mk2davis
Well-known member
Keep us informed about progress.
How do I make sure the ISC is not bad? You’re talking about the ISC on the throttle body correct? Or do you mean the ISC driver inside the ECU?You need to ensure the ECU isn't damaged as @gvr4ever points out- If the caps are bad it explains a lot.
That said, I've seen a CAS go bad before where it was fine until the car warmed up and then it started reporting extremely erratic data (i.e. 11k+ RPM at idle, etc). I would not replace it until you get into the ECU and confirm what's actually wrong.
If the ISC driver on the ECU is smoked (also possible given the symptoms), don't plug the ecu in after getting it repaired until you verify the ISC isn't bad. I've had the FIAV leak into the ISC, short it, and kill two ECUs in a row before I checked, you don't want that evil on you
This helped a lot thank you so much!!
Here is the underside of the ECU boardHere is a picture of the ecu that was in my car. The caps look good but I can’t tell what I’m looking at for the drivers part. Maybe someone can see something I don’t.
View attachment 3032
View attachment 3033
I’ve changed the map sensor and the fuel pump is only 2 years old, it’s a walbro 525 Hellcat with the require kit, I’ve gone through the wires on the fuel pump and the relay is new and I checked and cleaned the grounds so still at a lost, I should have the new ECM link cable today fingers crossed that I can get more data from Link when it arrives today, stay tunedJust seen this.It sounds like a dead MAP sensor or a fuel pump issue
This makes sense. I tried to start the car with an almost dead battery a month ago, so I then bought a new battery, I reached out to my tuner who tuned my car back in 2020. Thanks for this information I would of never guessed that.The ecu resets when you try to start it with low voltage. I would go on the ecmlink forums and also there wiki has a simple rundown of how it works. If you don't want to wait you can just have someone remote tune it for you.