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ball joints stuck

gtluke

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dirty jersey
does this whole thread not contain the phrase "go buy a pickle fork"?
wtf, how do you guys not all have one?
go buy one at harbor freight
BJWU_pickle%20fork%20lower.jpg
 

91GSR

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but a pickle fork will destroy the boot and thats just one more thing i will ahve to replace. im trying to do this without spending any money if possible
 

Quoting 91GSR:
kenny u arent understanding...i am taking the control arm out...i am already buying new ones from rock auto...the problem i am having is getting the ball joint out of the wheel hub, not the control arm. i have the nut unthreaded, but not all the way...and its stuck in there. i have taken a hammer to it and soaked it with blaster...but it wont come out. doesnt matter if i have a new control arm with ball joints or if i get the ball joint out of the control arm because its stuck in the wheel hub...



This says you are already buying new ones so why would you care if you tear the boot of an old worn out ball joint??
 

Wow i never even thoguht about the fact that a new ball joint would come with a new boot lol. I Was just going to suggest buying a new boot from like autozone or something. I could have sworn that i heard they sold like a universal one or something.
 

91GSR

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because the ones im taking out of the vr4 are goin onto the gsr. i need to keep them in good shape since the gsr is my daily driver. basically i bent the ones on the gsr so instead of getting new ones to put on a car i really dont care about, im jus gonna get new ones for the vr4 and take the old ones off and put them on the gsr
 

Kenny_Kline

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Wtf??? LOL does anyone else think this thread is confusing from the start?

Listen, I dont know what your trying to accomplish but it sounds like your working half ass backwards. So your going to take the ball joints out of the gvr4 and put them in your gsr because the ones in your gsr are no good? So why dont you leave the ball joints alone in the gvr4 and put new ones in the gsr? I really dont get what your doing. Ball joints are a safety thing. Dont hack or cheap on on parts like this. If you need new ball joints in the gvr4, replace the whole control arm.. it will save you time in the long run. If you need new ball joints in the gsr, you should do the same thing there too. I am saying this because you cant even figure out how to separate a ball joint from the hub never mind get a ball joint out safely from a control arm.
 

fivestardsm

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Not that saving money is a bad thing, but I would have to say concidering the fact that you are dealing with a very important part of the steering, which can lead to death and distruction, you might just want to get new ones.

I worked in a junk yard for over 10 years, and although we would sell the complete controlarm assembly off from cars, it was illegal to sell any steering/suspension joint. We walways "disclaimer" that new one would have to be installed for legall and warranty purpouses.

I can not even begin to tell you how many cars that I pulled out of the ditch and off from trees because a ball joint failed. It always seemed that they failed while stopping/taking off. ( because of the suspension loading/unloading)

Just saying...
 
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91GSR

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ok...from the start people have been thinkin this issue began with ball joints. it didnt. i need to get the ball joints out of the vr4 so i can mov the control arms over to the gsr. there is nothing wrong with any ball joints anywhere except that the ones on the vr4 are stuck in the wheel hub. i know its an important part etc etc...but the ones in the vr4 arent in bad shape at all, i would just prefer to put new parts onto a car that i care about than a daily driver that i beat the sh*t out of da in and day out. the ball joints are good people. theres nothing wrong with any ofd them, the ones on the gsr or the vr4. the CONTROL ARMS are bent on the gsr so im taking the whole assembly out of the vr4 and transferring it over. that way i dont have to change any ball joints anywhere because i know thats a PITA...everyone undertsand now...

BTW it has been explained earlier in the thread that the ball joints are not being replaced or even taken out of the control arm...but that im transferring the control arms...
 

Kenny_Kline

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yep... I am in the towing business and pick up numerous cars for broken ball joints and tie rods. Tie rods famous for breaking on ford pick ups and ball joints famous for breaking on crown vics. Its not limited to these cars but more popular. Its not a fun thing to see. I have pulled people out of the woods, off curbs, rollovers, etc all because people are to damn cheap to fix there car correctly. Its one thing to have a leaky radiator, its another to have a bad ball joint. We are talking about safety. How much is your life worth? Ball joints go for about 20 bucks each brand new. I can flip my couch cushion and scrap that money together. Borrow money from someone. Put it on a credit card. Today is friday, pay day! Your saying you cant afford to put aside 40 bucks for your life?

sh*t makes no sense.
 

toybreaker

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edit, I'm lost, too /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif
 
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fivestardsm

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Quoting 91GSR:
ok...from the start people have been thinkin this issue began with ball joints. it didnt. i need to get the ball joints out of the vr4 so i can mov the control arms over to the gsr. there is nothing wrong with any ball joints anywhere except that the ones on the vr4 are stuck in the wheel hub. i know its an important part etc etc...but the ones in the vr4 arent in bad shape at all, i would just prefer to put new parts onto a car that i care about than a daily driver that i beat the sh*t out of da in and day out. the ball joints are good people. theres nothing wrong with any ofd them, the ones on the gsr or the vr4. the CONTROL ARMS are bent on the gsr so im taking the whole assembly out of the vr4 and transferring it over. that way i dont have to change any ball joints anywhere because i know thats a PITA...everyone undertsand now...

BTW it has been explained earlier in the thread that the ball joints are not being replaced or even taken out of the control arm...but that im transferring the control arms...



Well I will have to appolgize for the misunderstanding but I was just trying to give my advice, although a little off subject, it still pretained. But, if you are going to put the used joint in a car that you drive everyday and beat the shiut out of, wouldn't you want to make sure it dosent break?

As for getting the joint loose, I can only speak for my self, but I undbolt the axle, the caliper, and the strut and then while holding (pulling up) on to the spindle at the strut mounting flange, I hit the base of the spindle where the joint goes through (i.e. the pic above) This will usually work in 1 or 2 hits at most. Could be worse for you, but hey its a learning experience.
Also,concerning the PITA on the changing of the joints, I think it took me an hour last time I changed both of mine. you'll also get the chance to see how to do it when you get the replacement arms for the VR4 if those are going to be on the GSR.

One more question tho, is your GSR a SOHC or the DOHC N/A?

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
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CP

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I just ordered new Moog ball joints for my Ram today for close to $300. There is ALOT of play in them, and they make lots of noise right now. I'm all set with losing a front wheel, so these are getting replaced ASAP. The truck should be good to go for towing season after this.
 

91GSR

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its a DOHC NA 4g63. and the control arms are exactly the same. i looked up part numbers. i looked everything over before i started tearing into it just to make sure. why would they be different. the front suspension is the same on both cars. both have abs, both have the same front struts, theres nothing different but the 4ws and that doesnt have anything to do with the control arm...
 

prove_it

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Sioux Falls, SD
I've been a tech in the field for years, BFH all it takes. loosen the ball joint nut, but only loosen it two to three turns so that you dont beat the threads by accident. then put a jack under the brake rotor and apply just a bit of pressure it doesn't need much. then use your BFH not a deadblow hammer, deadblow hammers don't have the weight needed, use a 20oz hammer. you want to hit the knuckle right where the ball joint stud goes through the knuckle. it may take around 5-10 good hits, but it will release. the shock will jar the metal enough to loosen any rust and "pop" the stud out. no damage done to anything, fully reusable. Not to mention it's a great way to let out some anger... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 

14u2nV

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Jul 22, 2004
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Agency/St. Joe, MO
Quoting toybreaker:


Long bar, pry down.

Hammer, hit knuckle.



This works best. Just smack it a few times where I have the X and it will pop off.



 
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