent valves or not. Most likely yes, and it's usually more than one cylinder but any combination is possible because of the principles of anarchy at work. Next step sounds like a leak down test or better yet, remove the rocker cover and inspect missing rocker arms, valves not moving, etc.

Also, if you can get a boroscope with a camera/TV, you just might be able to see into the affected area. Cylinder head removal time is likely just around the corner.

If valves have met the pistons, you can lightly grind and buff out the marks left in the piston tops and depending upon the condition of the mating surfaces, re-assembly could start after a skim of the head surface and some cleaning of the valves/replacement of bent parts/new valve guids in affected areas outside of tolerance or that were holding bent valves.
New valve stem seals will keep the motor from swallowing oil for some time to come also.