Lukefraizer
Well-known member
So tonight I relocated the battery to the trunk! However now im looking for a tray that is nice and sturdy. Anyone know of any or know of a good way to fab them?
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Battery Trunk Relocation
- Thread starter Lukefraizer
- Start date
TylerAdamson
Well-known member
Summit Racing sells quite a variety of battery boxes at different price points.
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Lukefraizer
Well-known member
sweet thanks
We used the stock tray, slightly modified. Worked great. Threw a coat of powder on it and it looks brand new. It's strapped down with the factory tie downs.
I ordered a box from summit originaly, but the thing was huge. Looks more like a tool box, so that's it's present use /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I ordered a box from summit originaly, but the thing was huge. Looks more like a tool box, so that's it's present use /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Last edited by a moderator:
The_Big_Weave
Well-known member
You can also buy a battery box at walmart for like 6 bucks.
Ian M
Well-known member
^Be mindfull if you plan to drag race though,that those cheap marine battery boxes aren't NHRA approved. Depending on how anal the tech guy is or what kind of day he's having that might be a problem.
mitsuturbo
Well-known member
You dont have to have it in a box if it's in the trunk, but you DO have to have a battery cutoff switch that KILLS THE CAR IF RUNNING. This means it has to kill the alternator output as well, so you will need a 2 circuit cutoff switch in order for everything to work right, unless you plan on disconnecting your alternator when they do tech inspection.
You're "supposed" to have the trunk sealed off from the rest of the car with a piece of sheet aluminum or metal, but as long as there's a back seat, i've never encountered any issue with the track officials letting me run with the battery simply bolted down properly. You -will- however, want to run a SEALED battery if you're not going to use a sealed battery box. If you don't you will get corrosion in the trunk, and that's definitely not a good thing!
You're "supposed" to have the trunk sealed off from the rest of the car with a piece of sheet aluminum or metal, but as long as there's a back seat, i've never encountered any issue with the track officials letting me run with the battery simply bolted down properly. You -will- however, want to run a SEALED battery if you're not going to use a sealed battery box. If you don't you will get corrosion in the trunk, and that's definitely not a good thing!
Yeah the marine boxes they make are not the best. There usually too big and let the battery move around inside. Although, there is usually a strap of some sort, its usually just to keep the lid on, and not tie down the battery.
I like the sealed battery box look. Very clean, if done correctly, and I also like the "push-off" rod for an external kill switch.
But, I had the material to make this, and saved some $ too /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
A tray like this might be a good route. I do plan to use breakers when I set up my external kill switch.(and maybe a nice cover over everything)
I will most likly use the key hole in the truck to mount the kill switch.
I like the sealed battery box look. Very clean, if done correctly, and I also like the "push-off" rod for an external kill switch.
But, I had the material to make this, and saved some $ too /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
A tray like this might be a good route. I do plan to use breakers when I set up my external kill switch.(and maybe a nice cover over everything)
I will most likly use the key hole in the truck to mount the kill switch.
bustedsm
Well-known member
Actually, you don't need a box if it's a dry cell battery.
Brunoboy
Well-known member
quick question before the topic goes bad, if you have a box in the trunk, can you use a regular battery? I had three optimas go bad on me, one was old and needed replacement,one was drained because the car wasnt used, and then i got it covered under warranty and it happened again. My box is already in the trunk mind you.
Ian M
Well-known member
NHRAonline.com tech question FAQ:
click
Quote:
I have a street car that I occasionally run at the strip. I've relocated the battery to the rear. What else do I need?
