Car won't run right past three grand.. HELP?

I'll check autozone, i just thought all their's was obd2.

I'll check Maf tomorrow i got ton's to replace them.. and i'll check wires.

 

Gram, so your saying if just the wire is opened it'll run like complete crap?

 

[yeti]

yes my 5v signal output to my ecu was hanging there and it would cause my maf to be read as dead and my CEL was on if your wire is frayed it could be the cause.

 

Alright looks like I'm starting with the maf and wires! Thanks for all the input Guy's!!!!
Will post when I try it!

 

[Terry Posten]

Download and print the ECU printout on the www.vfaq.com and trace each wire from the plug in the engine bay to the ECU plug. Make sure there is no resistance and no open circuits.

 

I'll check it out terry! However I traced wires with a flashlight and found a broken wire... I fixed so I'm gonna try starting it in the morning..

 

Okay, so i fixed the broken wire on the MAF, i unpluged my ecu cause it wasn't starting then i switched with the one that was making it run even worse, then it started up, i tried driving it, then the problem started to get better as i drove it.. well i went on the next block next to my house and started comming back home, then it stalled out on the next street and will not fire again..


AT this point i am putting all the stock innercooler piping i have from my other VR4.
and anything else that looks like its been messed with..i'm checking all wiring..

I'm puzzled at this point.

 

Okay latest update,

i currently switched everything back to stock including everything.. Welp now it apparently skipped timing about a tooth..

so now i gotta start from scratch.

 

[teet]

please keep in mind that if what I described is wrong...you look at all the notches...and they look like they all line up. But they aren't really lined up.

You can check if the crank notch is aligned correctly by pulling #1 plug...putting a wood dowel or something down in there so you can tell piston location...and then turning the engine over by hand until the notch on the crank says it should be at top dead center...and see if the piston is really at TDC. If its not. bingo.

I had this same problem and chased electrical gremlins for 5 months...switched turbos, ecu systems...blah blah blah. Till one day in a parking lot a guy clued me in.

John

 

The timing mark below clearly doesn't match up with the tdc slash I'll try sticking something down in the cylinder and check again..

 

[teet]

Stupid observation...you have to turn the engine by hand to make the notch line up with TDC...right...then you see if piston is REALLY at TDC

Thx
John

 

Well yea. I always turn it by hand I've always had them lined up but I didn't think to double check..

 

[marvinmadman]

One tooth off would definitely make it run like you say, happened to me. I had a knock gauge to see it knock around 3k before it fell on its face. Any boost and it would die.

 

Well i got into my Garage after i pulled the other one out..
I ripped everything off the timing side, i double checked all my marks and they all lined up.
i Used a screwdriver and watched it go up and down and all the marks lined up..so im guessing my
HB was not lined up right.


So I guess from here, I still have this da*m problem!

 

Could possibly the CAS cause this problem being to far advance?
I got the car from the buddy the way it is..so i havent adjusted anything.



Thanks Guy's!

 

[marvinmadman]

sure could

 

Hmm, it look's really adjusted out too..i'll try that tomorrow morning after i put the car back together.

 

I CURRENTLY GOT THE CAR TO RUN RIGHT..

Come to find out when the car has a broken 2g maf wire..CAS wire's broken.
when you fix them it make's a difference.


Thank's for all the info, and advice guy's!

 

[gramkrakr89]

so CAS and MAF - you certainly had your work cut out for you -

here's to running well!

 

Well switching all innercooler piping, mafs,cas, and some other crap.

But thanks!