if price is a issue get the stock flywheel resurfaced and get a clutchnet red clutch... kevlar disk grabs nice and a little harder than stock on the pedal. I forgot how much i got mine from jesse @revoultion but its probbly around the price of a act 2600 or a little cheaper. I dont have 1000 miles on it yet but its taking the beating from my evo3 @ 20psi just fine.
The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource
Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey. Login to browse without most ads.
clutch bad funds low
- Thread starter mountaineerjeff
- Start date
mountaineerjeff
Well-known member
`now that I have help putting it in I should beable to afford it.now i need help on the DD differences between 6puck and full face
I have a 2600 with full face, and I love it. I have driven an unsprung 6 puck car and it sucks. A sprung 6 puck might be a great compromise if its cheap enough. I agree with Terry, call guy with ACT and ask, can't hurt.
Last edited by a moderator:
Terry Posten
Well-known member
A full face will be smoother but will not hold as much power.
A 6 puck is better for high power applications.
You just have to choose if your willing to live with a chatter every now and then.
In my opinion, you will not be happy with how a full face performs the way you want.
A 6 puck is better for high power applications.
You just have to choose if your willing to live with a chatter every now and then.
In my opinion, you will not be happy with how a full face performs the way you want.
As for the full face, my car has made from 370whp to 514 whp (on race gas) and I have had the 2600 with full face for like 2 or three years with no problems. You would be just as happy with a full face unless you go to the strip and hot-lap it like a merry go round.
mountaineerjeff
Well-known member
im never gonna have more than 430hp, I live in the mountains and use as a DD, I need some good tires the way It is just to keep on the road (reference to road/power ratio, not driving ability), and I dont think im past the 250 mark yet. Im not goin for record smashing power, just reliable sh*t-and-get. ive got to make hundreds of stop and go's in traffic every single day
Despite what I've read from others on this forum (but not in this thread)clutches ALWAYS hold torque and NEVER hp /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif. So now that we have that out of the way, are you trying to make 430 flywheel hp or 430 wheel hp?
If we are to assume that you do make 430 whp or at flywheel a 2100 (MB-010)with either a full face organic disc or any puck disc is not rated to hold that much torque and neither is a 2600 with a full face street disc. This is not to say that it can't or hasn't been done but if you're the kind of guy that lives his life a 1/4 mile at a time none of the aforementioned clutches will work for you. However if you drive in a "spirited" manner = no launching and excessive slipping of the clutch it may work in your favor.
If you're into drag racing and think you're the next Cruz Pederegon then a 2600 (MB-010X)with a sprung 6 puck disc is in your future. If you don't want to deal with the clutch chatter of a puck disc and the potential to wreak havoc on your drivetrain if used like a hammer head then a 3200 (MB-010XX)with a street disc will work for you. The draw back is a heavier pedal and less heat resistance to slipping and launching compared to the puck disc.
As with most things in life there are trade offs to each decision. Clutches, along with pedal feel and descriptions of engagement are as subjective as "how loud is your exhaust". Some can deal with some of the compromises, others can't. I always I advise people to get the clutch based on what you use the car for primarily. Driving around with a puck style clutch in a car that sees more time in traffic and the parking lot makes as much sense as driving around town and to the supermarket with drag radials year round when you go to the track twice a year.
All of the above is based on my 3+ years working at ACT and 11+ years in the industry. I'm certain there are people on here that know much more about this stuff on here than I do, so take it for what it's worth. Just my 2 cents.
BTW the torque capacity on the 2600 with a puck disc is going to be 513 ft.lbs at the flywheel and the 3200 with a street disc (which we don't recommend beacuse the thickness of disc may cause engagement problems)should be about the same as the 2600 + puck combo. We rate all of our clutches by torque (and were the first to do so) at the crank because there is no way ANYONE can rate clutches using whp accurately unless you spent the time dynoing every clutch combo on every dyno made to eliminate the differences in readings between them.
Daryl
If we are to assume that you do make 430 whp or at flywheel a 2100 (MB-010)with either a full face organic disc or any puck disc is not rated to hold that much torque and neither is a 2600 with a full face street disc. This is not to say that it can't or hasn't been done but if you're the kind of guy that lives his life a 1/4 mile at a time none of the aforementioned clutches will work for you. However if you drive in a "spirited" manner = no launching and excessive slipping of the clutch it may work in your favor.
If you're into drag racing and think you're the next Cruz Pederegon then a 2600 (MB-010X)with a sprung 6 puck disc is in your future. If you don't want to deal with the clutch chatter of a puck disc and the potential to wreak havoc on your drivetrain if used like a hammer head then a 3200 (MB-010XX)with a street disc will work for you. The draw back is a heavier pedal and less heat resistance to slipping and launching compared to the puck disc.
As with most things in life there are trade offs to each decision. Clutches, along with pedal feel and descriptions of engagement are as subjective as "how loud is your exhaust". Some can deal with some of the compromises, others can't. I always I advise people to get the clutch based on what you use the car for primarily. Driving around with a puck style clutch in a car that sees more time in traffic and the parking lot makes as much sense as driving around town and to the supermarket with drag radials year round when you go to the track twice a year.