Any car with a relocated battery must be equipped with a master electrical cutoff, capable of stopping all electrical functions including ignition (must shut the engine off, as well as fuel pumps, etc.). The switch must be located on the rear of the vehicle, with the "off" position clearly marked. If the switch is of a "push / pull" type, then "push" must be the motion that shuts off the switch, and plastic or "keyed" typed switches are prohibited. Also, the battery must be completely sealed from the driver and/or driver compartment. This means a metal bulkhead must separate the trunk from the driver compartment, or the battery must be located in a sealed, metal box constructed of minimum .024 inch steel or .032 inch aluminum, or in an NHRA accepted plastic box. In cars with a conventional trunk, metal can simply be installed behind the rear seat and under the package tray to effectively seal the battery off from the driver. In a hatchback type vehicle the battery box is usually the easiest solution, since the alternative is to fabricate a bulkhead which seals to the hatch when closed. At present, Moroso is the only company which offers an NHRA accepted plastic battery box, part number 74050.
But I drive on the street. I don't want a big cut off switch hanging on the back.
This solution takes a little work, but it solves the problem. Install the master cutoff inside the vehicle, positioned "sideways" so that the toggle moves forward and back. Drill a hole in the toggle handle, and attach a steel rod that will run out the back of the car, through a hole drilled completely through one tail light assembly. Have a spare tail light assembly on hand, so when you come home from the drags, you remove the rod and put the cherry tail light back in for street cruising. Next time you plan on going to the drag strip, swap lights and reinstall the rod. Since the drilled light is for the strip only, you can also have it marked "PUSH OFF" in big letters so the Tech Inspectors will think you're cool.
click
Quote:
I have a street car that I occasionally run at the strip. I've relocated the battery to the rear. What else do I need?
Any car with a relocated battery must be equipped with a master electrical cutoff, capable of stopping all electrical functions including ignition (must shut the engine off, as well as fuel pumps, etc.). The switch must be located on the rear of the vehicle, with the "off" position clearly marked. If the switch is of a "push / pull" type, then "push" must be the motion that shuts off the switch, and plastic or "keyed" typed switches are prohibited. Also, the battery must be completely sealed from the driver and/or driver compartment. This means a metal bulkhead must separate the trunk from the driver compartment, or the battery must be located in a sealed, metal box constructed of minimum .024 inch steel or .032 inch aluminum, or in an NHRA accepted plastic box. In cars with a conventional trunk, metal can simply be installed behind the rear seat and under the package tray to effectively seal the battery off from the driver. In a hatchback type vehicle the battery box is usually the easiest solution, since the alternative is to fabricate a bulkhead which seals to the hatch when closed. At present, Moroso is the only company which offers an NHRA accepted plastic battery box, part number 74050.
But I drive on the street. I don't want a big cut off switch hanging on the back.
This solution takes a little work, but it solves the problem. Install the master cutoff inside the vehicle, positioned "sideways" so that the toggle moves forward and back. Drill a hole in the toggle handle, and attach a steel rod that will run out the back of the car, through a hole drilled completely through one tail light assembly. Have a spare tail light assembly on hand, so when you come home from the drags, you remove the rod and put the cherry tail light back in for street cruising. Next time you plan on going to the drag strip, swap lights and reinstall the rod. Since the drilled light is for the strip only, you can also have it marked "PUSH OFF" in big letters so the Tech Inspectors will think you're cool.
Last edited:
toybreaker
iconoclast
- Joined
- Apr 30, 2006
- Messages
- 3,581
Quoting brunoboy:
quick question before the topic goes bad, if you have a box in the trunk, can you use a regular battery? My box is already in the trunk mind you.
It's important to note that conventional lead acid batteries produce hydrogen gas during the charge cycle, and they must be vented to outside the vehicle
Those vapors are extremely flamable, in addition to being corrosive as hell.
moral to the story vent your battery outside the car
quick question before the topic goes bad, if you have a box in the trunk, can you use a regular battery? My box is already in the trunk mind you.
It's important to note that conventional lead acid batteries produce hydrogen gas during the charge cycle, and they must be vented to outside the vehicle
Those vapors are extremely flamable, in addition to being corrosive as hell.
moral to the story vent your battery outside the car
SmoothCustomer
Well-known member
FlyingEagle
Staff member
Quoting toybreaker:
Quoting brunoboy:
quick question before the topic goes bad, if you have a box in the trunk, can you use a regular battery? My box is already in the trunk mind you.
