Quoting FlyingEagle:
Make sure the the coolant tests strong, no wicked acidity.
Also the grounds straps need to be in place from each bank head to the corresponding frame rail.
This with time, is what mainly killed the head gaskets, other than overheating.
Double check the seams along the bottom of the head for any coolant and or oil leakage.
Also drive the car in a very tight circle, and at 40-50kmh after a few circles to make sure the front axle cup outers are not
loose and causing clicking, or snappy, and to confirm the inner axle cups are not seized/seizing. Inner cups cause a vibration much like tire imabalance.
If you have a rear bearing noise upon test drive (very evident grind with the older interiors on Subaru), suspect taking apart the rear knuckles to press out
the bearing. They use a long bolt across the bottom that can leave you stuck if the car is at all rusty. Machine shop stuck after taking the rear subframe stuck .....
This is the where you need to know how rusty those long trailing arm bolts are, and what every else is creeping up in short order.
I've had a few runins with the older rear bearings ............ I avoid touching them like the plague! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif
Other than that, should be a blast!
Thanks for that info! I ended up buying the Subaru for $700 with and exhaust leak. Body isn't pretty at all, was side swiped (not bad but you can notice it) but it drives like a dream. No shakes at 60+mph, goes in a straight line when you let go of wheel, no leaks anywhere, clutch and break work fine, car feels solid and doesn't bounce so suspension is great- overall I'm happy with the purchase and ride of the subi (drove it two hours home)
Would post more but this isn't a subi forum haha but the car looks worse in person. It won't let me upload the video of the close ups but trust me the body . . . lets just say you can definitely call it a beater car lol