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Thats good reading material I've been trying to find. Thank you /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
I have the timing marks lined up already on the camshaft sprockets. When I took the head off, pistons 1&4 were @ TDC and 2&3 @ BDC. Do I need to consider what stroke the pistons were at like the intake, compression, power and exhaust strokes? I really don't wanna bend these valves which is the main concern for me. I looked through the VFAQ link Alpha provided and never really touched on TDC or BDC for timing.
IncorpoRatedX
Well-known member
nope, timing mark aligned is all you need.
the pistons/rods are simply moving up and down, they have no specific action that corresponds with the 4 cycles.
do note, work the belt onto the components in clockwise order, exhaust cam to intake cam to idler pulley to oil pump to crank to tensioner pulley
you have play in the crank and cams before they ever contact, generally the crank will need to be bumped backwards a touch to allow the belt to slide on, dont stress out, there's a lot of slack and you'd be hard pressed to f*** anything up simply working things back and forth by hand.
once complete, using a 1/2 inch ratched, work the crank pulley 6 complete rotations, count each time the timing mark on the crank passes its point.
after 6 rotations, stop, check everything, you can do this prior to releasing the hydraulic timing tensioner.
also, on the timing tensioner pulley, you tighten the pulley clockwise, the two holes should never go past horizontal, at that point, the belt is 'too tight' and yes, there is such a thing.
i've been doing timing belts on these cars for ten years, i understand the fear, it can seem really scarey if you havent done it, but i did one this afternoon, took me ten minutes and was dead on, once you understand the way to do it, you'll loose that fear.
take your time, dont stress, sit there and stare at it for a while if you want.
Don't drink a beer... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
That's about all the advice i have pertaining to the timing right now... remember, dont over tighten the belt, puts excess stress on sh*t.
the pistons/rods are simply moving up and down, they have no specific action that corresponds with the 4 cycles.
do note, work the belt onto the components in clockwise order, exhaust cam to intake cam to idler pulley to oil pump to crank to tensioner pulley
you have play in the crank and cams before they ever contact, generally the crank will need to be bumped backwards a touch to allow the belt to slide on, dont stress out, there's a lot of slack and you'd be hard pressed to f*** anything up simply working things back and forth by hand.
once complete, using a 1/2 inch ratched, work the crank pulley 6 complete rotations, count each time the timing mark on the crank passes its point.
after 6 rotations, stop, check everything, you can do this prior to releasing the hydraulic timing tensioner.
also, on the timing tensioner pulley, you tighten the pulley clockwise, the two holes should never go past horizontal, at that point, the belt is 'too tight' and yes, there is such a thing.
i've been doing timing belts on these cars for ten years, i understand the fear, it can seem really scarey if you havent done it, but i did one this afternoon, took me ten minutes and was dead on, once you understand the way to do it, you'll loose that fear.
take your time, dont stress, sit there and stare at it for a while if you want.
Don't drink a beer... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
That's about all the advice i have pertaining to the timing right now... remember, dont over tighten the belt, puts excess stress on sh*t.
Quoting JackM:
I would leave the bottom end alone until you can build an awesome one with more money later on.
Building the bottom end is part of the new plans. Car is basically gonna be all brand new mechanically once all is done. Going with Manley pistons, BC I-Beam rods, Clevite bearings (mine were shot once the pistons were removed) and an Eagle crank. After reading some info on VFAQ, would I be better off with an oem t-belt or the Gates t-belt? It's kevlar so it's strong and reliable right?
I would leave the bottom end alone until you can build an awesome one with more money later on.
Building the bottom end is part of the new plans. Car is basically gonna be all brand new mechanically once all is done. Going with Manley pistons, BC I-Beam rods, Clevite bearings (mine were shot once the pistons were removed) and an Eagle crank. After reading some info on VFAQ, would I be better off with an oem t-belt or the Gates t-belt? It's kevlar so it's strong and reliable right?
IncorpoRatedX
Well-known member
What are you goals with this car? That's a 600 or more HP set up... no offense, but if you struggle with the timing, don't bother building a drag car. A simple, base power upgraded car with a focus on reliability and handling is far beyond what most people actually need and generally, something that anyone will enjoy.
