The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource

Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey. Login to browse without most ads.

Disassembly and paint of 692

GSX_TC

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 7, 2011
Messages
3,729
Location
Houston, Texas
I knew I was Right =)


nelson-muntz-12989-1.jpg
 

rdomeck

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 1, 2011
Messages
620
Location
Indianapolis, In.









Some more photo's. I managed to get the doors all apart, as well as the bumpers and trunk. Started some body work and will hopefully prime all the parts or the body by wednesday.

The biggest pain that I have had is removing the moulding at the top of the doors....Trying to get my hand up in the door to release the clips so I wouldn't hurt the moulding. I think my arms will be hurting for the next couple of days!
 

rdomeck

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 1, 2011
Messages
620
Location
Indianapolis, In.
Got some parts in primer today, but forgot to take any pics....But it's coming along. Will post some more pics tomorrow!
 

rdomeck

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 1, 2011
Messages
620
Location
Indianapolis, In.
Late night......








My plan is to block the doors, trunk and hood tomorrow after I prime the car....Paint the doors, trunk and hood while the primer dries on the car then block and paint the car...Not sure about the other 100 pieces that came off of it yet, but I'll fit them in somewhere!

Will keep updating as I go along!
 

Jason G.

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 7, 2003
Messages
3,279
Location
Anderson, SC
Great work. What type of primer and paint are you using? Also, what type of spray gun are you using?
 

rdomeck

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 1, 2011
Messages
620
Location
Indianapolis, In.
I run a fabrication/restoration business. We have a full PPG DBC2000 base coat mixing station. I spray with Sata guns. I use a 1.5 tip for my sealer gun, a 1.3 tip for my base gun, and a 1.4 tip for my clear gun. My primer gun is a 2.2 tip!
 

rdomeck

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 1, 2011
Messages
620
Location
Indianapolis, In.
To answer your question about the primer...I use K38 and K201 for the primer. I use mainly DP40 and DP401LF for sealer. I use DCD35 and DFX11 for my clear. The other product that I use a lot of is DT870-898. This is a reducer that lets my chose how fast things dry. DT870 when I need things to dry quickly all the way up to DT898 if I need them to dry slowly. I am refering to drying as time between coats so that I don't get dry spots from overspray! I.E. If I am paint a complete car all together I need to time to spray a full coat of clear before it starts to set up so I will use DT898. If I am just doing jambs or the under side of hoods or trunks I will use DT870!
 

rdomeck

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 1, 2011
Messages
620
Location
Indianapolis, In.
I am...I like to use it anywhere that there is different product's. Meaning if I sand through the primer and it doesn't really need filler of if I have had to spot prime something. If there is any chance that the car has been painted I will generally spray sealer anyway to make sure I don't have problems. If it's a color I know will not cover well I will use the sealer to get a consistant color before I spray any base!
 

jepherz

Staff member
Joined
Aug 8, 2004
Messages
7,878
Location
KC, Missouri
Looks like it will be a good color in the end. What type of prep do you find you have to do on the underside of the hood/trunk lid?
 

rdomeck

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 1, 2011
Messages
620
Location
Indianapolis, In.
I wipe them down with wax and grease remover. Scuff them using a scuff pad and Ajax cleanser. I them pressure wash them to make sure that there is no dirt left in there (when there is sufficient time to let them dry over night). I then put them in the booth and paint!


img.php

img.php

This is were I would suggest spraying sealer!
img.php

img.php

img.php

After one coat of clear
img.php

img.php


38 parts and I didn't even pull the fenders off....That was a busy weekend! Now time for the second coat of clear....
 
Last edited:

turbowop

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 29, 2001
Messages
11,972
Location
Yakima, WA
Must be nice to have such a facility at your disposal. A full respray without removal of all the different panels is expensive enough as it is. To get all that removed and redone is crazy money. Nice work.

I am lucky enough to have a couple of buddies that work in a local autobody shop, one of which is an excellent painter. Without him, I don't think I would have been able to afford all the paintwork I've had done to my JDM parts over the years as I aquired them.
 
Support Vendors who Support the GVR-4 Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Recent Forum Posts

Recent Classifieds Listings

Top