DIAGNOSE MY CAR!!- UPDATE: ITS ALIVE!!!!!

[mean_green]

Got a voltmeter, but its digital so I didnt do me much good. Now cars not cranking at all and I havent changed anything.

So I guess my next step is get a logger if that'll help diagnose my problem or maybe one of those Walmart diagnostics to check the CEL

So frustrated,
-Alan

 

[iceman69510]

The logger or whatever won't help you much if it is not running. If it won't even crank over now, you have to start with the basics. Do you know anybody experienced with vehicle diagnostics that can help you on site?

 

[mean_green]

I dont have anyone to help me thats kind of the trouble. I was hoping someone could give me ideas to go after in a step by step type fashion.
-Alan

 

You can even make your own cable... Try going to a local pawn shop, they have tons of PDA's and i'm sure you can pick one up for cheap. If its more expensive than ebay, talk them down. I'm sure they're buying more than they can sell these days.

Yeah, the making your own cable, just a bunch of soldering and a trip to Radio Shack. I can link a couple pages I wrote a couple years ago about it. You can even emulate a pda on a laptop and solder together a cable with a slightly different schematic and viola... I did it once and found my pda was easier to use... didn't feel like slamming my laptop shut in the middle of a race. Plus if my floorboard falls out it might fall in the hole... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

 

[vr4play]

I think you need to recheck your wiring. The o2 sensor with 2 wires has me concerned that you may have wired it into one of the coolant temp switches or something. Also make sure the transistor and coil pack are plugged in. Wiggle the plug on the cas and make sure it is on good. Had a car not start because of a bad connection there before.

 

[Hertz]

Your tach won't move if the CAS is dead.

 

[mean_green]

Thanks Hertz thats great info. My tach moves while Im cranking so thats not it.

I fixed the o2 sensor back to the o2 the car last ran on... Going to figure out CEL code tonight hopefully...

Keep it coming, thanks for all the help so far.
-Alan

 

[mean_green]

So I got this tester tonight click and couldnt get the thing to light up. It light up when I tried to do other things but nothing following these instructions click

So another sypmtom now is that the motor isnt even cranking now /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

I hear a clicking from the ECU when I crank but nothing else besides almost a hissing noise from under the hood like if I had some massive fuel injectors, which I dont. After I cranked the key a few times there was a faint ticking noise coming from the throttle body area? Eventually quit and couldnt get it to do it again but Im not real sure whats going on at all with this car.

So frustrated guys, I NEED HELP, Please.
-Alan

 

[turbowop]

You've been cranking and cranking trying to get the car to start, so now your battery is probably dead.

BTW, you'll never hear the fuel pump "prime" the system just by turning the key on. The fuel pump only pumps fuel if the CAS is spinning.

Sounds like you're in a bit over your head. I would try to find some local DSM guy to help out.

 

[mean_green]

I have a two battery setup right now because my optima isnt holding a full charge and the other battery is brand new, on a charger...

I am in over my head but Im kind of in solo and no one will really help me locally, thats why Im relying on you GVR4 gods to lead me in the right way.

 

[turbowop]

IMO, you need to tell us exactly what things are doing. Not "well, maybe the buzzing is my CD player and not my MPI relay". We certainly can't diagnose something over the internet when we're not even sure where a buzzing noise is actually coming from.

It's probably a combination of a couple of simple issues. Most of the veteran members here could probably have that car fired up within an hour. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hs.gif

 

[mean_green]

Ive been just trying to post as I go, find out more info and posting it. It was after all the cd player making a noise it never had before.

I have full confidence its a few small things combining that a vet could work out thats why Im hoping for a little help in the form of a few checks in a step-by-step process...

Sorry about the conflicting symptoms but Im just posting as I learn and find new things, I apologizing for the noob forhead slaps and headshakes. Just trying to learn and mode a car Ive loved for years and finally own.

 

[mean_green]

Going to try a ECU swap tonight out of a 1g GSX if I can get ahold of my buddy. Keydiver is thinking my ECU took the acid dive because the lack of a light from that #10 prong with a 12v tester. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif

 

[mean_green]

Pulled the ECU, nothing looks terrible to my untrained eye but what do I know. Took some pictures hopfully they show up well and you guys can tell me yay or nay.



This is the only thing I could see that worried me a little bit, wasnt the greenish-black I was told to look for but this is more like rusty brown?? Didnt know if it wasn anything to be alarmed by.

-Alan

 

[stevep]

The only things I can tell for sure from that picture is that I need my glasses. Oh, I have them on, it must be the picture that's out of focus.

Actually I can tell that whoever changed that cap didn't do it correctly. I can still see the electrolyte damage (the tarnished copper under the green solder mask) to the ground trace and suspect that the cap isn't really soldered to both sides of the board.

 

[mean_green]

Well thats interesting, do you think thats where some of my problem lies? If so is it repairable or am I better off sourcing a different one?

Those caps werent replaced anytime soon. Several years ago I'd bet so could they have messed up more over time or what? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

 

[stevep]

The ECU is pretty rough. The caps had leaked in the past and while fresh ones were installed there wasn't much attention spent on the rest. It had also blown one of the ISC drivers in the past and a replacement driver installed but it's not connected to anything. Only one of the four ISC drivers was functional. Both of the drivers on either side were half installed and are questionable. I'll test them before reinstalling.

I haven't done anything but remove the parts so far.

 

[mean_green]

Maybe there is some contribution from the ECU why the car wont start. lol

What would make all of that go bad ya think? I mean I understand acid getting around and working its magic but what about the ISC drivers (what do they do?) blowing?

I have faith you can fix everything, I just hope this was the only problem holding my car back from coming off those jackstands.

-Alan

 

[mean_green]

After Steve rebuilt my ECU he said something could be wrong with my ISC since all the drivers in the ECU were messed up.

What can I do to test this? Is the voltmeter method the only way? and is there a wright up anywhere on how to do that exactley, I think I know how but want to be sure. If I do find its not up to the correct ohms whats all involved in replacing it. Can I jack anything off a 1g auto turbo parts car to make it work?

Any help is much appreciated, I will keep searching as well.
-Alan

 

You can test your isc with a multimeter. There is a write up on vfaq under "intake".

Here