cut oil squirter holes?

[EMX5636]

To be honest, I don't think I've ever heard of it being done. People either use them if they have them, or they block them off or swap to an NT block. I'm sure it's possible to do, just saying it's not needed if you are running a forged bottom end. I had bad luck with the 100mm crank, and/or some forged slugs and factory squirters anyway. I've seen a lot of them bent or broken off and laying in the pan.

 

[tektic]

If installed properly, there's no way for anything to make contact with an oil squirter short of major engine failures. Wen installing aftermarket pistons they usualy need to be repositioned or bent differently.

 

[prove_it]

I had to adjust them to clear my wisecos.

 

[EMX5636]

Correct, I had to re-position them significantly for the stroker crank.

Another point I just read about this debate is probably true that I didn't even think of. The factory 1G piston is 7.8:1 CR and has a considerable dish. Most forged pistons today are either 8.5 or 9:1+. That should allow more aluminum up in the crown area to dissipate heat better anyway.

Also, the factory pistons have a hole that the tip of the squirter fits up inside, so the oil stays up in the crown longer. I've never seen an aftermarket piston with this, so I think the functionality is probably greatly reduced, on top of the forged vs cast argument.


But to answer your question, and not continue this never-ending debate... Google search 4g64 oil squirters, it looks like a few Evo guys have had this done when building a 2.4 for somewhere in the 150-400 dollar range. Maybe some of them are local to you and could tell you where they had it done.

 

[tektic]

What do you guys think of this as an alternative ?

 

[EMX5636]

I don't see that working very effectively in a vertical stroke engine. Remember Porsche is flat like a Scooby/airplane etc.

 

[tektic]

That's just one of the places I saw it being done.

 

[prove_it]

I don't see why it wouldn't work. The idea is that your making a channel from the bearing for oil to be "leaked". With enough oil pressure I'd imagine that the oil would squirt far enough the piston.

Now, I don't like the idea because your adding a possibly large loss of oil at the crank. Could see oiling issues with our already weak oiling system in the 4g63.

 

[EMX5636]

I agree some oil will leak/spray towards the piston. Problem is, it's parallel with the rod, so most of the oil will just hit the pin area of the piston, and never make it to the crown, where the cooling really should be directed.

I do however, completely agree with your statement about losing valuable oil pressure to the crank/rod bearings. Even though it's the last place the oil goes in the bottom end, I don't know if I would like the "metered leak" that would likely drop pressure, especially at idle. The factory squirters have check valves that only open at higher pressures, conserving oil at idle/low RPM.

 

[tektic]

So with no balance shaft and stock size or only slightly enlarged pressure relief valve opening, does this sound like a better option?

 

[donniekak]

Depends on the rod side clearance. A mod like this depending on how large the cuts are can effectively triple or more the rod side clearance pressure loss. It could at least cause a localized pressure loss at the worst possible place in the engine, at the worst possible time. The upper rod bearing at peak cylinder pressure.

 

[tektic]

The oiling hole in the center of the stock rod doesn't have any of thesee effects because its centralized?

 

[donniekak]

It does bleed off some pressure, but you can only bleed off so much before you have an issue. If you take a bucket with a couple small holes in it you can still fill it with a hose, as long as the hose is constantly running. Keep adding holes and eventually it won't hold any water.

 

[tektic]

I was just asking if your opinion was that having the grooves on both sides made a difference than the the hole in the center.

If you have more pressure to begin with because the relief valve isn't ported and dumping as much oil back to the pan I don't see the issue

 

[prove_it]

The issue with that is your building an engine with the hope that it will be ok. There is no precedent on this and your fully experimenting. Now if your pockets are deep and can afford to redo all the work if it fails, then I say go for it. Now if your on a tight budget, I'd say you may want to re-think your ideas and goals, because your talking about a mod that could cause total engine failure, that is not un-doable, and completely experimental.

It could work, or it won't. No one on here will be able to make you feel better about doing this and give you the comfort you might need to move forward and do this.

 

[tektic]

I agree totally.

 

[EMX5636]

I agree with Prove_it. But you are better off adding the factory turbo squirters as long as you have provisions in the wide block for them if you really insist on having them. Much less trial and error than the rod idea, just might be a bit more money up front.

 

[prove_it]

Adding some interesting info. Was re-ringing a Honda V6 today and I never noticed this, but the factory rods have 2 slots on each side of the rod that will channel oil to the wrist pin. It looks like its an oil bath that hits the wrist pin and slashes all over.

So if the factory does this, then it must work. Now with that said, it's hard to say how much oil volume is needed for this "leak".