COP Issues

[G]

I say newb because all your problems you post are newb related. As well as your buying decision on your current vr-4. Nothing wrong with making rookie mistakes. You are learning from your mistakes, I know they don't teach that over on tooners. I think I've only posted one error from my latest vr-4 since I've been here, and it was because I forgot which way a tensioner was supposed to face. That's only because the 5 or 6 4g63's before that I deleted the balance shaft.

If I remember right, I actually used cbr 1000rr coils. I think the busa's were to long. This was 2001'ish in my dsm, before I was even a member here. Though I think I did post the part numbers for the coils a while back. Some of the really old posts from way back don't come up anymore.

 

[GSTwithPSI]

No wiring diagram? No part numbers? That's what I thought...

You haven't posted a one error? What about the time you said the stock heat shield on our cars was made of aluminum? How about the time you said the FP mani doesn't ever cause heat issues? Or how about the time you claimed logs could be produced that show IAT temps lower than ambient by using aluminum IC piping? Or how about your theory on making more power with a 154* T-stat? Wait, wait, wait...lets not forget how you price items separately when you're only willing to sell them in pairs...then calling other members stupid for not being able to do math. Those are the one's I remember off the top of my head. Seems to me like the majority of your posts are errors. If all I did was spray paint the under dash and change the oil on my car, maybe I'd only have one error too /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

You've been around here since 04' and act like you haven't learned a thing from the knowledgeable group here. Maybe you are better suited for an extended membership over on T00ners?

I'm fine with posting up my mistakes here. I've got pages of sh*t I've fucked up. Hell, I pulled a motor out of 1813 because I forgot to tighten up one of the adjustable cam gears and misdiagnosed it. Currently, the front wheels on 1837 don't fit because of a big brake upgrade. Ooops /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif

Here's the difference between you and I. I can talk about what I've done, and show others how to avoid the mistakes I've made by posting it up here. I've got thread after thread of failures and successes. What do you have?

Yet again...NOT. sh*t.

You talk like you're all knowing, but I haven't seen anything out of you to back it up? Like I said, stick crying about rust, peddling overpriced parts and posting when parts are NLA and you'll be right at home here. Start giving technical advice, and judging from your past you're just going to make yourself look silly per the usual. GTFO, G.

 

[G]

I've forgotten more about 4g63's than you'll ever know. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif Wiring diagram? That dsm has been long gone. You think I still remember from 2001? Part #'s? Google. I never said aluminum, I said aluminum alloy. Look up the definition of alloy. Fp mani's don't cause heating problems, newbs do. Making more power with a lower temp stat is fact. How I price my parts fs is an error? Over priced parts? That's surprising to hear since you over-payed for your vr-4. Don't be mad because you got had. I don't need to post my successes or failures. I've been there done that. Blown up motors you name it. You need to because you're still learning and can't figure it out on your own. Plus it makes you feeeeel good. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif

 

[GSTwithPSI]

Quoting G:
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blah.gif



Per the usual, I hear a lot of talk and don't see sh*t else coming out of you. Called it.

You forgot more than I'll ever know? That's hilarious, seeing as you thought you botched up a timing belt job...the epitome of newb mistakes in regard to the 4G63.

And who posted to bail you out? Yours truly. ---> click

What a joke. Don't worry, G. I'm here for you /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif

 

[G]

Like I said that was the only error I've ever posted and that's only because I forgot which way it went due to the fact I've never used balance shaft belts before that one which was my first. I've always deleted them for the prior 5 or 6 4g63's. I've lost count. See what I mean about forgetting /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif I was ready to take it all apart and do it over, but as you get older you get lazy. Which you will learn in time. So I figured what the hell i'll ask peeps here to save me the time. Because i'm now old and lazy.

 

[bradrs]

Quoting GSTwithPSI:

When you say wired right, would that differ from the diagram I drew above? I basically just adapted the Denso coil in place of how an intrepid coil would be wired into the system. Thanks for the help.



Well the big thing with the AEM coils is that they will suck down a lot of current. And because of the way they wire, you fire 2 in parallel, not series, so that will double the current of just 1. So you are looking at probable 2-4 times the current draw of the standard ignition.

In terms of the drawing you did above, I will make a guess since I am not 100% positive on the Honda coils. But normally, on the coils with built in ignitors like the Evo, LS coils, etc. you have a 12V, a ground, and then a small signal that is the trigger. Your diagram wires them like standard coils with no integrated ignitor, in series. You would have to wire them in parallel. 12V to each of the 4 12V feeds, ground to each ground. And then the signal for the 1,4 channel should be from between the ECU and ignitor, for that channel. Same with the 2,3. Then you can delete the ignitor.

Even then, I can't guarantee it works, because that is a small signal. And sometimes it needs a better ground, or a higher voltage swing. It has been several years since the last time I looked at the DSM ignitor signal. And I have a bad memory when it comes to stuff like that. So I don't want to tell you I know for sure, when I really can't recall.

The PTU inverts the signal into it, and also drives a much higher current. So basically, if you wire that part wrong you will get the timing way off.

 

[bradrs]

Quoting G:

If I remember right, I actually used cbr 1000rr coils. I think the busa's were to long. This was 2001'ish in my dsm, before I was even a member here. Though I think I did post the part numbers for the coils a while back. Some of the really old posts from way back don't come up anymore.



Pretty much all of the bike coils are horrible for use on our cars. I do recall testing the CBR stuff, it wasn't a good match. It would work better than a defective stock coil, but it definitely wouldn't be as good as a good stock setup. They aren't designed to store the same amount of energy that our coils do.

 

[slugsgomoo]

Wouldn't that be due to the fact that they generally aren't run waste spark?

If run properly with a CDI it seems like bike coils would be fine, since their cycle time should be decent in that case. I know a gen 1 busa has a 12,500 limiter, and I have access to a set of coils on a shelf so it's been something i've contemplated for down the road myself.

 

[bradrs]

No, it has to do with the high RPM the bikes are designed for, as well as the small form factor. They have very little energy storage available. So they charge quick, like filling a thimble. Where the standard DSM coils are more like a pint glass. It takes a little longer to charge them. On the bike coils, you charge them, then just wind up wasting energy that doesn't go to the spark plug, or worse overheats the PTU.

Running with a CDI is a very big functional change to the way coils work. They no longer have a dwell where they store energy. That is why you can run the crappy bike coils with a CDI, and it will still work. They aren't necessarily preferred for that, but they will work.

The stock bike ignitions run at a very low energy( something like 20-40mJ). They do it with a small gap, and lots of timing advance. They aren't really designed to handle the heat of running more power through them. I have heard from many bikes who have had them die, most commonly in racing. Personally, my CBR1000RR has over 40K miles, stock coils. And I have a few other bikes with similar mileage/performance. But I wouldn't try to put them onto a car or use them on a non stock application.

 

[payne]

i'm working on my nephew's evo6 with the 4g63 motor
it looks to have the honda pencil coil conversion
is there any order to the wiring?
or is it just a case of the correct singal wiring colour to number 1+4 and 2+3
the car came to me non-running and partly dismantled
the cam timing had jumped and bent the inlet valves
the heads been sorted but i can't get it to run, its back firing through the inlet
it had all the wiring on the coil packs disconnected before i saw it hence why i'm asking about the order of the signal wiring
the cam timing has been checked and checked again to the mitsubishi manual
and the old school way of on the rock at tdc

the other question is can the cam sensor hall ring be refitted 180 deg out?