Broken Control Arm now with pics

[Myles]

I couldn't get the long screw undone. So I PB blasted the sh*t out of it. I'm all Hope to get her finished up tomorrow.

 

[Armitage]

Quote:
Yea, they are pretty gross after all the years. Did you do the 1 AWD Prothane kit or just go with oem? I did the Protanes and they went in super easy since you don't need a press for the fronts. Summit was only 50$ to my door next day for the entire front control arm kit. Then I did Moog Tie Rod ends and TRW(?) Ball joints from Advance since Summit only had one Moog brand in stock when I needed them.

Just having all that stuff replaced make the car drive so much better.



I used Energy Suspension bushings I got years ago and never got around to installing. Yea I was pleasantly surprised that they did not need to be pressed in.. Although I rented a $140 balljoint press kit from the autoparts store which had enough attachments to make short work of the bushings as well. Not sure of the brand of balljoint I used, it was made in japan and did not have a grease fitting (which is a plus because the only time I ever used one like that it broke off, probably during a rallyx or something). I got it at Advance.

 

[Polish]

They are probably the same ones I got. About 30$ a piece and came with new nuts and boots. As well as the locking clip. Fyi, the stock 1g j pipe is the perfect press to get the boot on without tearing it, the same can not be said for the 32mm socket I tried on the first one. So in true DSM/GVR4 fashion there is some plastic wraped around and zip tied on the seal it up until I bother getting a new boot. The slit wasn't bad but I am weird and don't like it like that.

 

[Myles]

Finally got it off and replaced. And it's not pulling anymore. A couple problems I ran into along the way were the 17mm bolt in between the two 14mm nuts. The 17mm bolt has the threads striped and is now about a little less than 1/4 of the way out. I was able to slip the arm out of the bushing with the cover lowered.

Also the new ball joint nut was not tightening but I found out that placing the jack under the ball joint would hold it in place so it wouldn't spin. Everything is buttoned up except that one 17 bolt. I'm going to bring in down the street and see if the mechanic and do something about it. Now I just need to get an alignment cause the steering wheel is still off by an inch or so but at least it isn't pulling.

Here are some pictures of the old control arm.

 

[OldHairyBastard]

That is by far the worst control arm I've ever seen without just breaking by itself.---WOW!!! Your lucky it didn't go out on you at high speed.

 

[Rausch]

the ball joint think is normal. the "ball likes to spin under torque, so you have to kind of pinch it in place to tighten the nut. that part is right on. sometimes you get lucky, and it holds by itself...good work man! now onto bigger, and less scary things!!

oh, and as soon as i get some mini DV tape, i'll upload a little session for ya!!!

 

[1gnasty]

holly mother of rust /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif

 

[kcpaz]

OHG!!!! is that rust??? If so, I would replace all of the remaining arms on the car just to be safe.

 

wow, crazy rust. stuff on the west coast NEVER rusts out like that. FWIW, did you check the bore/taper of the knuckle or inspect the balljoint for bending or stretching? the fact that the balljoint is spinning in the taper could mean that the hole is egg shaped. this can lead to a balljoint stud snapping off if it don't seat right. also, when you get a tie rod end or balljoint that spins and the taper is good, stick a pry bar on it and push down. it works every time.

 

[Rausch]

Quote:
stick a pry bar on it and push down. it works every time.


that'll work too, but its usually a bit tougher with the limited access, and doing this by yourself. the pressure from the bottom does the same thing, just from the other side. i have found that certain cars work better with one or the other. as in one is easier to do than the other on different cars.

 

[steve]

I've had worse /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/idea.gif

 

[CP]

I don't know how some of you can drive around knowing that your car is ready to kill you. That's beyond dangerous.

 

[ercp98]

so where is the member who's gonna sell us a new control arm (tubular). it is february already.

 

[CP]

Mitsubishi has lots of control arms for sale. Pushing for the tubular arms is just going to piss off the guy developing them. Good things come to those who wait.

 

[Aaron]

very good information here, just did mine about a month ago for the first time.
only problem I ran into was that I stripped the 14mm swaybar link /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
Other than that, it went very smooth. (thanks to doug driving parts up to me).

 

[jepherz]

Wow, that is horrible rust. I didn't know that was possible...

 

[OldHairyBastard]

Myles was lucky that you had the left side because he had the right side. He came on up and picked up a N/A TB with all the sensors on it as well as the control arm. He hit a few snags but she's back up and running. I'm all out of control arms now.---LOL--- I hope I don't need one.

Doug
Quote:
very good information here, just did mine about a month ago for the first time.
only problem I ran into was that I stripped the 14mm swaybar link /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
Other than that, it went very smooth. (thanks to doug driving parts up to me).