Can't remove the damn flywheel bolts

Kind of like the one on the VFAQ? I am curious as to whether or not I really need that since I have the extra breaker bar on the crank pulley. I am already using the 6 point but it is a deep socket. Could you expand on the hammer wrench part please?

Quoting Beaner:
I'd be uncomfortable with using heat on the crank. Bolts like to break lose, so you'll probably have better luck with a good sized hammer and a wrench. 6 pt is a good idea to prevent stripped the bolt head.

I made a tool out of scrap metal years back I use all the time. It simply connects the block to the flywheel. Uses one of the pressure plate boltholes on the flywheel and one of the top transmission to block boltholes. With it on you can really torque on those flywheel bolts [either direction] and the engine won't turn on you.

 

I did exactly this right down to the part number. No bolts will turn even with the 250 foot pound rating.

Quoting Muskrat:
Go to Harbor Freight and get this. It'll do it, even with red lock-tight. How do I know? I just did it 5 minutes ago /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

It's pretty big, but comes in really handy.

 

Dunno, It didn't work for me, but sure feels like it is very powerful.

Quoting BarnesMobile:
I wonder if that electric impact wrench is any different than the one I have. It looks the same, and is a heap of sh*t. Only reason I got it was because a store around here was closing down and I got it crazy discounted. It can barely remove lug nuts. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

Oh boy, I have been heating the center of the bolt more or less.

Quoting G:
When you tried "heat" what part exactly did you heat up?

Quoting blkchr91:
I want to get the flywheel off. I have tried heat, 1/2 breaker bars with 17mm deep sockets, pb blaster over and over, torch with heat, and a 1/2 impact wrench (3.5 hp 6 gallon compressor is all I can afford).

Any ideas on how to get these bolts out? The socket goes flying off before I give.

Thanks

 

Is it something that can be done with a dremel, or do I need a grinding wheel to get it off? I am at the end of my spending ability on this. Could you expand on grinding the lip?

Quoting thedsmguy:
Grind the "guiding" lip off the socket you are using. Make it "flat" on the face of the socket so that you get the most grab out of the socket and it will NOT slip off those short headed bolts.

Good luck.

 

I might try this out.

Quoting mitsuturbo:
dont be afraid to whack the bolts nice and hard, dead center with a nice punch and a 2.5lb hammer.. i've had this help break things loose a great deal when working "out in the field" without air tools

 

Heh, seriously I have had the torch to them for 5 minutes and nothing leaks out.

Quoting trunks:
I always try to get right on them while they're still hot. I've used a propane torch before and seen the red locktite start dripping out of there. Maybe try one at a time and don't let them cool down /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

 

I have not even gotten close to this point unfortunately.

Quoting Specter:
Start wrenching as soon as the bolt stops glowing from heat.

 

I'll take this advice.

Quoting donkeylips:
Quoting G:
Since the op is not responding to my question, i'll just say that I am reading a lot of bad advice regarding the heating method. You should not be heating the bolt but rather the flywheel surface around the bolt. Heating the bolt makes it bigger. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif


Yes the point is to expand the hole so that the bolt has an easier time coming out, but its kind of like splitting hairs - how accurate are you gonna get with a torch? If you heat right next to the bolts, they will still get hot enough to glow often times. The process of the bolt and hole expanding and contracting at different rates should help break it free. In a case like this I think heating the bolt itself will probably help you more than hurt you, but yes, heat the area around the bolt. And when you're dealing with nuts you want to heat the nut.

 

What is Kroil, I haven't gone to the back of the flywheel. I will do that as well.

Quoting Launch:
Kroil. Let it soak behind the fly as well. REAL stuff, not lik pb blaster crap.

 

Ok, is this stuff easy to get at my low end auto parts store?

Quoting FlyingEagle:
Just a thought when heating. Using a propane torch will not get you hot enough to do anything more than melt solder. You need MAP gas or a Oxy/Acetylene mixture to get enough heat into those areas, or actually be able to get something hot. Follow all the advice posted earlier, use heat as the last resort.

 

In summary,

I have learned to stop heating the bolt. I also learned that I might need something hotter than propane, but that it might not be a good idea.

So some questions are:

1) Can I get the MAPP stuff etc. at a low end auto parts store and is it plug and play like Propane?
2) Do I need to make that flywheel tool or is it a moot point now since the other breaker bar is holding things firmly in place?
3) Do I need to lose the deep socket?
4) Any other thoughts on the punch and the big hammer? How does it work? Will I see the bolts come loose after hitting them, or do I have to break them loose every time?
5) What about a 3/4 inch breaker bar? Might that help more?
6) Is the fact that I have to do this in freezing or below freezing weather playing a role? It is in a carport.
7) So the impact or heat can wreck my engine by wrecking the crankshaft? How do I determine whether or not the engine is wrecked? Do I have to start it up and wait for it to grenade? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif I know that my question shows that I am an amateur but so what. Who wants to go through all of this time and expense to find out that I have already wrecked my engine by putting an impact and heat to it?

Thanks for all of your help so far!!!

 

MAPP gas and that impact made short work of this. Borrowed it from neighbor. I will never go back to Propane for a job like this. Thanks again everyone!