I say that, but no one ever listens until they go down that road and come back saying 'i should have kept it simple'
unless you want a garage, drag car... then have at it.
I say that, but no one ever listens until they go down that road and come back saying 'i should have kept it simple'
unless you want a garage, drag car... then have at it.
I just want a bomb proof, leak proof motor that'll handle 450whp or more. I know it sounds like I'm going overkill on this build but at least I'll have that peace of mind when I'm running flat out. This build will also give me some play room when I get an FP Red turbo kit, better fmic, and larger injectors (maybe 850cc, running on 660cc now). I'm curious as to how much the stock bottom end can handle.
IncorpoRatedX
Well-known member
almost 500 hp...
stock bottom end is pretty 'bomb proof'
let me ask you this, have you driven a 300 hp VR4 yet?
if the answer is no, you're just like everyone else that doesnt know what they actually want, just thinks the idea of a 450hp car is good. I guarantee that anyone out there who drives a 300hp, stock long block DSM/VR4/EVO will think the car is a blast and the best part is, it will be very reliable and considerably cheaper than a built engine.
I can tell im wasting my time though, so build it to the moon!
stock bottom end is pretty 'bomb proof'
let me ask you this, have you driven a 300 hp VR4 yet?
if the answer is no, you're just like everyone else that doesnt know what they actually want, just thinks the idea of a 450hp car is good. I guarantee that anyone out there who drives a 300hp, stock long block DSM/VR4/EVO will think the car is a blast and the best part is, it will be very reliable and considerably cheaper than a built engine.
I can tell im wasting my time though, so build it to the moon!
Yea, mine was floating around that power range. 1886 would put STi's in their place lol.
Edit: Also, I believe the previous owner (Peter) ran nitrous in the car which would explain why the rings looked so shitty. There's a ss N20 line from the trunk to the engine bay. Considering I'm the 4th owner of the car I have no idea what the hell the car has been put through.
Edit: Also, I believe the previous owner (Peter) ran nitrous in the car which would explain why the rings looked so shitty. There's a ss N20 line from the trunk to the engine bay. Considering I'm the 4th owner of the car I have no idea what the hell the car has been put through.
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So I'm a few days away from ordering parts. I'm 90% certain on the parts I'm getting but wanted some feedback on connecting rods. I talked to one of my instructors at school who's been drag racing for a couple of decades about H-beam and I-beam rods. He says he's always ran the eagle h-beams with no problems in his race motors. Keep in mind this dude is old school so he runs the Novas, Malibus, Chevelles, anything with a carb. He mentioined that the I-beam rods might not fit the 4G63 right due to the thickness.
So my question for you guys is H-Beam or I-Beam rods? I'm leaning more towards the h-beam but not entirely sure.
So my question for you guys is H-Beam or I-Beam rods? I'm leaning more towards the h-beam but not entirely sure.
Dark_Horse
Well-known member
Depends on your power goals. Eagle H-Beams are rated out of the box to 600HP and some people have run them up to the 700/800hp mark.
IMHO, any higher than 600WHP and you're way out of daily driver status. Basically, over 600WHP I'd start thinking about aluminum rods.
IMHO, any higher than 600WHP and you're way out of daily driver status. Basically, over 600WHP I'd start thinking about aluminum rods.
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Lol I don't plan to go any higher than 450awhp, 600+ is just too much to go wrong with the tight tolerances (not too mention the crappier gas mileage. Just a strong bottom end to handle the power is all I'm going for.
Now, just waiting on parts...fun fun fun. Can't wait to get it all back together.
After much encouragement with PB blast and a cheater bar I have the crank out. Now, this means I can get the rotating assembly balanced for the new rods and pistons and finally get my car back together. I'm very f*ckin excited!
GSX_TC
Well-known member
Yeah I bet. I love those times
Where can I find bearing clearance and cylinder out-of-round/taper wear specs? I started measurments on the block and I need the specs to make sure the block is still good.
The service you can find here on the forum has them. Also, I may have posted them somewhere. I posted all the hed reqork specs at one point also. As far as taper and oor go, mitsubishi wants almost none, something like .0001 I believe for taper (don't quote me). My advice is don't waste your time, bore it .030 over and get pistons and rings for that.
