NateCrisman
Well-known member
I just went through clutch replacement and pedal adjustment on my VR4. (had an ACT street disk break the center hub apart). I put a stock 2g DSM disk in and reused the act2600pp.
I installed a new fork, pivot ball, TOB, and TOB clip while the trans was out, and it needed a big change in clutch pedal adjustment. The adjustment was all the way out on the last thread as if adjusted for worn out fork/pivot. So with a new shimmed fork, I had too much TOB travel, pushing the pp fingers into the disk, making a nasty noise, and balking up the shifting. I ended up backing the master cyl rod out 5 or 6 turns.
Anyway, one thing I can recommed is to unthread the master cyl rod from the linkage and put a second 8mm 1.25 nut on the shaft. It's much easier to jam up the double nuts and use a 12mm box wrench to turn the rod than it is to screw around with needle nose vise grips/pliers.
I installed a new fork, pivot ball, TOB, and TOB clip while the trans was out, and it needed a big change in clutch pedal adjustment. The adjustment was all the way out on the last thread as if adjusted for worn out fork/pivot. So with a new shimmed fork, I had too much TOB travel, pushing the pp fingers into the disk, making a nasty noise, and balking up the shifting. I ended up backing the master cyl rod out 5 or 6 turns.
Anyway, one thing I can recommed is to unthread the master cyl rod from the linkage and put a second 8mm 1.25 nut on the shaft. It's much easier to jam up the double nuts and use a 12mm box wrench to turn the rod than it is to screw around with needle nose vise grips/pliers.
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