DynastyLCD
Well-known member
Quoting toybreaker:
^^^ good post! ^^^
... After getting schooled by the damn link at the end of the clutch rod, (the one that actually pushes on the slave from inside the car) being loose and taking away needed travel ...
I triple check that first.
The last three or four have all been toast.
Repairing the linkage by welding the arm to the shaft and replacing the bushing returned the system to an unbelievably sweet level of operation.
TB always makes people feel good about making informative posts, haha.
one thing that should be noted, repairing the linkage by welding the arm, should theoretically only be done with new parts, to get the exact position correct. if you weld the assembly up with worn clutch pedal parts, you are taking a chance that the arm could be in the wrong position.
i don't always have access to a welder, i use a different method that i believe is pretty damned good. after rebuilding the clutch pedal assembly, i take a 10x1.25 locking exhaust nut with a 14mm head (i had a few from a manifold job i did awhile ago) coat all the threads with red loctite, and i install it with my impact gun. the locking nuts do a great job in staying where you torque them (sometimes they're a pain just to install in the first place) so you wont worry about it backing off and coming loose as you would with a factory setup! you don't have a solid linkage between the pedal and the arm through a weld, but under the force of the impact gun, the loctite and locking exhaust nut holding it under that force, it theoretically shouldn't ever round off, or at least take an extremely long time to do so.
^^^ good post! ^^^
... After getting schooled by the damn link at the end of the clutch rod, (the one that actually pushes on the slave from inside the car) being loose and taking away needed travel ...
I triple check that first.
The last three or four have all been toast.
Repairing the linkage by welding the arm to the shaft and replacing the bushing returned the system to an unbelievably sweet level of operation.
TB always makes people feel good about making informative posts, haha.
one thing that should be noted, repairing the linkage by welding the arm, should theoretically only be done with new parts, to get the exact position correct. if you weld the assembly up with worn clutch pedal parts, you are taking a chance that the arm could be in the wrong position.
i don't always have access to a welder, i use a different method that i believe is pretty damned good. after rebuilding the clutch pedal assembly, i take a 10x1.25 locking exhaust nut with a 14mm head (i had a few from a manifold job i did awhile ago) coat all the threads with red loctite, and i install it with my impact gun. the locking nuts do a great job in staying where you torque them (sometimes they're a pain just to install in the first place) so you wont worry about it backing off and coming loose as you would with a factory setup! you don't have a solid linkage between the pedal and the arm through a weld, but under the force of the impact gun, the loctite and locking exhaust nut holding it under that force, it theoretically shouldn't ever round off, or at least take an extremely long time to do so.