Battery Trunk Relocation

[mitsuturbo]

Wasn't thinking right. Made another thread. Shoulda just put what i wanted to see here.

The best trunk mounted battery setup i've seen yet, is the one in 1051. I know some of you out there also have really well thought out trunk mounts... i'd like to see them, with detailed information of what wiring/switch you used, if possible. I know a dual circuit switch is REQUIRED on our cars to pass tech inspection. I've yet to find online, a flaming river "big switch" with a dual circuit, though. I know it's weak to bite off someone else's setup, but i'd really like to do a thru-taillight like Mark's done. Of course, i'm open to alternative configurations.

Also, how do you mount a battery inside the battery box? I've never seen inside a properly mounted battery box. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif I *really* do not understand putting a battery inside a metal box, either! I'd like to go with a plastic batt box, to reduce possibility of shorting. I just picked up a new optima yellow top tonight, so my choice has been made to go with a trunk mount. I dont want it to be just slapped in there like it was on 1411. This needs to be a proper, clean install, and retain the spare tire.

Photos of ONLY trunk mounted battery setups would be great here. I do not care to hear about ANY under-hood alternatives. So let me see whatcha got. WITH DETAILS.

Edit: after some MOAR searching, i came up with this photo.. this will help me a little.

Although, I really need to see how the battery is mounted inside the box, as well. I also still want to see other configs, and switch options.

So far, this thread is ok, but i don't really see a whole lot here that i can really use. The support structure looks nice to get the battery more out of the way. I suppose i could maybe do that to hold a battery box, once i see how they're held down and the battery is secured inside.

 

[turbowop]

That pic is pretty old, but the wiring is mostly the same, albeit cleaner now. I'll have to find the detailed ones I have saved somewhere to show how it's all mounted with the box now. Basically, the hold-down bolts go through the bottom of the box inside of it and the strap holds down the battery and the box. Then you can remove the lid freely.

 

[JSchleim18]

I used an aluminum plate bolted down to the bumper bracket under the carpet you see in the pic. Then I drilled a small hole to hold down the other side of the plate. I drilled small holes in the same aluminum plate for the battery tie down.

Also have a 4 post cut off switch in the back there and a 200A circuit breaker. Should be good enough for HPDE.

Battery box is Summit Racing but it was clean and looks good.

 

[mitsuturbo]

Very nice, JSchleim18. Precisely what i'm looking for. Once we get turbowop's up here, we'll have a thread that basically shows the "right" way to trunk mount a battery! I knew you guys wouldn't disappoint! Thank you.

 

[iceman69510]

My battery is not held down in the box, but I used factory style j-bolts to bolt the entire box to the mount, which is of course bolted to the floor.

Not set up with any kill switch though, just a streetcar.

 

[turbowop]

Here are a few pics of my setup that are already on my HDD.

From above:




From the side, you can see the hold down rod exiting the box and going through the trunk floor:




Rod is held in place under trunk floor by one large washer and nut on either side of the unibody rail:




Old battery terminal is turned around and held to the large fuse box cover with a custom zip-tie configuration. 2awg wire feeds the battery in the trunk and a separate 4awg wire feeds the alternator wire back to the kill switch/battery.

 

[mitsuturbo]

Thanks so much. This is perfect!

I'll be doing my box very similar to this, and the switch as well.
I'll have a slightly different setup under the hood, though. I'll add to this thread when i do my install. Hopefully in a couple of weeks.

 

[SmoothCustomer]

Quoting turbowop:
Here are a few pics of my setup that are already on my HDD.





Are you venting your battery? If you are, how are you doing this?

 

[turbowop]

No, although the box came with some tubing that would be used as the vent. That would require drilling a hole in the box and a hole in the trunk floor to pass the tubing through to use as a vent. Since I have a sealed Optima, I didn't bother. Just having the box and kill switch satisfied any track officials looking at my setup so far.

 

[mitsuturbo]

I need to figure out how I'm going to do this, and have a kill switch that actually shuts the car off.
I was thinking maybe a dual circuit switch, with the small (secondary) circuit running to primary power on the ECU, or maybe something on the alternator.

First, i wonder how the plastic plug and 2 wires on the alternator works... does anyone know? It just brings up the field so it will charge, doesn't it? I was thinking it would be best to maybe put one of those two wires on the switch, since they don't carry charge current, right? I was hoping to get by with some 8 gauge or so, for that. I've already got 1/0 AWG to run from batt to factory terminal (junction post, actually) and a fancy schmancy battery terminal to match. I've got a 140a circuit breaker, but the posts seem kinda small. I may get something more suited for 0awg wire, if i can find it.

Any suggestions are welcome. I don't want to have to unplug the 2 prong on the alternator when i go to the track, just to pass tech as i've done before.

 

[iceman69510]

Quoting turbowop:
That would require drilling a hole in the box and a hole in the trunk floor to pass the tubing through to use as a vent.



There are drain plug grommets in the wells at either side of the trunk compartment (more easily seen from outside than inside) that could be used to route a vent hose without needing to drill another hole.

 

[turbowop]

Yeah, those could be used as well. I wasn't trying to make it seem like drilling a hole was a bad thing. I was just pointing out that a hole needs to be made to run the vent tube through, be it through a grommet or the sheetmetal. I don't mind making holes, I just didn't see the need to with my sealed battery and no issues passing tech the way it is.

 

[iceman69510]

No sweat Mark, just mentioning an alternative. I have done this in two cars, without venting. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jawdrop.gif

 

[turbowop]

No sweat indeed. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/keke.gif

 

[14u2nV]

Quoting mitsuturbo:
I need to figure out how I'm going to do this, and have a kill switch that actually shuts the car off.



Will a kill switch hooked inline to the fuel pump not work (with battery in trunk and a rewire, it would be right there)? I would think that would be best as it would def kill the fuel supply, but I don't know about all those type of rules.

 

When it comes time to relocate the battery to the trunk is the little 4 fuse connector need to be moved back there with it, as in the first pics?
one of the PO's moved the Batt. to the trunk on mine but the 4 fuse connector is still in the engine bay and was frying for some reason only when the car was running of coarse...

 

[PreskitVR4]

im using this for power dist when i relocate /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[turbowop]

Quoting Ga_Sumo:
When it comes time to relocate the battery to the trunk is the little 4 fuse connector need to be moved back there with it, as in the first pics?




No.

 

cool, wonder why its frying tho..

 

[mitsuturbo]

Quoting 14u2nV:
Quoting mitsuturbo:
I need to figure out how I'm going to do this, and have a kill switch that actually shuts the car off.



Will a kill switch hooked inline to the fuel pump not work (with battery in trunk and a rewire, it would be right there)? I would think that would be best as it would def kill the fuel supply, but I don't know about all those type of rules.



It's SUPPOSED to kill the car immediately. The only way to do that is to cut ALL power. I just had another idea, actually.. and that's to use a 2nd circuit on a kill switch to kill the main MPI relay. That shouldn't be susceptible to voltage drop much if at all Since it's a RELAY. I just have to find the "signal" wire and run it back. I believe this would kill all ECU activity, including spark and fuel.