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Good stuff Chris thanks /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Figured I may as well start here after the 4WS line removal. Gotta get this thing running so I can start making some meets hehehe I gotta take a pic of this radiator lol I'm surprised it was cooling anything :p
 

Sooooo I am back working on the VR4 again and moving along nicely. I managed to remove the dipstick tube after following forum help (thanks guys). The o2 sensor is kicking my butt pretty bad I guess because I need a special tool to remove it. Any tricks around that? Also I am wondering what im doing wrong on the power steering pump removal. I removed the bolt on the left side of it looking down and loosened the tightening bolt. However, I am unsure of how to remove this thing without removing all of its hoses and whatnot. Any tips for me? Thanks for all the help guys /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 

turbofonz

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 27, 2006
Messages
475
Location
Granby, MA
If you don't have an o2 socket, a 7/8" or 22mm box end wrench works. Disconnect the sensor then slide the wrench over, get it on the o2 and crack it. Sometimes thier very stubborn.

On the PS pump, remove that bolt you did, then there's 2 bolts near the belt/pulley. Align the pulley so the holes show the bolts, and remove them both. You'll be able to remove the pump without taking the lines off. I never remove the PS pump when doing turbo swaps though.
 

Brunoboy

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 25, 2008
Messages
2,880
Location
San Bruno,CA Home of SFO
dang im in the same boat as you, installing my big 16g right now, ive done two 14bs and a ebay 16g on 352/1000, once i took off the mani the rest i do it without taking it off, and yes i do drain all my fluids. Well good luck
-shane
 

Good info guys. Thank you very much. I didn't really want to remove the PS pump, but the VFaq said remove so I began removing. Looks like it will be easier to get to the exhman bolts. The o2 sensor I was trying to figure out how to disconnect the sensor. Does it disconnect at the block or do I need to unplug it back where it plugs in on the left side of the engine?

Thanks again!
 

Kenny_Kline

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 27, 2007
Messages
789
Location
Seekonk, MA
Mase, you have a DSM? LOL enjoy!!!

You unplug O2 sensor from wiring harness. Autozone or any parts store really will rent/sell you a tool for cheap to remove the O2 sensor. The manifold studs can be a pain in the ass sometimes. I would buy all new studs, washers, and nuts from JNZtuning.com Its cheap and much easier to put back together. I have done just about everything to these motors so if you want any immediate help or advice, you know my name over on fyc.

-K
 

^^ Hey Kenny. Yeah I thought you knew I bought Besso's. I have been dying for something to tool on so figured this would be perfect. I bought a manifold stud kit when I bought the 16g so I should be set. Got most of them off without stud problem, but there are two that I think I will need to extract. Good times! Thanks for the tip on the tool @autozone,etc. I will have to pick it up. You still selling that engine of yours? I was pretty tempted...hehehe
 

mase when is your sled going to be done.. ive been smokin things left and right around here.
 

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif Dunno. Been struggling to find the time to get in there and wrench. Damn families /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

We should get together for beers sometime though...I wanna check this thing out (yours).
 

DailyDSM

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 6, 2005
Messages
433
Location
Carlsbad, CA
The O2 sensor removal tool (socket) is about $10.

I don't know about everyone else but I just filter and reuse antifreeze. Think you have to call Hazmat for disposal.
 

O2 sensor is still owning me even with two diff. tools I picked up at Autozone. I can get on it good and wrench hard, but apparentely not hard enough. I can't get the damn thing to budge. I have coated it with PB Blaster about 10 times since yesterday and tried about 5 lol. I'm thinking I may need to get air tools involved? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 

na i wouldnt take a air tool to the o2 sensor.. Just unhook it from the harness and take the old turbo and o2 housing out together. Or have you done that allready? They sell a o2 socket that is garenteed to work. We do need to hang out ill have to pick up a 12 rack of somthing good and have ya come over. Im up in maine on my last day of vacation now but i have to renew the reg on the vr4 when i get back so i can drive it since it expired a little while ago lol! I hear ya on the families, my little one is a hyper little thang and cant keep up with her on certain days hahaha
 