All of the above is based on my 3+ years working at ACT and 11+ years in the industry. I'm certain there are people on here that know much more about this stuff on here than I do, so take it for what it's worth. Just my 2 cents.
BTW the torque capacity on the 2600 with a puck disc is going to be 513 ft.lbs at the flywheel and the 3200 with a street disc (which we don't recommend beacuse the thickness of disc may cause engagement problems)should be about the same as the 2600 + puck combo. We rate all of our clutches by torque (and were the first to do so) at the crank because there is no way ANYONE can rate clutches using whp accurately unless you spent the time dynoing every clutch combo on every dyno made to eliminate the differences in readings between them.
Daryl
mountaineerjeff
Well-known member
Quote:
Driving around with a puck style clutch in a car that sees more time in traffic and the parking lot makes as much sense as driving around town and to the supermarket with drag radials year round when you go to the track twice a year.
well then this seems to fit my original assumptions. the car is 100% DD. as far as power goes, 400 awhp is a goal, not where I stand now. so a full face is the way I need to go then? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
Driving around with a puck style clutch in a car that sees more time in traffic and the parking lot makes as much sense as driving around town and to the supermarket with drag radials year round when you go to the track twice a year.
well then this seems to fit my original assumptions. the car is 100% DD. as far as power goes, 400 awhp is a goal, not where I stand now. so a full face is the way I need to go then? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
GVR4_1057
Well-known member
I like the 2600/full face disc . It takes a lot of abuse and is not grabby to daily drive. It is a heavy pedal feel but not too bad. It was strong enough to run low 12s (occasionally)and it lasted years. I did have an ACT street disc that the springs broke in with my lower powered galant prompting me to try the slowboy disc which I like much better and it is built stronger. So my recommendation is ACT 2600# pp and slowboy street disc.
Quoting mountaineerjeff:
Quote:
Driving around with a puck style clutch in a car that sees more time in traffic and the parking lot makes as much sense as driving around town and to the supermarket with drag radials year round when you go to the track twice a year.
well then this seems to fit my original assumptions. the car is 100% DD. as far as power goes, 400 awhp is a goal, not where I stand now. so a full face is the way I need to go then? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
Based on our flywheel torque ratings, a 2600 with a street disc is rated at 400 ft. lbs of torque so using that as a guide the only other option that would be rated for what you need with a full face disc would be a 3200 with the street disc. There are tons of people that have made more than 400 awhp with a 2600 with a street disc (and that's what I personally would go with). I'm not going to recommend it to you because we rate it 400 flywheel torque and at the first sign of slippage I wouldn't want anyone to say " Daryl at ACT said" if you know what I mean /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif.
Daryl
Quote:
Driving around with a puck style clutch in a car that sees more time in traffic and the parking lot makes as much sense as driving around town and to the supermarket with drag radials year round when you go to the track twice a year.
well then this seems to fit my original assumptions. the car is 100% DD. as far as power goes, 400 awhp is a goal, not where I stand now. so a full face is the way I need to go then? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
Based on our flywheel torque ratings, a 2600 with a street disc is rated at 400 ft. lbs of torque so using that as a guide the only other option that would be rated for what you need with a full face disc would be a 3200 with the street disc. There are tons of people that have made more than 400 awhp with a 2600 with a street disc (and that's what I personally would go with). I'm not going to recommend it to you because we rate it 400 flywheel torque and at the first sign of slippage I wouldn't want anyone to say " Daryl at ACT said" if you know what I mean /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif.
Daryl
For those of you that want a lighter than sprung hub street disc option but don't want to deal with a puck or you're scared of springs popping out, we also offer a solid hub street disc. The drawbacks are that it will transmit more gear noise in the car because you don't have the springs to dampen torsional vibration and you can expect more decel noise. The benefits are that it weighs approx. 1/2 of what our sprung street disc does which allows for faster shifting and there are no springs to come out.
Since it still has the marcel between the linings(what contributes to the smooth engagement along with the friction material on a organic disc)it's not going to feel like an on/off switch and you shouldn't have to leave intersections at 1500 rpm so you don't stall the car or look like buck rodgers taking off.
Here's what it looks like.
The pic is of an Evo disc but you get the general idea.
Daryl
Since it still has the marcel between the linings(what contributes to the smooth engagement along with the friction material on a organic disc)it's not going to feel like an on/off switch and you shouldn't have to leave intersections at 1500 rpm so you don't stall the car or look like buck rodgers taking off.
Here's what it looks like.
The pic is of an Evo disc but you get the general idea.
Daryl
GVR4_1057
Well-known member
^ That is a cool part. Hmmmmmmm
mountaineerjeff
Well-known member
well I think I found a clutch, is there a difference between a 2g and our clutch? I know the flywheels are different
Struc
Well-known member
Clutches are the same.
