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Best price on ACT Clutches
- Thread starter deez
- Start date
4thStroke
Well-known member
ACT 2600 street disc.
Quoting deez:
Well then I am still clueless. But there's nothing new there. Someone tell me what to get so I dont have to decide
The 2100 is rated at 322 ft. lbs at the crank with a street disc.
The 2600 is rated at 400 ft. lbs at the crank with a street disc.
Based on what you're making the 2100 is more than enough for you, you'll have the minimum amount of increase in pedal effort and still have good street drivability. If you plan on making a bit more the 2600 with a street disc will suit you better.
IMO I would get the 2100 if your plans are to stick with the E16G.
Daryl
Well then I am still clueless. But there's nothing new there. Someone tell me what to get so I dont have to decide
The 2100 is rated at 322 ft. lbs at the crank with a street disc.
The 2600 is rated at 400 ft. lbs at the crank with a street disc.
Based on what you're making the 2100 is more than enough for you, you'll have the minimum amount of increase in pedal effort and still have good street drivability. If you plan on making a bit more the 2600 with a street disc will suit you better.
IMO I would get the 2100 if your plans are to stick with the E16G.
Daryl
Last edited by a moderator:
Dialcaliper
Well-known member
I might recommend the RRE "no-name" clutch. They have an Evo clutch by the same name, but it was developed for 2G's as a "sleeper" clutch to prevent dealers from voiding warranty in crankwalk issues because of a painted "aftermarket clutch" being installed.
In any case, it isn't really listed anywhere on their site, except in the comparison table, and it's referenced in the Evo no-name clutch description. You have to actually call them up and ask about it - they may still have some in stock.
It's a 2700 pound pressure plate they had custom made with diaphram angles to make it a bit lighter on the pedal than the ACT 2600. Used with an ACT street disc, holding power should be about comparable. I haven't had a chance to try mine out yet, but it they've never had any complaints.
Clutchnet actually makes some of the best clutch discs around, even if their pressure plates are about on par. I'm planning to run the RRE clutch with a clutchnet sprung 6-puck, with bonded friction material (the last part is important - most street clutches use marcel, which is a spring material to spread the "friction zone" out and make for smoother clutch engagement - new cars with easy clutches use a lot of it. The problem is that the friction material can only be floating, riveted in place instead of solidly fixed. Bonded discs can take much more abuse, and are normally only found on unsprung discs, but if you call and ask, clutchnet will make a sprung one for you.
Anyway, so far it's the best clutch setup I've come up with that makes the fewest compromises without going to a twin disc. We'll see how it actually plays out.
Check out the table about halfway down This page. Also, Here is the backstory/description of the Evo version.
In any case, it isn't really listed anywhere on their site, except in the comparison table, and it's referenced in the Evo no-name clutch description. You have to actually call them up and ask about it - they may still have some in stock.
It's a 2700 pound pressure plate they had custom made with diaphram angles to make it a bit lighter on the pedal than the ACT 2600. Used with an ACT street disc, holding power should be about comparable. I haven't had a chance to try mine out yet, but it they've never had any complaints.
Clutchnet actually makes some of the best clutch discs around, even if their pressure plates are about on par. I'm planning to run the RRE clutch with a clutchnet sprung 6-puck, with bonded friction material (the last part is important - most street clutches use marcel, which is a spring material to spread the "friction zone" out and make for smoother clutch engagement - new cars with easy clutches use a lot of it. The problem is that the friction material can only be floating, riveted in place instead of solidly fixed. Bonded discs can take much more abuse, and are normally only found on unsprung discs, but if you call and ask, clutchnet will make a sprung one for you.
Anyway, so far it's the best clutch setup I've come up with that makes the fewest compromises without going to a twin disc. We'll see how it actually plays out.
Check out the table about halfway down This page. Also, Here is the backstory/description of the Evo version.
Last edited:
Lonewolf64
Well-known member
Quoting vr4underboost:
Quoting deez:
Well then I am still clueless. But there's nothing new there. Someone tell me what to get so I dont have to decide
The 2100 is rated at 322 ft. lbs at the crank with a street disc.
The 2600 is rated at 400 ft. lbs at the crank with a street disc.
Based on what you're making the 2100 is more than enough for you, you'll have the minimum amount of increase in pedal effort and still have good street drivability. If you plan on making a bit more the 2600 with a street disc will suit you better.
IMO I would get the 2100 if your plans are to stick with the E16G.