It's important to note that conventional lead acid batteries produce hydrogen gas during the charge cycle, and they must be vented to outside the vehicle
Those vapors are extremely flamable, in addition to being corrosive as hell.
moral to the story vent your battery outside the car
Colt C53A.
Vented, bolted in with 3/8 threaded rod through 1" square tubing, down through the rear frame channels and yes, it takes up too much space.
Pardon the mess, and the baby seat strap which was part of my reason for making this as safe as possible. Now I fully realize I have no cutoff switch and moreover, a full shutoff for the starter circuit, fuel pump, and charging circuits, and a full panel to keep the rear hatch area fully contained in the event of an accident. I would not trust small threaded rod (factory tie downs) in a serious accident, whereby passengers may be meeting a large object inside the cabin. I have survived a decent front end collision but that battery was almost crushed in place, versus possibly being tossed about the cabin. The way it is installed, it doesn't add more than a few pounds of metal, it vents on the opposite side of the muffler exit point (probably wouldn't be enough fume to ignite anything with a vehicle moving/flame out the pipe anyways! hehe)
Whatever people do with this thread, please install the largest possible power wire, use good connectors, and have a good ground - with clean metal exposed. No charging issues on this car - PERIOD. The volts you read at the battery post are identical at the alternator, and also being read by the ECU via pocketlogger. I have used 4 awg wiring or larger (2 awg for the starter circuit) to run for the alternator and related charging circuits. All those tiny stock wires are now gone, and so is the corrosion that was more than lightly settled into them (ground at the base of the stock battery box to the frame). I updated my post after Curtis posted below, because it is safe to say that my pictures did not tell the whole picture. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
Quoting brunoboy:
quick question before the topic goes bad, if you have a box in the trunk, can you use a regular battery? My box is already in the trunk mind you.
It's important to note that conventional lead acid batteries produce hydrogen gas during the charge cycle, and they must be vented to outside the vehicle
Those vapors are extremely flamable, in addition to being corrosive as hell.
moral to the story vent your battery outside the car
Colt C53A.
Vented, bolted in with 3/8 threaded rod through 1" square tubing, down through the rear frame channels and yes, it takes up too much space.
Pardon the mess, and the baby seat strap which was part of my reason for making this as safe as possible. Now I fully realize I have no cutoff switch and moreover, a full shutoff for the starter circuit, fuel pump, and charging circuits, and a full panel to keep the rear hatch area fully contained in the event of an accident. I would not trust small threaded rod (factory tie downs) in a serious accident, whereby passengers may be meeting a large object inside the cabin. I have survived a decent front end collision but that battery was almost crushed in place, versus possibly being tossed about the cabin. The way it is installed, it doesn't add more than a few pounds of metal, it vents on the opposite side of the muffler exit point (probably wouldn't be enough fume to ignite anything with a vehicle moving/flame out the pipe anyways! hehe)
Whatever people do with this thread, please install the largest possible power wire, use good connectors, and have a good ground - with clean metal exposed. No charging issues on this car - PERIOD. The volts you read at the battery post are identical at the alternator, and also being read by the ECU via pocketlogger. I have used 4 awg wiring or larger (2 awg for the starter circuit) to run for the alternator and related charging circuits. All those tiny stock wires are now gone, and so is the corrosion that was more than lightly settled into them (ground at the base of the stock battery box to the frame). I updated my post after Curtis posted below, because it is safe to say that my pictures did not tell the whole picture. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
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I made this (originally in aluminum, but later remade in steel to handle the weight) then bolted the box down to it.
mitsuturbo
Well-known member
Ian M. stated it perfectly with his quote. This is the exact information i went by when i did my trunk mount in 1411. I raced sporadically (and slow) enough that there was never an issue with me not having things walled off with sheet metal. Your track officials may care more about this, and be more "sticklers" about it. My experience was that if it was a street car, they'd let it slide provided the factory seat and rear deck was completely intact. If your rear seat was out or the "package tray" were not intact, they'd send people home saying they needed to have sh*t walled off properly.
curtis
Well-known member
Quoting SmoothCustomer:
Somebody (curtis) should make trays with tie downs that mount conveniently in the trunk for dry cell batteries like this: Click
I would but not to many people like those lawnmower batteries. I being one of them. Track car may be fine but I know of 3 or 4 cars that had those little turds and always had weirdo problems. One was a bumped compression evo with a buch of upgrades. Had drivibility issues as well as starting problems. sad when you have a 40K+ evo and makes over 700 to the tires but can't start and burnt up 2 factory starters before he realized I was right. Put in the big red top and has zero problems.
