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Anyone running Water/Alky Injection?

quote:Originally posted by Pivvay:
hehe good catch Jeff. I actually ordered the wrong hobbs switch the first time since they do come in NO and NC varieties! Ooops. The part number posted should be the right one though. You CAN use either NO or NC, the realay just needs to be wired accordingly.

But the power has to be switached to the pump and relay though. Maybe not the best way to do it....
 

I wanted the normally open one so I could just stick it inline with the switched power feed on the relay. Then at my boost level it would finish the circuit and as long as the master switch was up it would switch the relay and turn on the pump.
 

That works if you can easily get to the inside to screw it in. Mine is in a non-accessible place so it helps to have the aquamist. Plus it's out of the airflow stream.
 

quote:Originally posted by Sledge:
What's the frequency and current draw on the Aquamist solenoid?

I've got a bunch of LM1942 drivers laying around in a box somewhere. They're not as nice as the NLA Cherry drivers (they need more external parts), but still pretty beefy. I can try and dig one or two and mail 'em to you if you want, Jeff.
Actually, I've already got that part handled, I think. I'm using a P-channel MOSFET driver, but those injector drivers would probably work fine too. The important thing is not to load down the ECU injector output. Plus, I needed a device that would take a low output (ground) and turn on. I'm not sure if those devices work that way. The Aquamist highspeed solenoid is around 12 ohms, so it draws about an amp. It can work well beyond the frequency injectors go to, according to Aquamist.
 

quote:Originally posted by Pivvay:
hobbs switch = adjustable pressure switch. switch is close until X psi of boost then it opens, wa la!
grin.gif
Actually, the Hobbs switch works just the opposite: it is OPEN until X boost, and the contacts close, activating the pump or solenoid once you hit the appropriate boost pressure you have dialed in. The Aquamist switch does work the other way.
I'm running the Shurflo 100psi pump, with a 7mm and a 4mm jet. I now am using the Aquamist highspeed solenoid, and have developed an injector driver for it, so it will inject more water as your injector pulsewidth rises. When you do this, you also need to raise your jet sizes, so I have another 7mm to replace the 4mm. Now, if I only had the time to install and test the driver circuit.
frown.gif
 

quote:Originally posted by keydiver:
quote:Originally posted by Sledge:
What's the frequency and current draw on the Aquamist solenoid?

I've got a bunch of LM1942 drivers laying around in a box somewhere. They're not as nice as the NLA Cherry drivers (they need more external parts), but still pretty beefy. I can try and dig one or two and mail 'em to you if you want, Jeff.
Actually, I've already got that part handled, I think. I'm using a P-channel MOSFET driver, but those injector drivers would probably work fine too. The important thing is not to load down the ECU injector output. Plus, I needed a device that would take a low output (ground) and turn on. I'm not sure if those devices work that way. The Aquamist highspeed solenoid is around 12 ohms, so it draws about an amp. It can work well beyond the frequency injectors go to, according to Aquamist.
So you're going saturated coil, not peak and hold? Make sure you have a good shunt diode. We saw some major back EMF spikes when building driver circuits for some injectors -- I'm talking KV -- when field collapsed. It amazing how much inductance those coil windings can have.

Damn it, I need to get off my butt and finish those EPROM emulator and 3D-mapped WI projects.
smile.gif
 
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