Daryl
I make a little over 300 ft/lbs of torque at the wheels with my bolt on Evo3 16g setup. I would definitely not want to have an ACT 2100, because that would be cutting it close and I could have to deal with a slipping clutch.
In my opinion, the proper thing to do is to get an ACT2600 with street disc.
Quoting deez:
Well then I am still clueless. But there's nothing new there. Someone tell me what to get so I dont have to decide
The 2100 is rated at 322 ft. lbs at the crank with a street disc.
The 2600 is rated at 400 ft. lbs at the crank with a street disc.
Based on what you're making the 2100 is more than enough for you, you'll have the minimum amount of increase in pedal effort and still have good street drivability. If you plan on making a bit more the 2600 with a street disc will suit you better.
IMO I would get the 2100 if your plans are to stick with the E16G.
Daryl
I make a little over 300 ft/lbs of torque at the wheels with my bolt on Evo3 16g setup. I would definitely not want to have an ACT 2100, because that would be cutting it close and I could have to deal with a slipping clutch.
In my opinion, the proper thing to do is to get an ACT2600 with street disc.
Quoting deez:
I hate shopping for clutches. ACT 2100 apparently wont hold up, 2600 will be will give you a bigger left leg, centerforce doesn't hold up, what I had didnt. Is there such a thing as a streetable clutch, no chatter, no big left leg, and durable??
I have a ACT 2600 on my car and it feels almost like a stock clutch. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
I hate shopping for clutches. ACT 2100 apparently wont hold up, 2600 will be will give you a bigger left leg, centerforce doesn't hold up, what I had didnt. Is there such a thing as a streetable clutch, no chatter, no big left leg, and durable??
I have a ACT 2600 on my car and it feels almost like a stock clutch. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
mitsuturbo
Well-known member
Quoting deez:
Nice explanation. the car is mild, E16G at 20lbs with supporting mods. So upper 200's is my guess for horsepower. As for driving, I drive it. I don't abuse it, but I like to run it thru the gears.
I would like to run the 2100, but I read posts about how people go through them with spirited driving.
As for what failed, they said the clutch material was worn, and the pp had some pretty good hot spots. The clutch did slip on me twice pretty good, but thats it.
I ran a STOCK pp and a 6 puck solid hub for a long time, and it held up pretty damn well. Engagement was something i had to get used to, but it worked and lasted. That was when i was running a sm16g and also during the time i ran an evo3 16g. I tried 6 puck sprung hubs, and just like jackstransmission says, they bust hubs at the rivets a lot.
Nice explanation. the car is mild, E16G at 20lbs with supporting mods. So upper 200's is my guess for horsepower. As for driving, I drive it. I don't abuse it, but I like to run it thru the gears.
I would like to run the 2100, but I read posts about how people go through them with spirited driving.
As for what failed, they said the clutch material was worn, and the pp had some pretty good hot spots. The clutch did slip on me twice pretty good, but thats it.
I ran a STOCK pp and a 6 puck solid hub for a long time, and it held up pretty damn well. Engagement was something i had to get used to, but it worked and lasted. That was when i was running a sm16g and also during the time i ran an evo3 16g. I tried 6 puck sprung hubs, and just like jackstransmission says, they bust hubs at the rivets a lot.
Quoting deez:
And what about the 2900 with supposedly an easier feel at the pedal?
A 2600 by design is going to feel a bit stiffer than a 2900 because of the diaphragm design and increased clamp load over a 2600. Unless you can compare using both pressure plates in the same car their can be factors that will make one feel stiffer than it's supposed to be. Something as simple as using the wrong lube on the input shaft will increase the bearing load = pedal effort felt.
Daryl
And what about the 2900 with supposedly an easier feel at the pedal?
A 2600 by design is going to feel a bit stiffer than a 2900 because of the diaphragm design and increased clamp load over a 2600. Unless you can compare using both pressure plates in the same car their can be factors that will make one feel stiffer than it's supposed to be. Something as simple as using the wrong lube on the input shaft will increase the bearing load = pedal effort felt.
Daryl
CP
Well-known member
Never had a problem with my ClutchNet Red with a ported E316G, lots of track days and zero hard launches.
That's what I am replacing, now with an ACT 2600. It was chattery for me, though I hear people have no issues with that. Eh, whatever. Clutches are one of those things that vary. Everyone has different experiences with everything, so all one can do is base their actions on opinion and what they have had experience with. I had an ACT 2100 in my Conquest running low 13's, and it did well. So I figure go along the same route. It unfortunately seems like more of a guessing game than a science.