Now for the guys with batteries in the trunk or guys planning on putting them there.
Please for the love of God run another cable from the ground back up front. To optimize an electrical system for a stereo people will run huge fricking wires from there battery to the amp but leave the stock wires on the battery and even smaller wires from the alternator. But will put an upgrade alternator on. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif Think use the brain . /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
Best way to do it is take on of those screw in lugs from auto zone that go in the side post gm batteries. Find a hole with a nut welded on the backside of the firewall or fender well and drill out and re tap to that size. Then for the 12volt pos buy a distribution block/bus from a stereo shop that has a piece of phenolic resin or heavy teflon/abs to separate from ground. Get all this mounted nice then start running cable.
First huge 2-0 from distribution block to starter. Then another factory cable or a huge from alternator to little fuse block piece on the top of your battery now. I think there's 2 or 3 fuses on that piece. Now run a huge cable from the 12 volt block in the inter fender well through the big rubber plug up next to the top of the door and into the car. Run this down under the carpet and around the corner of the backseat into the truck corner.
Next is the ground side. Run it from the battery to thew trunk floor and find a place to connect it. Then forward stopping at any and every bolt hole you can find until you hit the side post deal you bolted on. You can daisy chain them or find the crimp on lugs that can be opened up and just strip out a section of insulation and attach as you go. Now that its upfront get a ton of ground wires or one of those kits on ebay and run grounds everywhere. Don't forget the t body, trans, cas, head, intake manifold, valve cover, mount next to the alternator. Etc.
Reason being is copper flows about 7 or 8 times the amount of current than iron or steel. The guys with a battery in the trunk and only a ground to the floor are hurting gas mileage, giving weirdo problems and not optimizing the system. cause back there you have one thin piece of sheetmetal with maybe 10 spot welds and a ton of seem sealer to flow around.
If you want to not believe me and aren't scared to do math click below. Maybe that will change your mind.
resistivity click me
By just adding a bunch of ground wires. My wifes Honda passport picked up 3mpg on the interstate and her next truck the xterra picked up almost 2mpg. Now the VR4 didn't matter but I did see alot faster starting, better driviblity and alot of idle wub wubs went away when I did all mine.
Anymore to this you could had a big circuit breaker, battery cut offs, then larger wires to fuel pumps and hidden switches going to the fuel pump relay, ignition transistor, etc as an anti thief device.
As for the wire bigger is better but don't get home wiring with 8 or 10 strands get welding cable from a farm supply or some of the sexy oxygen free stereo cable. I used stereo stuff mainly because I had it. The city had an auction and I was helping them by cleaning out the cars. The cops got sick of me bringing them more and more stuff to log in as the setup day went by so they told me to throw it all away. I had the trunk of the vr4 full of drug dealer stereo install kits as well as 4 amps one being a memphis bell class d. Lets here it for law enforcement. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif
EBAY LINK for ground kits
Somebody (curtis) should make trays with tie downs that mount conveniently in the trunk for dry cell batteries like this: Click
I would but not to many people like those lawnmower batteries. I being one of them. Track car may be fine but I know of 3 or 4 cars that had those little turds and always had weirdo problems. One was a bumped compression evo with a buch of upgrades. Had drivibility issues as well as starting problems. sad when you have a 40K+ evo and makes over 700 to the tires but can't start and burnt up 2 factory starters before he realized I was right. Put in the big red top and has zero problems.
Now for the guys with batteries in the trunk or guys planning on putting them there.