Lol yeah I thought about just pulling the whole thing out and then swapping the o2 housing over to the new turbo without removing the sensor. It seems like the vfaq has you removing a lot of stuff that you maybe dont have to? The power steering pump is going to be my other interesting piece. Got the left and the front one behind the pulley out, but the back one is still blocked by the belt. I would definetely be down to hang out sometime. Tomorrow im heading to Boston to the inlaws and then work all week. Then Friday its off to NC till Monday. Then Tuesday im off to Pittsburgh till Saturday. Freaking work is owning me lately. At any rate I hope to get this thing running before the end of the summer. If not it will be a wintertime project! Hehehe
 

Brunoboy

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 25, 2008
Messages
2,880
Location
San Bruno,CA Home of SFO
Well If you just wanna change the turbo, I jack up the car, then put it on jackstands. Stick a Jack under the dp and lift up so that it pushes up on the turbo slightly. Then loosen the turbo bolts. and slowly drop the jack. this will leave the turbo and exhaust mani apart. Then I disconnect the radiator, intake, o2 sensor from the connector. and all the oil lines and coolant lines. Finally I jack it up a little bit more, disconnect the dp from the o2 housing, and pull the turbo up and through the intake side of the engine bay......Works for me. and reinstall the opposite way.
-Shane
 

I like that walkthrough!! Why does the vfaq have me removing the exhman bolts? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

Think I will just do it my own way from here on out. Hopefully I wont mess something up and end up hearing "Should have followed the vfaq!" LOL
 

Kenny_Kline

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 27, 2007
Messages
789
Location
Seekonk, MA
Mase, I would come down one day and help you if you want. Just need to make sure you have everything new. Try to salvage what you can but it really helps to spend the extra $50 and have everything new.
 

I have new studs...that's about it. And a new radiator as the old one was trash. But other than that I haven't found anything glaring needing replacement. However, I may need a new exhman as it appears it may have some cracks in it. Is that normal? I will try to take some pics to show what I mean...
 

Kenny_Kline

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 27, 2007
Messages
789
Location
Seekonk, MA
Right off the bat, I would grab a 2G exhaust manifold. Have it bead blasted and cleaned. People have made serious power still retaining a ported 2G manifold. I can port it for you. Also wouldnt be a bad time to have your turbo hotside ported too along with the O2 housing. I would invest in a cheap O2 housing (SS tubular ebay ones). I would go with an open dump one. A guy on here Beaner sells them for about $60 shipped. Or atleast get a 2G o2 housing and port that. I do all my own port work and have pics to show quality. I know what I am doing for these setups if you need help.

Use a 4layer gasket that is OEM. Make sure you use all steel gaskets and make sure all surfaces are flat. Have a machine shop mill each surface to be sure. You will need all new nuts and washers. I would also get 4 new turbo bolts and you need 8 washers. These are stretch bolts so replace with NEW! To even make things more simple, get new fittings for turbo like the banjo bolts (2), washers (4). Also, I would replace the oil return line with something better. Throw out the stock return. Invest in a push lock style or some type of better return. These things can be a bitch to seal right. If you stick with stock return, you will need new gaskets and also do not forget the 2 crush washers/gaskets that go on the bolts that bolt onto the oil pan. Invest into a SS oil feed line. Having it go from the stock location (off the head) is fine. I would get a line with a filter on it though.

Let me know if you have any further questions.
 

Wow that's a ton of info /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif

I am figuring I will need a new exhaust manifold anyway as mine looks pretty shot. I will keep my eyes out for one on here. I bought the turbo ported so its all set. The o2 housing is stock though as far as I know. I will check into Beaner's offering. The other stuff I will get new. Planned on new anyway as the old ones are scratched up, dirty, and ugly hehehe. I will have to look into the SS oil lines. Would be really neat, but im not sure I know how to do them.
 
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