Please for the love of God run another cable from the ground back up front. To optimize an electrical system for a stereo people will run huge fricking wires from there battery to the amp but leave the stock wires on the battery and even smaller wires from the alternator. But will put an upgrade alternator on. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif Think use the brain . /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
Best way to do it is take on of those screw in lugs from auto zone that go in the side post gm batteries. Find a hole with a nut welded on the backside of the firewall or fender well and drill out and re tap to that size. Then for the 12volt pos buy a distribution block/bus from a stereo shop that has a piece of phenolic resin or heavy teflon/abs to separate from ground. Get all this mounted nice then start running cable.
First huge 2-0 from distribution block to starter. Then another factory cable or a huge from alternator to little fuse block piece on the top of your battery now. I think there's 2 or 3 fuses on that piece. Now run a huge cable from the 12 volt block in the inter fender well through the big rubber plug up next to the top of the door and into the car. Run this down under the carpet and around the corner of the backseat into the truck corner.
Next is the ground side. Run it from the battery to thew trunk floor and find a place to connect it. Then forward stopping at any and every bolt hole you can find until you hit the side post deal you bolted on. You can daisy chain them or find the crimp on lugs that can be opened up and just strip out a section of insulation and attach as you go. Now that its upfront get a ton of ground wires or one of those kits on ebay and run grounds everywhere. Don't forget the t body, trans, cas, head, intake manifold, valve cover, mount next to the alternator. Etc.
Reason being is copper flows about 7 or 8 times the amount of current than iron or steel. The guys with a battery in the trunk and only a ground to the floor are hurting gas mileage, giving weirdo problems and not optimizing the system. cause back there you have one thin piece of sheetmetal with maybe 10 spot welds and a ton of seem sealer to flow around.
If you want to not believe me and aren't scared to do math click below. Maybe that will change your mind.
resistivity click me
By just adding a bunch of ground wires. My wifes Honda passport picked up 3mpg on the interstate and her next truck the xterra picked up almost 2mpg. Now the VR4 didn't matter but I did see alot faster starting, better driviblity and alot of idle wub wubs went away when I did all mine.
Anymore to this you could had a big circuit breaker, battery cut offs, then larger wires to fuel pumps and hidden switches going to the fuel pump relay, ignition transistor, etc as an anti thief device.
As for the wire bigger is better but don't get home wiring with 8 or 10 strands get welding cable from a farm supply or some of the sexy oxygen free stereo cable. I used stereo stuff mainly because I had it. The city had an auction and I was helping them by cleaning out the cars. The cops got sick of me bringing them more and more stuff to log in as the setup day went by so they told me to throw it all away. I had the trunk of the vr4 full of drug dealer stereo install kits as well as 4 amps one being a memphis bell class d. Lets here it for law enforcement. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif
EBAY LINK for ground kits
Struc
Well-known member
I bought some Hobart 4AWG Welding cable to use for my grounding. It's good quality stuff, and not priced too outrageous.
Amazon link to Hobart welding cable
Amazon sells 2awg stuff as well.
Amazon link to Hobart welding cable
Amazon sells 2awg stuff as well.
NickDromez
Well-known member
Quoting brunoboy:
quick question before the topic goes bad, if you have a box in the trunk, can you use a regular battery? I had three optimas go bad on me, one was old and needed replacement,one was drained because the car wasnt used, and then i got it covered under warranty and it happened again. My box is already in the trunk mind you.
Brunoboy, before u keep buying new batterys I highly suggest getting rid of the 4gauge wire and start running full 0 gauge to the engine bay. Makes a huge difference.
quick question before the topic goes bad, if you have a box in the trunk, can you use a regular battery? I had three optimas go bad on me, one was old and needed replacement,one was drained because the car wasnt used, and then i got it covered under warranty and it happened again. My box is already in the trunk mind you.
Brunoboy, before u keep buying new batterys I highly suggest getting rid of the 4gauge wire and start running full 0 gauge to the engine bay. Makes a huge difference.
Found picture of the steel support tray I made.
